My Off Road Kart project

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frederic

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A turbocharged 3.8 and an S-10 would make a great combo, but why do you say that it was more fun? Because it was an easier install and they pack a great punch for their size? How do turbo 3.8 buicks compare to the turbo 4.3 chevys that came in GMC syclones/typhoons?

It depends on how you define "more fun". My definition changes as I get older (I'm in my 40's now), but generally speaking a 4 or 6 cylinder with a turbo will get better mileage than a big-block V8 and you can produce similar power levels, and in a sense have the best of both worlds. Why? Because without taking efficiency into consideration an engine drinks it's displacement in air and fuel. So for normal driving, a big block is essentially always going to be quite thirsty. A smaller engine with a turbo, will therefore drink less under normal conditions but because you can grossly exceed the displacement by compressing air and fuel, well, you can "drink" as much as a big block, and get into the same power level. Obviously this is a vague, conceptual idea and in practice one can do a lot of nifty stuff. I built a 451 cid stroker for my old Dodge truck and turbocharged it, and while cruising on the highway like everyone else I got into the 17-18 mpg range. Not bad for 25 year old technology. And, in an instant, I could scatter transmission and differential parts on the same highway :)

Comparing the turbocharged 3.8L Buick to the turbocharged 4.3L Sy/Ty the Buick has some advantages, particularly in the bottom end. The crank is for certain stronger, due to the fillets on the journals as well as the larger diameter of said journals. The webbing is stronger (the part of the block the main caps bolt to) and surprisingly enough the turbocharged 3.8L blocks have a higher nickel content than the turbocharged 4.3L blocks.

Why some of the lessons Buick learned along the way with their Grand National series didn't trickle into the GMC Sy/Ty's series I have no idea. Maybe because the Sy/TY weren't all that popular until after they were discontinued, whereas the "black car" Grand Nationals took off pretty good. That's a guess, I really have no idea.

I've also wanted to put a late model 8.1L (496 CI) Big block chevy into a 90s S-10, but I'm pretty sure that it wont fit without making heavy modifications to the firewall and it would stick out of the hood. If a person had cash, it would be pretty bad *** to add twin turbos to the 8.1L and make it AWD like the syclones/typhoons. Nevermind, that sounds like a good way to die.

I and several friends managed to shove an EFI 460 into an early 90's Ford explorer, and eventually turbocharge it and the hood closed. You're right, a lot of modifications had to be made to the body of the vehicle. The radiator core support was "reshaped" so that the radiator was essentially about 1/4" from the plastic grill on the outside of the core and the 460 required short-nose water pump, pulleys, and what not. The firewall was simply cut out and replaced with a flat piece of steel and the bell housing pattern traced at the bottom and the engine and transmission bolted directly to the firewall, using it as an engine mount in a sense. A tranny shield was shaped and formed over that, as the original trans tunnel had to be cut out. The C6 did not fit. While a very fast truck in the acceleration department with all the other modifications, the one thing that has not been compensated for very well thus far is braking. If one brakes hard enough they can pretty much guarrentee the front bumper will tap the ground. My buddy installed higher LB springs and then the shock towers started tearing apart. At this point the stock explorer frame (it wasn't a unibody in those days like it is today) was replaced with an F250 frame that was reshaped and narrowed and shortened to fit. It gets to the point however where it's getting out of control and while fun to do because "we can" it's getting expensive and every problem solved introduces another really annoying problem.

Our RWD Taurus project (small block, turbocharged) in contrast came out much better. It's actually a well behaved car but then it only looks like a taurus when you're sitting in the car as the interior is stock other than the full cage. And yes, it's a four door ;-) But it no longer is a strut-based car and there's no truck space either.

While on the subject of big engine/small car, I've also wanted to build a V-8 Chevette or Vega for as long as I've known what those cars were. The trouble is that I've only seen a handful of vegas in my entire life, and chevettes have started to disappear rather quickly in the last 5-10 years.

Yeah, most of the smaller "cute" cars, even though both have a decent sized following to this day, seemed to have gone to the crusher/shredders in droves.

I was at my local junkyard a week ago looking for a small steering rack for my son's kart, and they were carrying an old 50's caddy with the big beautiful wings on it right into the crusher, and within a minute it was flat as hell. What I saw of it before it was flattened it had a few dings, the paint was badly faded, but I didn't see any rust holes and all the glass was there.

Yay for cash for clunkers.

