need help with go kart

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jandj

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Sid's right, that's the same kart I did for the Grandkids. There are (or were, if they aren't still there I'll repost or e mail them to you) pics in the thread he mentioned. Member Blaz is the Manco guru, he id'd it as an early 80's Quicksilver. It came w/ a 12" black plastic steering wheel.As for brakes, I find the scrubs fine on a yard kart, early race karts had scrubs.With a dead axle a band brake is about your only other option. If I can be of any help let me know. One thing about the cool looking wheels that came stock - they can go for up to $50 each on evilbait but there are a million of them out there and an "I need..." post on the various kart sites will usually yield them at a better price. The stock rear on the drive side needs an adaptor that Manco made, check with Blaz for his family kart business, they usually have Manco stuff. Feel free to ask for any help but it looks like you have most of what you need. My advice is get rid of the cage. It makes the kart look bad and IMHO it doesn't do anything unless you go end over end which is a rare occurance. Standard kart rule is cage-belts, no cage-no belts. Always wear a helmet and a neck collar is cheap protection. Good luck!
 

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Here's the Lo Buck special.
I had to add an adapter plate to mount the clone to keep the stock tank from hitting the seat while adjusting the chain.The front bumper was mangled so I used a KG race kart bumper and narrowed it.
Mama did the seat.
 

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Here's what it morphed into after the Grandkids parent's split and they moved to Pa.
Too much motor, too narrow and high off the ground, no real steering geometry.....which means, yeah, I dumped it!
That's what led to the current Rupp Superdart retore.
Second son now married, Lo Buck awaits future grandkid pilot and will go back to it's previous incarnation!
 

jandj

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Here's what it looked like after I rescued it from the flea market.Below that is me and my first kart, yes, we are at a go kart track!


 

William English

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that pic is very cool i see what needs to be done i will be posting pics and will be in need of advice this is the site to be i am glad i found this site thank you so much i will need to change the tires back the back has turf savers they were on when we got it they are tubeless but i bet the correct ones have tubes and some how the brakes are all backwards even the rod to adjust them is on wrong this will be a great project to do thanks again
 

itsid

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the rims are 4 and 5... not six ;)

4.10/3.50-5 on the rear (that much you can almost read on the tire) and
what seems to be something like 4.10/3.50-4 on the front
(maybe even larger dia. but that'd match the Kenda they sell at northerntool ;))

'sid
 

jandj

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Sid's spot on on the original tire size, same size for knobbies or slicks. I recommend knobbies for all around use. It's my experience that slicks give more grip than you need under hard cornering. If you do go with slicks run about 30 psi in them, that'll allow you to slide the kart easier....which in turn keeps all 4 wheels on the ground and you from lying on your *** in the dirt 5 feet away from your kart!
 

jandj

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About the brakes - the scrubs are (or should be) "paddles" welded onto a bar. You're gonna have to cut the old ones off and weld new ones on. Not a big deal at all. You can probably cut 'em with the same grinder wheel you're gonna smooth the weld out before you attach the new ones. In a pinch you can have someone hold one side while you hacksaw the old ones off and use a metal file to smooth the weld. Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, etc will have small pieces of metal to use for new paddles. Again, you can clamp 'em in a vise and hacksaw/file to shape if you don't have cutting tools.
 

William English

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Ok I really took a good look at the kart today the cage is not factory and who ever put in on moved it back toward the seat will be cutting the cage off and will have to weld it back where it should be you guys are great thank you
 

William English

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i need to order new wheel bearings for this kart i pulled them apart today and they are chain bearings they dont look like wheel bearings the have no edge on them can anyone recommend some good wheel bearings and if they should have a edge so when you tighten the wheel they spin free also where is a good place to get them at a good price they look like 5/8 in.
 

Half-breeder

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I didnt realize it till now... Your kart is the same as my 'other' kart:lolgoku:... looked bigger w/ the roll cage on it...

... here are both my karts...
comparative look at my Manco's...
... and the comments bout your brakes being upside down are correct... you 'can' do like I did... n just cut em off completely and replace em w/ a band brake... works just as good for such alil kart... plus wont make that GOD awful racket when slowing. Of course you 'could' do like I did w/ my first kart... leave em on... but set em so they are 'emergency/spare/backup' brakes and use a band brake as a main...

And the steering on these karts is a joke... I improved mine by adding a plate on the steering rod end, to compensate for the lack of Ackermann geometry(at the 2:15 mark is where you can see the plate and movement in comparison to factory. And due to the narrowness and ground clearance, these karts(left factory) are kinda 'more' hazardous anything above 20mph MAX... probably why theres roll bars on yours...hehe

The hole youll see in the seat(on the vid) is for the lack of sidewalls(keeps dirvers butt from sliding), and also the extra 1" lower seemed to help alot in turns(so yes... ones butt 'sorta' sticks out under the seat... but the metal strap under it all keeps things from being sanded down by the road...
... just an idea...
 
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