Need help picking the right engine for my manco.

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Lph008

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Im using a centrifugal clutch was told to get a 10t sprocket clutch and a 72T sprocket for axle...
 

landuse

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I'm Also in the same boat trying to figure out sprocket sizes, also ground clearance. Gonna run a motor between 5hp and 6.5hp would like it to be quick off the start but also have good top speed, the kart I got had a small engine and a 16T shaft sprocket and 30T axel sprocket on it, I've been told that would do nothing

As I posted in your other thread, get a 10T clutch and 70T axle sprocket. You will never be able to use the 30T sprocket unless you are using a jackshaft.
 

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This is what it looks like after you take the rust off with a wire wheel, is this ok or is there something else I should do to make it completely smooth? Oh and this is the inner part of the driven, where the belt would ride on it.
 

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Scarface

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Yeesh. That's pretty badly pitted...

I know, I was thinking maybe take an dremel to those spots for an hour and try to smooth them out, or just go buff it and call it good?:confused::worried2:

Should I PM Blaz and see what he say? Doesn't he have his own shop and work on these a lot?
 

Scarface

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ok. I knew I couldn't buff it out, but I was just saying to use it like that but I guess that would create some problems, I don't know but I PM'ed him.
 

Doc Sprocket

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The only thing I could possibly think of doing here, would be to fill the pits with solder, then buff flush. Trying to fill all those holes with welded steel would be near-impossible to do without warping the sheaves. Let us know what Blaz says...
 

Scarface

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Ok well he said:
If the pitting sticks up use a 3m pneumatic spinning tool to clean it off then wire wheel again. if it is recessed pitting and smooth to touch ignore it, it will not hurt the belt at all.

Me: Ok we'll those pit that you see are down into it, so you are saying it is ok to use?

Blaz: As long as the surface feels smooth it can't hurt.

So I guess it is fine? Like the surface is not smooth because of the pits but the pits are smooth because I took a wire wheel to them, there isn't any rust in them. ???
 

landuse

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Ok well he said:
If the pitting sticks up use a 3m pneumatic spinning tool to clean it off then wire wheel again. if it is recessed pitting and smooth to touch ignore it, it will not hurt the belt at all.

Me: Ok we'll those pit that you see are down into it, so you are saying it is ok to use?

Blaz: As long as the surface feels smooth it can't hurt.

So I guess it is fine? Like the surface is not smooth because of the pits but the pits are smooth because I took a wire wheel to them, there isn't any rust in them. ???

The only way you are going to find out is the use it and see what happens
 

Jonester 123

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Hello there, for future reference i use movit rust penetrate spray can or pb blaster to free up major rusted bolts and parts. Amazing stuff but a little expensive, saved me alot of busted up knuckles tearing down my camaro for rebuild.:idea2::thumbsup:
 

Scarface

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Yep. And unless you're running only on pavement, you're best to eliminate it.

I might run it up and down a road a couple of times to reach top speed but I will be on dirt/grass 99% of the time. So what does that do though? What do I need instead of it?

Just talked to my metal shop teacher and he said that I will have to replace the whole axle. So is that correct? Also should I just keep my band brakes or is the something better that does not cost over 150$?
 

Doc Sprocket

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The short story of a differential is that they're the pits off road. They allow the tire with the least traction to spin like heck, while the other tire does nothing. For the long version, Google it.

On the surface, an axle replacement is indicated. However, if you or one of your friends/teacher/cool uncle/whatever can weld, you're in business. You can disassemble the diff, weld up the spider gears (known as the Lincoln Locker or Poor Man's Posi) and you're in business!
 
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