souperman000
New member
What do you mean? I gave it a few short pulls to get the gas flowing.
If you are thinking what I am thinking (primer bulb) there isn't one...
My First Build - Modifications
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What do you mean? I gave it a few short pulls to get the gas flowing.
If you are thinking what I am thinking (primer bulb) there isn't one...
jamyers
Well-known member
If the carb and pump are both dry, it'll prolly take more than a few short pulls to get the pump to move enough fuel into the carb to start. I'd try pulling carb fuel line off the pump and dribbling gas into it until the bowl fills up and it's full, then hook it back up and give it a try.
OzFab
Well-known member
That's what I meant. If there's no fuel in the lines to begin with, your arm will fall off before it primes
souperman000
New member
Alright, I give up...
I primed it three times, pulled a gazillion more (oooh, I can feel it in my shoulder right now), still nothing. I had spark and everything was on that was supposed to be. I even checked the spark.
To add insult to injury, the pump started to leak.
I'll stop by the bigger small engine place next time I return my recycling or am up in that direction. hopefully they have a pump in stock for a decent price; I don't want to order online right away.
Jamyers - Do you have any detailed pics on how you routed the hoses for the new pump in the orginial position? Does it hit under the housing like that?
I primed it three times, pulled a gazillion more (oooh, I can feel it in my shoulder right now), still nothing. I had spark and everything was on that was supposed to be. I even checked the spark.
To add insult to injury, the pump started to leak.
I'll stop by the bigger small engine place next time I return my recycling or am up in that direction. hopefully they have a pump in stock for a decent price; I don't want to order online right away.
Jamyers - Do you have any detailed pics on how you routed the hoses for the new pump in the orginial position? Does it hit under the housing like that?
Doc Sprocket
*********
Can you tell if it's delivering fuel at all? Plug damp? How 'bout the ol' teaspoon-of-fuel-down-the-plug-hole trick?
souperman000
New member
Yes, I suspect that no fuel is getting to it. I'll try the gas in the plug hole trick today.
souperman000
New member
Started up on the second pull. Shut off pretty quickly after that though. Pump was leaking almost the same as it was before the sealent, I'm going ut on a limb here saying its toast.
Seemed like no gas was flowing through, or else it would have kept running.
Seemed like no gas was flowing through, or else it would have kept running.
Doc Sprocket
*********
Yup- diagnosis confirmed. I guess you're into a rebuild kit, or a new pump.
jamyers
Well-known member
Here are pics of my current fuel system. (I've got the fuel link from the tank jury-rigged out of the way until my new starter clutch arrives.)
In the fuel-pump closeup, the top hose is coming from the tank, the next one down goes under the intake and exhaust to the pulse fitting on the crankcase cover, and the lower one goes under the carb to the carb inlet fitting. (The other two hoses in the pic are the crankcase vent hose and a carb external vent that I drilled and added.)
I used 1/2" (or maybe 3/4") self-tapping metal roofing screws to mount the pump, there's nothing on the other side for them to hit except maybe the kill-switch wire.
It's not the cleanest, slickest installation on the planet, but it works. I'm thinking of going to metal tubing to get from the tank to the pump, maybe even the pulse line as well - but that's just for looks...
In the fuel-pump closeup, the top hose is coming from the tank, the next one down goes under the intake and exhaust to the pulse fitting on the crankcase cover, and the lower one goes under the carb to the carb inlet fitting. (The other two hoses in the pic are the crankcase vent hose and a carb external vent that I drilled and added.)
I used 1/2" (or maybe 3/4") self-tapping metal roofing screws to mount the pump, there's nothing on the other side for them to hit except maybe the kill-switch wire.
It's not the cleanest, slickest installation on the planet, but it works. I'm thinking of going to metal tubing to get from the tank to the pump, maybe even the pulse line as well - but that's just for looks...
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souperman000
New member
I do see that it will probably not fit under the stock air filter housing though...At least not in that orientation.
jamyers
Well-known member
Oh yeah, the stock air cleaner is going bye-bye as soon as I get my hands on some foam.
souperman000
New member
Hmm, I'll have to play with it then, because I would prefer to keep the stock air cleaner. How did you do the choke with out it?
souperman000
New member
I am having some trouble finding suitable front wheels. Obviously, there are some out there on the internet, but I would rather not pay $60 for the wheels and another 50 for shipping.
Where did you all get your front wheels?
My wheels need a 5/8" inner diameter. Preferably between 13 and 10 inches in total diameter.
Where did you all get your front wheels?
My wheels need a 5/8" inner diameter. Preferably between 13 and 10 inches in total diameter.
mysteryboy28
New member
http://www.harborfreight.com/13-inch-x-5-inch-heavy-duty-pneumatic-tire-37767.html
they have an inner tube in them, and bearings are cheap to replace. i used a pair on a kart, worked fine.
they have an inner tube in them, and bearings are cheap to replace. i used a pair on a kart, worked fine.
souperman000
New member
http://www.harborfreight.com/13-inch-x-5-inch-heavy-duty-pneumatic-tire-37767.html
they have an inner tube in them, and bearings are cheap to replace. i used a pair on a kart, worked fine.
Yeah, I got those before and the hub, because it sticks out both sides, was a too long for the stub axle. We tried to cut it down on the lathe but we didn't have the correct cutting disc. I pretty much need to remove one whole side of the protruding nub.
jamyers
Well-known member
I held it closed by hand to start when cold, until I broke the plastic arm off the top
Then I swapped out the arm (have to remove the choke butterfly, but that's easy) for one with a nice long metal handle off of a junker carb I had lying around. Still have to choke it by hand though - thankfully it warms up rather quickly.
qtband
Well-known member
Are you sure those HF tires will hold up? BMI has these:
http://www.bmikarts.com/item/14570-6-Knobby-Tire-on-Front-Rim-260011-7758
http://www.bmikarts.com/item/14570-6-Knobby-Tire-on-Front-Rim-260011-7758
souperman000
New member
I'll look into those and others from BMI...Maybe I can get one for a Chritmas present
On a side note, what is the best way to remove removable loctite? I used blue loctite (well, actually HF blue thread locker) on the key way in my sprocket hub so it wouldn't move. Ironically, I need to move it because it is out of alignment.
I started with the torch, then got worried I might be welding it together (I know that probably wasn't even close to happening). What is the prescribed way? Torch and a mallet?
You generally just heat the area which has the loctite. It sort of melts, allowing you to unfasten whatever you have fastened
OzFab
Well-known member
... but, now that you've done that & let it cool again, it's probably hardened again. A few drops of acetone should soften it then, as masteryota suggested, lift it with a small chisel or screwdriver
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