Need A Throttle Cable !

[ChrisMac]

I have been to every small engine place in my area and have not been able to come up with a throttle cable for my kart. Any help with a source for a cable for my kart? This is the only thing keeping me from actually riding this thing.

 

[Russ2251]

Bicycle shop.
Can supply any length you need.

 

[KieranM]

try a bike shop, like russ said, or if your really stuck use some string it works just aswell

Bike shop is your best bet.

 

[daviddavid]

Walmart bike cable. Cheap and comes with three so you are bound to have the length you need.

 

[Blazkowiez]

I've heard you can buy very strong fishing line and run it through flexible aluminum 1/4" conduit, this would allow you to use fittings and would be available even in strange parts of the world. That tip is 100% credit to SMEE!

 

[KieranM]

fishing line, ah.. i think i would prefer to hold up and save up for some cable

 

[Blazkowiez]

Just a tip an older guy said if it was hard to find parts in your area, some fishing lines are amazingly strong... think of how strong a fish can pull.

 

[ChrisMac]

I have bike cable since I mountain bike, but cannot figure out a way to attach it to the pedal or carb.

 

[Justin9]

on the cables we buy for the race karts, the cable has a little dab of lead soldered on the end of it, that is usually sandwiched between two washer, one with a little hole that only the wire can do through. Those two washers are on a rod connected to the gas pedal, when you press the pedal forward, the rod pulls the washers forward which pulls the cable that is connected to the carb setup on the engine...

 

[TerryOlson]

I'm playing with the same problem. I found a length of cable at Pep Boy's and I'm sure you can find something similar at any auto parts shop. It's a solid wire inside a flexible metal conduit. It's designed for a remote choke application but I'm finding that there's a lot of resistance in the cable - makes for an interesting ride when it's slow to release when you come off the throttle. I'd thought about a bicycle cable but they have a twisted wire core and I wasn't sure how I'd attach that to the carb linkage.

The cable I'm replacing is like a bike cable, but with a solid wire rather than a series of twisted wires. I'm sure they're available from various sources on the internet, but I was in a scramble to get it running after installing a new engine.

 

[ChrisMac]

I found a length of cable, I'm sure you can find something similar at any auto parts shop.

I actually am the GM at Advance Auto, and we have the same choke cable. Thought of that too, and I agree . . . too much resistance.


I have actually gone the bike cable route. Crimped on an electrical eyelet connector to the end to attach it to the carb. I'll try and post some pics later.

 

[ChrisMac]

here's what i'm hoping will work

 

[daviddavid]

Where does everyone get the bolts and adjusting nuts that are hollow for cables?

 

[theo]

They are called cable stops, check with a nut and bolt outlet.

 

[ChrisMac]

I actually got these from work. They are a type of fitting that converts 3/16 inverted flair line to a compression fitting. I screwed in just a 3/16 brake line nut into the inverted flare end. The inverted flare acts as a "stop" for the cable housing. All brass automotive brake line hardware.

 

[TerryOlson]

That will work - nice job and thanks for the solution.

 

[Tommy Boy]

I have similar set-up on my mower racer. The main problem I've come across is at the pedal linkage. I've tried sandwiching the cable with fender washers, tapping a series of holes in a washer to weave the cable through THEN sandwiching the washer, and even wrapping the cable around the mounting bolt THEN sandwiching between washers, and with every stop-gap solution I've tried, I still get significant cable slippage over a short amount of time.

The electrical connector is a **** good idea. Also, for a tad bit more strength, you can get wire rope ferrules/crimps for making eyes which will give you a more durable connection, will let you set the cable eye to the exact size you need, and give you a fine tuning option in your cable length by the size of the eye you employ. And these parts are super cheap and available at your local hardware and building supply store. For the carburetor linkage, the light, easy to make electrical fitting is a good idea. But for your pedal linkage, trust me, you'll want something strong, solid, adjustable, and static. This will get you there.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

The crimps are a very good plan, but you have to engineer in a method of adjustment (obviously). I don't know if you can still get them, but I have successfully used the metal insert from a Marrette as a cable stop. Most of these marrettes (or "wire nuts") are plastic, with a metal coil inside. They are used to make electrical connections. You would strip the wires, and twist on the connector. Anyway, sometimes you can find one that is a little different. These ones have a metal insert with a set screw. You would twist the wires together, slip on this insert, tighten the set screw, then screw on the plastic cap. In the case of a cable stop, you just ditch the cap.

Regarding adjusters, it's fairly simple to make one. Go and get say, a 1/4-20 bolt from the hardware store. Cheap s**t, non-graded. Drill a hole lengthwise all the way through it for the cable to run through. Find a drill bit the size of the OD of the cable sheath (or "conduit"), and on the head side of the bolt, open up the cable hole about halfway the thickness of the bolt head. The sheath will sit in the recess you created. Now, weld a tab on your frame in the required place and drill and tap to match the bolt. If you are unequipped to tap threads, you can just drill a plain hole, and install nuts on both sides of the bolt to tension your cable. I have made many of these, with full success.

Using the electrical eyelet works, too. For added strength and slip resistance, I'd suggest passing the cable through the crimp end, and then loop it through again beofre crimping. You could solder it, too.

Finally, a thought on slipping cables- If it's the throttle cable that's slipping, don't keep messing with band-aids. Cable slip isn't the problem, cable travel is. Fabricate a pedal stop, and adjust it so that at WOT on the carb, the pedal simply cannot pull the cable further. Your cable will thank you, your carb will thank you, you can mash the gas 'til armageddon and back, and the cable will stay put. Cheers!

PS- Oh, yeah- Regarding fishing line, there is some seriously strong stuff out there, and with a pedal stop, it'll work find. Mind two things, though- engine heat and abrasion. Don't let it get too close to very hot parts, and ensure there's no point where the line catches or drags on a sharp point or edge.

 

[redsox985]

Toy, could you post photos of you cable assembly with the 1/4-20 bolt?
Thanks

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Don't have a photo of that at present, I'll have a look around. But I assure you, it's simple as he//. If you look at the brake cable adjuster barrell on a bicycle, it's exactly the same, but you're using a bolt.