But on the other hand, maintaining a classic to "prestine" condition is a real pain in the *** and requires a lot of love in order to do it for the rest of one's life. I look back at some of the cars I've owned that I wish I still owned today, but over the years life happens and sometimes we have to part with what we love. Sometimes we're victims... in 1987 my 1966 GTO convertible was parked outside a bagel store and a large dump truck drove right into it. That and about six other cars.

Anyway, don't take my "more fun" comment too seriously... just as I age I am appreciate miles per gallon almost as much as I appreciate neck-snapping power. And turbocharging allows you to balance the two fairly well.

Then of course I have in the back of my garage a 2/3 built 520-ish CID Ford stroker with a radically low compression ratio with the intention of putting on two really large turbochargers.

And yes, that is not expected to get good mileage lol.
 

572bigblock

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Anyway, don't take my "more fun" comment too seriously... just as I age I am appreciate miles per gallon almost as much as I appreciate neck-snapping power. And turbocharging allows you to balance the two fairly well.
I assumed you meant more fun in that the pay-off was nearly as good for power, but in a smaller lighter package. And I assumed it fit in the engine bay a lot easier with less clearance problems. S-10s are small, tight, and crowded anyhow, and a smaller engine would make for easier maintanance. No, I did not take your comment too seriously.

I was at my local junkyard a week ago looking for a small steering rack for my son's kart, and they were carrying an old 50's caddy with the big beautiful wings on it right into the crusher, and within a minute it was flat as hell. What I saw of it before it was flattened it had a few dings, the paint was badly faded, but I didn't see any rust holes and all the glass was there.

Yay for cash for clunkers.
What a shame, people will crush anything. 30,000 miles, spotless, a classic, and in running condition means nothing to some people. They're dumb for not realizing that old cars have value other than their weight in scrap iron, and could easily get more money. Fortunately cash for clunkers protects cars older than 1985, but cars 1986 and newer will be classics and collectors someday. Oh well, you can't save them all, and its none of my business when it comes to someone elses car, unless I am offering the most money.


Our RWD Taurus project (small block, turbocharged) in contrast came out much better. It's actually a well behaved car but then it only looks like a taurus when you're sitting in the car as the interior is stock other than the full cage. And yes, it's a four door ;-) But it no longer is a strut-based car and there's no truck space either.
Sounds bad a$$. please supply us with pics if you can


I and several friends managed to shove an EFI 460 into an early 90's Ford explorer, and eventually turbocharge it and the hood closed. You're right, a lot of modifications had to be made to the body of the vehicle. The radiator core support was "reshaped" so that the radiator was essentially about 1/4" from the plastic grill on the outside of the core and the 460 required short-nose water pump, pulleys, and what not. The firewall was simply cut out and replaced with a flat piece of steel and the bell housing pattern traced at the bottom and the engine and transmission bolted directly to the firewall, using it as an engine mount in a sense. A tranny shield was shaped and formed over that, as the original trans tunnel had to be cut out. The C6 did not fit. While a very fast truck in the acceleration department with all the other modifications, the one thing that has not been compensated for very well thus far is braking. If one brakes hard enough they can pretty much guarrentee the front bumper will tap the ground. My buddy installed higher LB springs and then the shock towers started tearing apart. At this point the stock explorer frame (it wasn't a unibody in those days like it is today) was replaced with an F250 frame that was reshaped and narrowed and shortened to fit. It gets to the point however where it's getting out of control and while fun to do because "we can" it's getting expensive and every problem solved introduces another really annoying problem.
Was is worth it? Maybe my 8.1L s-10 wasnt such a good idea, even though I didnt give it much thought. A 350 is too big for the engine bay in the new body style s-10s, and the 8.1 is much bigger, and appears much taller in the trucks they came in, so I'm sure it would have to look like a modified drag race truck to make it work. I just like the idea of a sleeper, where it looks stock from all around, but is an overpowered rubber burning machine.
The 8.1L was introduced to replace the big block chevys(454) in the 90s series trucks, and was the low priced option to the diesel (about $7,000 cheaper). They were also made to compete with the big ford gas engines(v10). The early 2000 series chevy trucks(2500HD and up) with the 8.1L get about 12-14 MPG unloaded, and with a fully loaded trailer on they get 9-10 MPG (trailer doesnt fade them much). They are rated at something around 360 HP and 455 ft. lb. of torque, but I think they have potential for much more. The reason why you never see one (or see aftermarket parts for one), is that they didnt produce them long in 3/4ton and 1 ton pickups before dropping the option because I believe GM was trying to protect its time and investment in the duramax diesel engines. I believe they still put them in big trucks, like kodiaks, though.
One of the magazines put one of these engines in an SS454 truck. A fullsize truck would probably be a more realistic home for one.
I've also thought about putting an turbocharged oldsmobile 350 diesel into an S-10. When built properly(with stronger head bolts, higher quality head gaskets, and larger main studs) they make a respectable diesel for their size. Add a turbo from a 90s chevy diesel and they put out decent power. But they only made them for a short time in the late 70's, early 80's, and I'm sure most of them had bitten the dust by now, since many were abandoned because it was easier to replace the troublesome deisel with a 350 gas engine. But, they were experimenting with them all the way up until their demise, and by the time they had worked out the issues, there was no demand for them.
While on the subject of Olds diesels, did I read somewhere that you converted one into a high performance gas engine? If so can you go into detail? I've heard of this conversion before and understand that the diesels have a strong bottom end, but I don't know much about what is necessary for the conversion.



