Need help

[Alexander41900]

So I got a predator that’s built but am wondering how much power does a fuel pump give you if any at all

 

[pearl111]

What size motor, do you know what all has been done to the motor?

 

[Denny]

A fuel pump gives you no extra power. If you are having a fuel delivery problem on the top end or your tank is lower than the carburetor, then you may need a fuel pump.

 

[Alexander41900]

What size motor, do you know what all has been done to the motor?

Hemi 212 he wants 350 for it 30 hours on it but 0 hours on refresh all new bearings I was just curious if I could make more power is this a good deal and how much you think it makes

 

[panchothedog]

Add says $550. You couldn't buy a new engine and build it for that price. Stock gas tank works fine, no need for a fuel pump. Your making 11.5 - 13 hp.

 

[panchothedog]

Don't run a stock predator muffler on that set up. You would lose 1/2 of what you had gained power wise. It needs a straight pipe with a performance muffler.

 

[madprofessor]

Links below are for a brand new hemi and those main upgrades brand new for what you are looking at above, $419 with warranties.......
6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine, EPA (harborfreight.com)
ARC Billet Alum Rod (3.328"+.020) Predator 212cc Read for Application | eBay
Slip Stream Billet Flywheel,3.3 lbs, Fits Predator Hem 60363, Karts,Mini Bikes | eBay
Predator 212cc Hem 60363 Mod 2 Cam And Spring Kit #2 Kart Racing,,Mini Bikes | eBay
Predator 212cc Performance Gasket Set,Fits Hem 60363 Engines(Best on the Market) | eBay
Predator 212cc / Hond Clone 196cc Hi Perf Jetting Kit for Std Gas | eBay
Didn't include the things that don't make it go faster, like the valves and retainers, catch can, pushrods...............nor the Mikuni carb since OEM carb with the bigger jet kit above would be fine, the clutch since I'd advise using a CVT instead, piston since the flattop is stock anyway, or performance intake since the ad doesn't list one.
Value of the fun building it: $Priceless..............Value of it already built by someone: $Hoo nose ennyway.

 

[panchothedog]

engine warranties are long gone once you split those cases, much less adding after market parts. Makuni carburetor, stainless valves, chrome molly push rods are still needed to match what is being advertised. Not trying to defend the seller, just trying to complete the list. Also forgot the juggernaut. I have one on the hottest kart I own. Good rugged piece. No regrets.

 

[madprofessor]

engine warranties are long gone once you split those cases

Definitely correct, so most folks would advise starting up and fully breaking in a new Predator as is from Harbor Freight. If all goes well through the break-in period, you can feel reasonably confident that there's no internal issues serious enough to need a motor exchange under warranty. That's when you can order aftermarket hotrod parts and start building your beast. Any problems with that would be attributed to the new parts, as the motor would already be considered reliable.
Those Juggernaut clutches, my understanding is that their higher stall speed is the best thing about them, followed by having a good solid engagement. Never heard anybody say that having those attributes is worth their fairly high cost, but then that should only depend on what performance you want to get from it and what that's worth to you.
I don't wish to short-sell having a spare carb and having tougher (chromoly and stainless) parts and having split spring keepers. Just don't want to get myself caught up in the talking of increases in horses or torque when all I really mean is they're higher quality parts. It is true though, that if a motor is modded with a different head and other stuff that will send it well past 7.2K rpm, then those chromoly and stainless parts become an actual requirement if you're not planning on just building a grenade.

 

[Alexander41900]

Add says $550. You couldn't buy a new engine and build it for that price. Stock gas tank works fine, no need for a fuel pump. Your making 11.5 - 13 hp.

I got him down to 350 and I’ve got a trumpet headed off my race kart

 

[Alexander41900]

Definitely correct, so most folks would advise starting up and fully breaking in a new Predator as is from Harbor Freight. If all goes well through the break-in period, you can feel reasonably confident that there's no internal issues serious enough to need a motor exchange under warranty. That's when you can order aftermarket hotrod parts and start building your beast. Any problems with that would be attributed to the new parts, as the motor would already be considered reliable.
Those Juggernaut clutches, my understanding is that their higher stall speed is the best thing about them, followed by having a good solid engagement. Never heard anybody say that having those attributes is worth their fairly high cost, but then that should only depend on what performance you want to get from it and what that's worth to you.
I don't wish to short-sell having a spare carb and having tougher (chromoly and stainless) parts and having split spring keepers. Just don't want to get myself caught up in the talking of increases in horses or torque when all I really mean is they're higher quality parts. It is true though, that if a motor is modded with a different head and other stuff that will send it well past 7.2K rpm, then those chromoly and stainless parts become an actual requirement if you're not planning on just building a grenade.

