need help with clutch

[studders]

hello to all. I had to get onto this forum to try and help my son out with his little project. I have no clue what too look for or even where to start. I can fix all of my vehicles but the small engines and clutches are not for me I guess. lol. He has a Honda gx160 5.5. He needs a clutch, brakes and eventually a roll cage. we cannot seem to find the right clutch. like I said I have no clue. from the pictures that I posted you can see the clutch that my wife got him. it does not from what it looks like it should have 4 bolts that bolt to the engine. you can see from the shaft that it is offset some as well. I really wish I would of got rid of it along time but my wife insists that he could make a project out of it. it does run but I don't know if it will go once we get a clutch. it has sat in the weather rain, snow and heat for 3 years but it still fires up. that's a Honda for you I guess. sorry that I have rambled on I just feel so bad and he is trying everything to get a clutch and drive it in our field. if anyone has any suggestions or could point me too a website or what kind of clutch that I need to get. thanks for your time

 

[mckutzy]

Hello and welcome.
I can see your dilemma with the motor. That was from a pump.
It has a tapered shaft and won't be of use to you in this situation.
It is Likely undersized and can't be machined down to fit.
I'm thinking you will need a new motor(I can't suggest a place to get one as you haven't listed your location) or a new crank shaft...

The clutch looks correct,(although it looks like it got hit or dropped).
The 4 bolt holes aren't needed for this type of clutch.

 

[chancer]

Harbor Freight, has a great little 6.5hp motor. Brand new 100 bucks. Many many many guys on the forum use them. But yes like he said it looks like your shaft is tapered and the Honda will not work. and It may be glare but it also looks like as mentionedthat clutch maybe got whacked?... with a hammer trying to force it on the shaft??
Post many and any more questions here as they come up. You can just continue to use this thread you have opened here.

 

[landuse]

Besides the shaft being tapered, it looks like there is no keyway either. The clutch should slide on relatively easily and a key is then used to stop the clutch from spinning freely on the shaft. A retaining bolt is also used that goes into the end of the shaft. It looks like you do not have a threaded bolt hole on the end of the shaft

You want a shaft that looks like the pic below

 

[studders]

Hello and welcome.
I can see your dilemma with the motor. That was from a pump.
It has a tapered shaft and won't be of use to you in this situation.
It is Likely undersized and can't be machined down to fit.
I'm thinking you will need a new motor(I can't suggest a place to get one as you haven't listed your location) or a new crank shaft...

The clutch looks correct,(although it looks like it got hit or dropped).
The 4 bolt holes aren't needed for this type of clutch.

My wife's uncle left this at our house when we moved in and him out so I don't know what he did. Are you telling me that this is not a actual go kart motor? And yes I noticed the clutch has been hit. After hammering my son for about 45 minutes he finally came clean about forcing the clutch on. I told him as well that it should slide right on. Another thing I noticed was the chain fit on the clutch but would not sit in the grooves on the big wheel sprocket. I apologize I'm not sure what it's called. Thanks for the response.

 

[OzFab]

I can't really tell if the shaft is tapered or just really rusted so, first off, does the shaft, in fact, have a keyway (a square groove cut along the shaft) or not? If it doesn't, you have a problem; If it does have a keyway, we can move on to the next step...

Start the engine & use a piece of emery cloth on the shaft to remove all the rust, then accurately measure the shaft (verniel calipers are best)...

As for the chain issue, it may have been best for your wife to check the pitch (distance between teeth) of the axle sprocket before buying the clutch; unfortunately, I think they're different &, now that the clutch is visually damaged, you'll need to buy another, the seller won't take it back...

Measure the distance between the teeth of the axle sprocket & report back, it will be either 3/8" or 1/2"; once we know the correct pitch, we can advise you on which clutch & chain to buy...

 

[studders]

I can't really tell if the shaft is tapered or just really rusted so, first off, does the shaft, in fact, have a keyway (a square groove cut along the shaft) or not? If it doesn't, you have a problem; If it does have a keyway, we can move on to the next step...

Start the engine & use a piece of emery cloth on the shaft to remove all the rust, then accurately measure the shaft (verniel calipers are best)...

As for the chain issue, it may have been best for your wife to check the pitch (distance between teeth) of the axle sprocket before buying the clutch; unfortunately, I think they're different &, now that the clutch is visually damaged, you'll need to buy another, the seller won't take it back...

Measure the distance between the teeth of the axle sprocket & report back, it will be either 3/8" or 1/2"; once we know the correct pitch, we can advise you on which clutch & chain to buy...

I'm pretty sure that it does not have a keyway. I think it's best to maybe just get rid of it and look for him a new one. It needs a lot of work like I said the clutch brakes and I would like a roll cage for it. Might be cheaper to just get another one that is already in working condition.