need DSL wiring advice

[supermanotorious]

welp, out here in the wild wild west of New River Centurylink is the only internet provider, and as it turns out I need to run line to a room which is fine, I'm an experienced installer and have all the tools to run and terminate quad cable, CAT5, coax, etc

now I stumbled across this blog and I'm on board with his recommendation for running the CAT5 for DSL but I'm not sure how to tie it in to the incoming box, not even sure what I'm looking at, any suggestions for how to tie in?

http://www.homephonewiring.com/dsl.html

 

[landuse]

Nope. Sorry I can't help. Hopefully someone can

 

[itsid]

Hm never seen such box of course, since ours look wayyy different,
but it's a very trivial thing to do in general:

Do you have any phone in your house?
if so, open the socket and see what color pair is your phone.
from that pic I'd say you have two individual phone lines,
one white-green/blue and
one white-orange/orange (not curently connected)

so white-green/blue it'd be I guess
but I could be wrong, so check that at the phone socket.

Now get a DSL Splitter, (we have all TAE connectors around here, which you unlikely have on your side of the pond...)

the two small wires are all the incoming signal you'll need.. it itself then splits that two-wire signal into a data and a phone line;
my DSL splitter had a simple Cat5 socket and a TAE socket (of course) the TAE was fed into an ISDN box (to further split into several phone numbers) but otherwise you can just feed it back into the phone wiring of the house (then disconnected from the original pair of wires of course)

straight forward, isn't it?

which color-codes to look out for is unfortunately something I wouldn't want to judge from here, I made a guess, but it's just that "a guess".
but since the terminals on the distribution box are labelled Green and Red just as they are labelled in the diagram of a DSL Splitter ont he page you linked, I'm rather confident that'd be the wires you need to tap into


'sid

 

[supermanotorious]

thanks, I think it's as simple as connecting 2 wires to the 2 posts, then same on the socket in the house, we do not pay for phone service and now I'm really curious if we'd have a dial tone or not, not sure if we'd need the splitter to know for sure

 

[itsid]

well if you do not pay for phone service you'll not get a dial tone at all!

the phone lines should be disabled completely (easy to test actually, since the lines carry a voltage differential when connected to the provider... about'ish 60V around here.. IDK about the US tbh)
So just probe the terminals with your multimeter and see if you see any voltage,
no voltage: no dial tone.
No need to attach a splitter to know that much

'sid

 

[supermanotorious]

excellent post, in fact reminds me of KipKay's secret power hack...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoaLGvJkoP8

 

[itsid]

hehe.. cool, so the voltage is about the same as well... good

'sid

 

[supermanotorious]

ah, no voltage at all, so I guess DSL does not require voltage

 

[itsid]

huh? of course it does..
all data signals carry a potential, and the further that signal needs to travel, the higher that potential should be (to counteract line dampening and such)
DSL is a higher frequency (reaches from 138KHz up to a MHz) but other than frequency
(and digital transfer protocols) it's still an ordinary subscriber line hence the name
To be honest I never cared how much of the voltage is actually required for the data packets,
but my thinking was, that it's the exact same as for the voice calls *shrugs*

Anyways, am I understanding you correctly, that you have a working DSL connection set up now on that line and there is still no voltage?
I'm baffled...

'sid

 

[supermanotorious]

that is correct, the DSL is active and working, I checked for both AC and DC voltage and didn't register either

 

[supermanotorious]

double checked it again this evening, no voltage at all, so weird

 

[itsid]

That sounded too odd to believe..

soooo I looked it up for my area (since it's easier to google for "speisespannung DSL telekom" than try to find a variant in oversea tongues )..
and you are semi-correct...
NO, you cannot measure the voltage with your common mulitmeter any longer, thanks to the frequencies involved (1.1MHz'ish)
but there is still a voltage differential (up to 90V, no less than 50V)

But if no phone-line is connected it's indeed not measurable with "standard tools"
According to the telekom guys... in order to measure line integrety they always set up a test voice line during installation, that'd be shut down afterwards for that very reason.

Odd.. didn't know that.. I thought the signal was internally modified in order to prevent interference patterns with the voice line on the same wire-pair *shrugs*
Ah well.. you leanr something new everyday, right

'sid

PS Anyways.. you're up and running, and that's what counts, doesn't it?!

PPS but tbh now I wonder if you could still power kipkay's lamp... maybe a buffer cap to smooth the high frequency a hair.. but the rectifier should be able to deal with a high frequency signal...not?

'sid

 

[supermanotorious]

I'll probably dabble with that at some point because it's one of those things "they" probably dont want you to know or do. I ran a new CAT5 along the wall from the phone service box to the office room and I'm using it for internet right now as I type this. Pretty amazing to think high speed internet and HD videos come from 2 skinny copper wires.

 

[itsid]

well if you want think about it this way..
real time colored multi channel television for years came literally out of thin air LOL

But true it's pretty amazing that it's the exact same copper wires my 56k dial up was wired to, and I later improved with the 64k DSL and if I used my second phone line I doubled up to get 128k...
Now *cough cough* years later I'm rushing 50M through that very same copper wire in my house and can still make phone calls on both lines simultaneously if I wanted to.

BTW,
if you have a 20MHz scope and a 100V probe you can see the signal
(well any scope that tolerates 2Mhz at least and can read either a 100V signal directly or you got a high voltage probe for that is)
My cheap (20 bucks) toy scope is not amongst those of course, but I couldn't reason to buy a real one since I only wanted to play around with it [meaning I have no real use for one]

'sid