So I plan on running it on my race kart chassis and I’m very heavy footed what else do I need to do to it

 

[madprofessor]

Anybody chime in here.............Ad above says the (crank?) bearings, a rod bearing, and pushrods are new. My thought is that those are all parts that don't require a break-in period. Rings, wrist pins, cams, all yes on a break-in. But the round stuff and pushrods? Don't want to tell anybody wrong about that wear, what do y'all say?

 

[panchothedog]

from the add it has most all the right parts for a mid modified motor. Run it under a load ( like on your kart while driving it ) at various RPM for 20-30 minutes, don't hold it wide open more than a couple of seconds, then back off a bit then mid range. Stay away from keeping it at the same rpm during this period. After that you should be ready to go. Another part that won't make you go any faster but is great CHEAP insurance for reliability especially in the higher rpm range is a set of CHAMPION shaft mounted rockers. Anywhere that sells any of the other hop up parts in your engine will have them. $25-30 and they help keep everything up top much more stable compared to the stock stamped rocker arms.

 

[Alexander41900]

Anybody chime in here.............Ad above says the (crank?) bearings, a rod bearing, and pushrods are new. My thought is that those are all parts that don't require a break-in period. Rings, wrist pins, cams, all yes on a break-in. But the round stuff and pushrods? Don't want to tell anybody wrong about that wear, what do y'all say?

It’s got a few hours on it it’s only got all new bearings

 

[Alexander41900]

from the add it has most all the right parts for a mid modified motor. Run it under a load ( like on your kart while driving it ) at various RPM for 20-30 minutes, don't hold it wide open more than a couple of seconds, then back off a bit then mid range. Stay away from keeping it at the same rpm during this period. After that you should be ready to go. Another part that won't make you go any faster but is great CHEAP insurance for reliability especially in the higher rpm range is a set of CHAMPION shaft mounted rockers. Anywhere that sells any of the other hop up parts in your engine will have them. $25-30 and they help keep everything up top much more stable compared to the stock stamped rocker arms.

Mind if you give me information to contact you I’d like to ask some questions

 

[Alexander41900]

from the add it has most all the right parts for a mid modified motor. Run it under a load ( like on your kart while driving it ) at various RPM for 20-30 minutes, don't hold it wide open more than a couple of seconds, then back off a bit then mid range. Stay away from keeping it at the same rpm during this period. After that you should be ready to go. Another part that won't make you go any faster but is great CHEAP insurance for reliability especially in the higher rpm range is a set of CHAMPION shaft mounted rockers. Anywhere that sells any of the other hop up parts in your engine will have them. $25-30 and they help keep everything up top much more stable compared to the stock stamped rocker arms.

Mind if you give me information to contact you I’d like to ask some questions

from the add it has most all the right parts for a mid modified motor. Run it under a load ( like on your kart while driving it ) at various RPM for 20-30 minutes, don't hold it wide open more than a couple of seconds, then back off a bit then mid range. Stay away from keeping it at the same rpm during this period. After that you should be ready to go. Another part that won't make you go any faster but is great CHEAP insurance for reliability especially in the higher rpm range is a set of CHAMPION shaft mounted rockers. Anywhere that sells any of the other hop up parts in your engine will have them. $25-30 and they help keep everything up top much more stable compared to the stock stamped rocker arms.

what type of power you think it makes

 

[NubsWithGuns]

What size motor, do you know what all has been done to the motor?

Irrelevant to the question and the answer is none.

 

[panchothedog]

I think with the modifications stated in the add you would be around 11.5 to around 13 hp. You can ask me anything you want and I will try my best to give you my opinion. I am not a professional, just someone who knows a bit about engines in general and have built 4 predators and 2 196cc clone motors on the parts 2 years. You can post your questions hear or if you want to e-mail me at
williamlongaker@gmail.com

 

[madprofessor]

what type of power you think it makes

I'll agree with pancho at only 11.5 - 13hp., because some simple upgrades aren't mentioned..................
The new billet rod isn't specified as over-length to increase compression. The billet flywheel would have a mild magnet placement for timing advance, but no advance key to raise that higher is mentioned. Some mild ratio rockers to get the valves open further isn't mentioned, would help it also. While the spare Mikuni has a jet increase, ad doesn't say if the carb on the engine has it also as main and/or low jets. (My setup has .036 main / .022 low.)

 

[Alexander41900]

I'll agree with pancho at only 11.5 - 13hp., because some simple upgrades aren't mentioned..................
The new billet rod isn't specified as over-length to increase compression. The billet flywheel would have a mild magnet placement for timing advance, but no advance key to raise that higher is mentioned. Some mild ratio rockers to get the valves open further isn't mentioned, would help it also. While the spare Mikuni has a jet increase, ad doesn't say if the carb on the engine has it also as main and/or low jets. (My setup has .036 main / .022 low.)

Thanks man is there anything I absolutely need to make sure it stays alive I got a heavy foot lol