Just registered here so this is my first post. Hoping someone can help me out. A few weeks ago I bought a manco 706-b for $200. It needed a motor(which I have plenty)a caliper and throttle cable. Figured for $200 id be able to get it going. Little did I know that this cart is propelled by a torque converter. I used to have a cart when I was in H.S. so i figured a clutch would be fine. Within 5 mins of riding the clutch was burned up. $100 mistake I wish to never repeat. So i started to investigate and found out that it has a torque converter so I went ahead and purchased one. This is where I need help: How do these things work? lol. Do you need to have a jackshaft in order for it to be used properly or can I just attach the small sprocket to the torque plate and then run my chain from there to the axle? Sorry to be a hassle, just really eager to get on this bad boy and go!!!!
Need help rebuilding......
- Thread starter texmex
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souperman000
New member
You need a jackshaft for a torque converter. You probably burnes up teh clutch beceause your gearing was off. Do a quick search on the forums...there are a ton of threads of Tc's
Welcome to the forum
Welcome to the forum
mysteryboy28
New member
in a torque converter setup there is a driver pulley (which attaches to the motor), a driven pulley (which connects to the driver pulley via a belt), and then on the same shaft as the driven pulley there is a small sprocket that you run a chain either to the main axle or a jackshaft. a jackshaft serves 2 purposes: mainly to gear your gear ratio down a bit for more torque/less speed, or to facilitate a better arrangement for running the chain from the motor to the axle (like if there are things in the way, like brakes or battery, or height/clearance issues).
show us some pics of your setup. how many tooth sprocket do you have on your axle, and on your clutch?
here's my setup, with some close-ups with the driven pulley removed:
show us some pics of your setup. how many tooth sprocket do you have on your axle, and on your clutch?
here's my setup, with some close-ups with the driven pulley removed:
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cvt 1.jpg -
jackshaft.jpg -
jackshaft 2.jpg -
cvt 2.jpg
Do you absolutely need a jackshaft? The cart came from the factory with a 6.5hp motor. Since there was no motor on it when I got it I figured I'd put my 9hp honda motor on it. The plate that was there previously had no jackshaft on it nor anything welded to the frame. I was thinking of just hooking the chain to the sprocket on the converter to the sprocket onthe axle. This is the converter that I bought:
I was thinking of hoooking the chain to here:
I was thinking of hoooking the chain to here:
mysteryboy28
New member
that's a TAV2, right? that's all you need.
slap that bi-otch on your motor (after assembling it of course), run a chain from the little sprocket to the big sprocket on your axle - and you're done!
slap that bi-otch on your motor (after assembling it of course), run a chain from the little sprocket to the big sprocket on your axle - and you're done!
mysteryboy28
New member
your old setup is simply a centrifugal clutch. pitch it in the trash, or donate it to some kid (if it still works). the TAV2 will blow it away!
Nah man, I fried that sucker in about 5 mins after i fired up the motor and ran it around. I guess with the weight of the cart and the big tires it through the gearing off, I'm not sure. All I know is the 1" bore clutch cost me $100 and the guy on ebay didnt offer to refund me, any or partial
mysteryboy28
New member
that centrifugal clutch was WAAAAAAY too small and weak for the big kart you were trying to use it on. it doesn't surprise me that you burned it up. lol. no refunded needed, just a slap upside the head. lol. live and learn.
how many tooth is your axle sprocket?
i have a centrifugal clutch on this little kart i just built. with my fat 240 lbs on it it will barely move on grass, and the clutch will start smoking almost right away. the trick is to ride in a way that you can fully engage the clutch (higher RPM's) as quick as possible, with the least amount of friction to the clutch parts (clutch plates/belt/etc.). in the lower RPM's things start rubbing and burning. that's bad. trying to accelerate up a hill is dumb. get a running start on a level surface FIRST, so that the clutch is fully engaged - THEN go up the hill, without slowing down.
how many tooth is your axle sprocket?
i have a centrifugal clutch on this little kart i just built. with my fat 240 lbs on it it will barely move on grass, and the clutch will start smoking almost right away. the trick is to ride in a way that you can fully engage the clutch (higher RPM's) as quick as possible, with the least amount of friction to the clutch parts (clutch plates/belt/etc.). in the lower RPM's things start rubbing and burning. that's bad. trying to accelerate up a hill is dumb. get a running start on a level surface FIRST, so that the clutch is fully engaged - THEN go up the hill, without slowing down.
Attachments
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Pads 2.jpg -
complete rear left.jpg
I have no idea how many teeth are on the sprocket but I'll get a count tomorrow. What should it be at in order for everything to go smoothly?
mysteryboy28
New member
looks like you've go about a 60 tooth sprocket. if your wheels are 18 inches and your clutch sprocket is 10 teeth, then you're looking at about 32 mph. given the size and weight of the kart, plus driver/passenger - you might not have a ton of torque, but it should still be fun to drive.
mysteryboy28
New member
i think it's good, it'll give you a little more torque than a 12 tooth sprocket. will just have to mount it and see!
the shaft on your motor looks a bit long. hopefully it won't give you a hard time with alignment when you go to bolt everything up. is it a 3/4" shaft with 3/16" keyway?
the shaft on your motor looks a bit long. hopefully it won't give you a hard time with alignment when you go to bolt everything up. is it a 3/4" shaft with 3/16" keyway?
bighead
New member
You can always slide the engine over some. It's gonna rip if you gear it right.
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