Comparing the turbocharged 3.8L Buick to the turbocharged 4.3L Sy/Ty the Buick has some advantages, particularly in the bottom end. The crank is for certain stronger, due to the fillets on the journals as well as the larger diameter of said journals. The webbing is stronger (the part of the block the main caps bolt to) and surprisingly enough the turbocharged 3.8L blocks have a higher nickel content than the turbocharged 4.3L blocks.
I've always heard the buick 3.8 engines are great, and I know first hand. A friend had one in his high-mileage buick and he beat the living crap out of it for a month straight until he lost his license (speeding @ 109MPH). From a cold start it would see high RPM... all the time. Sounds like hell for the rod and crank bearings, since it takes a short time for the oil to reach them (or so I've been told). It still ran perfect the last time I saw it.
Nickel content in engine blocks are supposed to help the engine run cooler, correct? I know cadillac experimented with adding nickel to the blocks with their 500 CI engines back in the 70s.



Sorry 88S10 durango, I promise I will stop veering your thread off-course, and it will return to normal soon.
 

frederic

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Sounds bad a$$. please supply us with pics if you can

My friend has a website, but seemingly it's gone. Next time I talk to him I'll see if he still has the pictures. Of our group projects, it probably was the nicest result in appearance, performance, and the fun building it.


Was is worth it?

From a practical standpoint, no. The project, like most of our group projects, started off over a few beers with a discussion like "I wonder if a 460 could fit into this dead explorer?" and after we pulled out the tape measure we decided it was going to fit regardless.

Beer is dangerous.

While on the subject of Olds diesels, did I read somewhere that you converted one into a high performance gas engine? If so can you go into detail?

Yes, and what I did was not really spetacular. All I did was machine and install slightly shorter rods so the compression ratio was in the 8.5:1 range, then turbocharged it. Obviously there was more to it than that - EFI throttle body, tig welded intake fragments to make a complete intake (a little olds, a little chevy, a little holley...), and so forth. The diesel 350's have a lousy bottom end if you're going to use it as a stock diesel. That was their demise actually, thrown rods and cracked blocks left and right. They simply couldn't take the compression ratio, however as a gasoline engine (again, lowering the compression ratio), it's better than a stock 350 by "a little". For the effort involved in converting an olds diesel over to gas, you could buy a 350 pickup motor (4-bolt mains) and have at it and use cheaper, more plentiful parts. The only reason why I converted the olds diesel to gas is essentially that I got one in trade and one of my "group project" friends was happy to tig up an intake for it. All the EFI bits I had lying around from other projects, and cobbled together a harness based on the 1227749 GM ECM.

crank bearings, since it takes a short time for the oil to reach them (or so I've been told). It still ran perfect the last time I saw it.

The 3.8L (and 4.1L non-turbo) Buick v6's are bottom oilers - the crank gets wet first, then the heads. The 4.3, if I'm not mistaken, parallel's the oil flow so the crank and heads get wet at the same time - though a little later on because more oil has to flow to make everything wet. I haven't monkeyed with these things since the mid to late 90's when I was rabidly into GM EFI and couldn't find enough projects to slap turbochargers on.

Nickel content in engine blocks are supposed to help the engine run cooler, correct? I know cadillac experimented with adding nickel to the blocks with their 500 CI engines back in the 70s.

The increased nickel makes the block stronger. I believe that it also reduces the heat absorption rate of the block/heads as well, meaning that more heat is available to make power (then go out the tailpipe) rather than be absorbed by the heads, block, then cooling system and oil.

