B man
Tecumseh FTW!
my scooter does the same. how warm is it? on wet or cold days my scooter wont start at all but on nice warm dry days it fires right up and runs like a top. check your air box.
My first Reverse Trike, using ATV and Scooter parts.
- Thread starter will1384
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It was warm today, and the air box is clean, I also replaced
the fuel filter, I am going to check all the wires and hoses
later on.
B man
Tecumseh FTW!
huh oddly enough replaceing my fuel filter just screwed mine up so bad it wouldn't even crank with it on.....so i took it off.lol
take yours off and see if the fuel is stoping there. i have translucent line so i saw mine stop at the filter.
take yours off and see if the fuel is stoping there. i have translucent line so i saw mine stop at the filter.
It had a small white fuel filter, and I replaced it with a
larger see-threw garden tractor fuel filter, I can see fuel
spurting into it, but not with much power, BTW I just
finished recharging battery, and to test it, I tried starting
and it started right up, and I let it run a few minutes
LOLIt has to be ether its not pumping enough fuel, but that's
unlikely because I rode the trike today and it had lots of
power, or its something electronic, wire lose, corrosion,
something, I will look tomorrow.
bighead
New member
Perhaps you can fab some wheel spacers to extend each wheel out 3"
Is it crazy unstable?
Is it crazy unstable?
It's OK going in a strait line, but turns are pretty bad,
I ether have to slow down to maybe 5mph, or I am limited
to very subtle turns, otherwise I end up on two wheels if
not turned over, also right now a garden tractor at the
same speeds has 100% better steering with sharpener turns.
If I could at least stop the ending up on two
wheels / tipping over, I would be pretty happy.
fowler
New member
that looks sweat
nice job
u could do what t man did and rather than one wheel between the swing arm have two just each side
nice job
u could do what t man did and rather than one wheel between the swing arm have two just each side
The way the scooter wheel is attached, its directly bolted
to the shaft that's coming out of the motor, there is no way
to drive two wheels, unless I figure out a some kind of
sprocket that will fit that shaft and something to support the
the other end of that long shaft.
That motor is used on some ATVs and mini dune buggy's
but I have never found a good image or diagram of the
chain drive setup.
The other problem is that the motor its self is the swing
arm, the motor is held to the frame by a long bolt that
acts as a pivot point, the only other attachments to the
frame are the two rear shocks.
I have thought about extending the A-arms, but from my
Google searches most say that's a bad idea, also on my
trike the A-arms are an odd shape, and it would not be
an easy job.
The only other option is to widen the frame that sits
between the A-arms, that's going to be a lot of work.
Here is a picture with the gas tank and battery mounted,
and the air box is just sitting in there.
Here are some different views of the A-arms.
Bottom view.
Top view.
Side view.
And front view.
Google searches most say that's a bad idea, also on my
trike the A-arms are an odd shape, and it would not be
an easy job.
The only other option is to widen the frame that sits
between the A-arms, that's going to be a lot of work.
Here is a picture with the gas tank and battery mounted,
and the air box is just sitting in there.
Here are some different views of the A-arms.
Bottom view.
Top view.
Side view.
And front view.
oldbikerarlo
Old guy
you could gain alot by lowering the COG see if you can lower your seat,
I never even thought about that, but the most I could
lower the seat would be about 4 inches, and that would
place the seat about 1 inch above the motor, I believe
its doable, and it may help some, but I don't think its
going to fix the problem entirely, I think I will try anyway,
it seems the easiest and cheapest to try LOL
Here is what I am thinking, top frame is how it is now,
the bottom frame is with the seat lowered.
fowler
New member
u could widen it
and lower it by lifting the shock mount point
and lower it by lifting the shock mount point
Thanks!
I never even thought about moving the shock mounts,
that is good idea.
I had some time today, and finished lowering the seat
mount, I also got a new brake master cylinder in the
mail Saturday, so tomorrow I plan on fixing the brakes
and doing a little test drive
Here it is with the seat mount down.
And with the seat mount up for easy access to the motor.
And the seat mount close up, to the right you can see
a bolt I am using as a hinge LOL
I may do tad more welding here and there, but if it
rides well, it likely to stay as it is, I may add a brace
or to, maybe.
I did not get much done today despite working on
the scooter just about all day
I installed the new brake master cylinder, but was
unable to ever get it to work no matter how many
times or ways I tried bleeding the brakes, and the
oil I did recover looked nasty, BTW the brakes did
work when I first got the scooter, but the little plastic
window broke, looked like the sun damaged the plastic,
I guess I will have to keep trying
So I decided to just get it running, and skip the brakes
for now, but ran into a few more roadblocks,
(1) The scooter's push start and kill switch were going
bad, it would run the starter, but sometimes I had no
spark, so I ran a new push start and kill switch.
(2) Fuel pump was somewhat clogged, I tried cleaning
it, but its still not pumping all that well.
(3) Some wires are corroded, I am trying to fix them.
(4) The automatic choke is reading 29 ohms, normal
is said to be 10 or 20 ohms
Right now, I have spark, fuel is getting up to the
carburetor, air filter is clean, but its not running
Next I am going to check compression, just in case
and check the valve adjustment.
One thing to think about is that this scooter has
over 1600 miles on it, got into a bad wreck, and
sit in the mud and weeds for years with most of
the wiring and electronics exposed to the elements,
I will get it to work, it just takes time.
the scooter just about all day
I installed the new brake master cylinder, but was
unable to ever get it to work no matter how many
times or ways I tried bleeding the brakes, and the
oil I did recover looked nasty, BTW the brakes did
work when I first got the scooter, but the little plastic
window broke, looked like the sun damaged the plastic,
I guess I will have to keep trying
So I decided to just get it running, and skip the brakes
for now, but ran into a few more roadblocks,
(1) The scooter's push start and kill switch were going
bad, it would run the starter, but sometimes I had no
spark, so I ran a new push start and kill switch.
(2) Fuel pump was somewhat clogged, I tried cleaning
it, but its still not pumping all that well.
(3) Some wires are corroded, I am trying to fix them.
(4) The automatic choke is reading 29 ohms, normal
is said to be 10 or 20 ohms
Right now, I have spark, fuel is getting up to the
carburetor, air filter is clean, but its not running
Next I am going to check compression, just in case
and check the valve adjustment.
One thing to think about is that this scooter has
over 1600 miles on it, got into a bad wreck, and
sit in the mud and weeds for years with most of
the wiring and electronics exposed to the elements,
I will get it to work, it just takes time.
bighead
New member
Put a bunch of weight on the front end and see what happens.
Are you thinking that the carburetor is not setting
just right and that by weighing down the front end
the carburetor will level out ?
bighead
New member
Nope, More weight on the front end may make it stable some.
Oh, OK, I was thinking you were talking about the starting
problem LOL
I have not had a chance to ride it after I lowered the seat,
but sitting on it with the seat installed feels a little better,
but I may have to lower the handle bars now.
BTW I went on eBay and found most of the parts for
the motor are $5 to $10 and the one expensive part,
the carburetor, is like $20 LOL, I can replace all the
electronic parts, carburetor, fuel pump, throttle cable,
oil drain plug, oil filter, for like $80, I only wish car
parts were so cheap LOL
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