My first chopper Build

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skid20

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that copper looks friggen sweet tho. i definitly want to try that. was it hard?

It's really not too hard, you can cut copper tubing on a miter saw with a carbide blade (nothing special). . . An an Mapp gas torch works but it takes a long time to heat the metal the bigger the dia. I don't have an acetelyne torch so on some of it I found myself using 2 Mapp torches to heat the copper to cherry red. You can buy silver-Phosphorus brazing rods at most hardware stores. It's just a matter of lightly clamping or making a jig to hold your miter cuts together while they are brazed. It's not like sweating water fittings, there is alot more heat involved and you have to go 360* around each joint like welding because sil-phos does not flow like tin solder. But the benifit of using sil-phos rods are you don't have to sand every friggin joint! They can be corroded, and due to the intense heat, all the impurities will burn off the pipe!
 

Raywelder

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well when you think about it the copper should only get to be the same temperature as any thing else because the exhaust gasses are the same temp.

Yea, but copper has a different thermal properties, it conducts and spreads heat well, Steel doesnt. But I'm not sure whether it would get hotter, or if it would cool off better due to its properties.
 

lemegacool

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OMFG!!! the carb you are running is the same carb i'm currently installing on my gx160 turbo setup lol and lol i just went to ebay and bought myself a little breather air filter for the cam housing lol

 

skid20

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Yea, but copper has a different thermal properties, it conducts and spreads heat well, Steel doesnt. But I'm not sure whether it would get hotter, or if it would cool off better due to its properties.

I think, from working with copper for years, that it and other non-ferrous metals have the ability to collect heat faster than harder metals as well as hold heat longer. With that said I also think that the temperature would not be any greater than what it's heat source is producing, but those properties should also work in reverse, I.E. the copper may shed heat just as fast as it collects it, especially due to this just being pipe and not a solid block of metal. Either way you are'nt going to want to touch it unless you like leaving your skin behind! LOL

OMFG!!! the carb you are running is the same carb i'm currently installing on my gx160 turbo setup lol and lol i just went to ebay and bought myself a little breather air filter for the cam housing lol

Ha! Yeah, Its a little big for the engine I've been told, but it seems to work very well... I had a pretty large power gain from my gx160 after installing that mikuni. Great minds think alike!
 

skid20

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Alright it's been a while since I've been able to work on the bike, but I've had some time lately and made some noticeable changes.

First of I decide to turn my engine backward so the head slants forward, I think it looks better. I also added a 15* mount. I'll be using a stationary diff. from a riding lawnmower basically as a gearbox to rotate the opposite end of the jackshaft the correct direction. Still waiting for the machining to get done on the diff.:toetap05:

And of course rotating the engine brought on another problem.
I had to build a new header. The copper one was cool but I don't want to tear it apart and redo it! (probably use it on something else) So I had some curved pipe laying around from all things furniture, I had a couple of 90* peices and a 1 1/8 X 2" flared peice of pipe which was metal leg from a barstool. Lol:cheers2:

I also decided to shorten the base of the frame behind the front tire by about 8" and add on 2 down tubes instead of the single that I had before. Bought a Sportster tank and built a springer fork and got rid of the shocks on the front.

I should be getting my diff. back this week hopefully, then then it's just a few small things to get it running again! Can't wait!!
 

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Raywelder

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it does look cooler, but it wouldn't be worth it to me!
The exhaust looks better for sure.
 
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