The big difference I noticed was durability... And if you ever want to build up a 3.8L Buick turbo engine, you'll find that the 3.8L GN blocks are very overpriced used. Instead, use a 4.1L V6 block. Why? Because the crankshaft is identical to the one in the 3.8L - rolled fillets and all - and you get .3 more liters to boot. The heads/intake stink and you can toss them but the block itself, wonderful piece of really cheap hardware.
 

572bigblock

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The diesel 350's have a lousy bottom end if you're going to use it as a stock diesel. That was their demise actually, thrown rods and cracked blocks left and right. They simply couldn't take the compression ratio, however as a gasoline engine (again, lowering the compression ratio), it's better than a stock 350 by "a little". For the effort involved in converting an olds diesel over to gas, you could buy a 350 pickup motor (4-bolt mains) and have at it and use cheaper, more plentiful parts.
I've heard more about the olds diesels having trouble with blowing head gaskets, than throwing rods, but I'm not saying that it didnt happen. The head bolts could not withstand the compression and stretched causing uneven torque across the head, and then the gaskets would blow out. Also the surface of the head became warped. Often they reused the same head bolts and heads, with new gaskets, and the next time they blow the gasket out even sooner. But Oldsdiesel.com claims that all these diesels need are heavy duty ARP head bolts, heavy duty head gaskets, and longer main studs, and they will run a long time. But it would probably be better to start with a 90s truck diesel rather than an olds for a few reasons.



The big difference I noticed was durability... And if you ever want to build up a 3.8L Buick turbo engine, you'll find that the 3.8L GN blocks are very overpriced used. Instead, use a 4.1L V6 block. Why? Because the crankshaft is identical to the one in the 3.8L - rolled fillets and all - and you get .3 more liters to boot. The heads/intake stink and you can toss them but the block itself, wonderful piece of really cheap hardware.
Thats interesting.
 

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Hi Guys , well not much in the update world for you guys to read about , been working to Much ! I have 2 payments left on my car I bought in winter and then out comes all the kart parts I have stored ,,I will build up my frame and try to get it all put together then , Bill
 

88s10Durango

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UpDate

Hi guys ,been busy as usuall , funds have been low from the present depression **** , i have just recently picked up another engine for my project .
Decided the Honda trike engine I had isen`t going to be enough power for what I want , so I purchased a 1984 Yamaha TT600 engine .
4 valve head
dual carb setup
dual exhaust pipe engine
single cylinder so has lots of Torque
3 more pieces to get for the engine and then I will start putting it all together ..
 

88s10Durango

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Hi ,gonna be a small one seater , so --- A full cage will be in order >> I don`t plan on going slow with this thing and wanna get lots of AIR !!! LoL :thumbsup:
 
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88s10Durango

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Hi been busy putting my 2wd to 4wd truck together , almost drivable now , I need to pick up the tubing for the kart next , am thinking 1 1/2 " X .090 wall . is that gonna be rigid enough if its all boxed in properly ? I don`t really want to go with the next size up of .125 " wall on the tubing , think it would get to heavy then . Bill

 

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Update !

Hi I know its been a long time but today I picked up my tubing 1 1/4" X 1 1/4" X .100 wall tubing , 48 ft. of it , Monday picking up another 24` of it as it had to be ordered .
Sunday I will start to put this thing together , will upload pictures as I go .:cheers2:
 

88s10Durango

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Go Kart Frame

Start cutting my lower frame pieces out this morning, had to stop cause I gotta go to work dam !! anyways have a boo at them ,mayby tomorrow I will start tacking them together ,.





 
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88s10Durango

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Well tonight I tacked all the lower frame together , went to my local Pick-A-Part scrap car wreckers and took out 2 drivers side CV axles out of a 1997 & 1995 VW Jetta , they have a flange on the tranny side of them so I can make a flange to put on my rear jackshaft to bolt them up to, I can later go and get the splines flange for them for the wheel side ,.
Tomorrow I`m hopeing to get the upper frame and roll bar tacked on, will update with pictures when that happens , when the frame is all tacked up I will take it to my brothers shop to do the final welding.





 

theo

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You should get the flanges at the trans also so you can adapt them to your jackshaft.
 

88s10Durango

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Fleo I do plan on going back to the wreckers to get the said flanges , todays update , I got most of the upper frame cut and tacked into place , I ran out of tubing and welding rods so will have to get more , its starting to take shape now and I`m pleased with that .
Here are the required pics for ya all :thumbsup:




 

88s10Durango

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Good eye Bman , lol , the drivers side upper frame rail is 2" lower than the other side , is why the roll bars look crooked , I was getting tired and never noticed till after I tacked it up lol , easy fix . :roflol:
 
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