My Electric E-Scooter Project

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KingCobra

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Hi: I was recently given this nice scooter after my neighbor said it's been sitting in his garage 'for 20 years' but I doubt that because I get nearly a full charge on his two 12 volt batteries that were in it. NOW, the part that don't make sense is that after removing and placing the two batteries on the charger, I noticed that the original scooter charger I found in the trunk along w/ other goodies and the manual says 36 volts and has a three pin plug. The plug leads my to believe it's got one black ground and two red hot wires ( one each for 18 volt batteries) and the motor says 36 Volt 350 watts. NOW, is it true that the ESC could be 24 volts? How to you identify a speed controller with no markings on it but maybe a minor 'circuit symbol'. Maybe only one company makes that ESC with that symbol.

I was also told later, when I said that I added a car battery in series to get 33.5 total votes, that it should take 34 to 35 volts to even trigger the esc. I know that the turn signal lights and blinker relay were bright and loud with the voltage added but still got a red LED on the power bar and no green. IF someone can help me, tell me what to do to figure out the battery voltage needed. My scooter looks like a stand-up scooter with a seat and trunk. They were rented or sold by from Sunshine Scooter that I found in Key West Florida. If I need to measure my battery compartment, let me know,but I suspect I need two 18v batteries.I am surprised that 33 volts didn't trigger it. Should I test the motor to see if it even works first? Thanks for your help.
 

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zogthegreat

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Hey CobraKing,

Finally something that I know about! I've been modding electric scooters for about 4 years now, here's what you need to go 36v. I'm basing my recommendations on your former/current builds, you don't build junk, so I won't recommend junk ;)!

New controller:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162311317469?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

This is a clone of the YK43B, it's a great controller that comes with a throttle. Two wires to the motor and two wires to the battery pack and your off. It comes straight from China, so it will take about two weeks to arrive.

36V 800W DC motor:

I usually go with the first one and make my own mount:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-M...wy3NZY4GN:sc:USPSPriority!33859!US!-1&vxp=mtr

https://www.ebay.com/itm/800W-36V-E...572030?hash=item3d4aa8a7be:g:nw0AAOSwb7NZvOv2

You could also go with a 36v 1000w, but the extra 200w doesn't justify the extra money:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MY1020-100...hash=item2cc4dc2170:m:mIkkTbaIBexf9QViDtuzG1w

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MY1020-100...150440?hash=item4d63669aa8:g:Dt8AAOSwaMhZu5R~

Batteries:

Since you have a welder, you can mod the battery mounts to take 3 x 12v 10ah batteries, eBay usually has the best price for SLA's with shipping:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ExpertPowe...hash=item211aa021b2:m:mAsUjzeN-TThvSV1HhXepyQ


Here's a link for my first Razor E300 mod, I tend to post a lot of pics:

http://forum.modifiedelectricscooters.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2192
 

KingCobra

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Thanks, I forgot about that!!! You da man!! I just want something to race around the neighborhood on and do it legally. :D

Maybe a couple 18v perhaps? My battery tray is 5.94" long X 3.86" wide X 3.86" high.

The pair of 12's that were in it were 58A GPS-12-12-F2

So, what you are saying is that I can eliminate that cobweb of wiring which is for the gauges and lights and just run off the throttle? That is a simple hook-up. Since I'm using the same brand motor, it just may bolt right up. 1000 watts was recommended for longevity.
 

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zogthegreat

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Thanks, I forgot about that!!! You da man!! I just want something to race around the neighborhood on and do it legally. :D

So, what you are saying is that I can eliminate that cobweb of wiring which is for the gauges and lights and just run off the throttle?

Yes, but "legally" wherever you are might require lights. But, yeah, much simpler wiring. If you need to run the lights, I'd recommend a DC to DC step down converter based on the LM317 chip:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Buck...919461?hash=item2826291925:g:umQAAOSwn-tZI0Zk

I know some people will recommend a converter based on the LM2596, but I've had better long term results with this one.

Maybe a coupe 18v perhaps? My battery tray is 5.94" long X 3.86" wide X 3.86" high.

The pair of 12's that were in it were 58A GPS-12-12-F2

18v isn't common for SLA's, normally you what is available in SLA format is 6v, 12, 24v.

The pair that you had were 12v 12ah's equaling 24v 12ah.

Depending on your budget, you could go with a lithium battery pack like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DuraB-36V-...608772&hash=item238c0636d1:g:UlQAAOSwQxdZdZJP

It's pricey, but you will have a much longer run time on your scooter and faster recharge time. I just snagged a 48v 12ah pack on eBay for $125.00! It needed a new BMS, (battery management system), which cost me $18.00 on eBay, (still waiting for the bleeping thing to arrive).

BTW, I forgot, you will also need a 36v charger for your SLA's:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Ch...307200&hash=item25e392401b:g:4bMAAOSwyltZVNKu

This should fit into your existing charging port, if not, post a pic of the port and I'll find you the one that you need.

Since I'm using the same brand motor, it just may bolt right up. 1000 watts was recommended for longevity.

LOL, every scooter seems to use the "same brand motor"! What you have, based on your picture, is a Unite 350w 36v motor, or a Chinese knock off of a Chinese knock off. Since the label says it's rated at 2400 rpm and these usually come with a 12 tooth sprocket on the motor and a 80 tooth on the rear sprocket and what looks like a 12" tire, you end up with a max speed of 12 -13 mph. If you want to go faster, you can change your sprockets.

As for the 1000w giving you more run time, technically, yes, but practical experience has showed me that there isn't much difference between the 800w and 1000w except the price. I do like the way a 1000w sticks out of the side, let's people know that you gotta custom ride! :thumbsup:
 

KingCobra

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I don't plan to run after dark and during the daytime , as long as it's not raining, we don't need lights and I'm not going to get caught in the rain on this thing :D Nope, no regulations on lights here. Heck, motorcycles don't need insurance UNLESS you are dumb enough to ride without a helmet....
Is there a 24v motor out there that is just as good as a 36 and if so, 800 to 1000 watts? I could buy a new pair of GPS or SLA batteries. Am I getting off track? Is a 36 v. motor more powerful? My guess is yes. Not doubting your intelligence but I do have to educate myself also so I know what I am buying to achieve my goal.
 

zogthegreat

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I don't plan to run after dark and during the daytime , as long as it's not raining, we don't need lights and I'm not going to get caught in the rain on this thing :D Nope, no regulations on lights here. Heck, motorcycles don't need insurance UNLESS you are dumb enough to ride without a helmet....

(chuckle), When you think about it, even with helmets, every member of this forum are at least slightly crazy!

BTW, another mod you can do is if has the crappy band brakes on the rear tire is upgrade them to disc brakes. I use these for the disk and mount:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mechanical...hash=item1a3a82c7db:m:mh3MJThOHiEQXtP4VF0mgXg

The center adapter spins right onto the threads for the band brake's drum on Razor products. I've never played with your brand, so measure first! Then I use this for the caliper:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mechanical...hash=item41d552a233:m:mvrehy4jL4iJ78A2p_ZGUyA

You'll need to fab a mount, but it shouldn't be a problem for you. I can send you a template that I use.
 

KingCobra

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I've never played with your brand, so measure first!

OK, that sounds kind of kinky ya know :D :p Ya make it sound like I'm a robot Bahahahahahahaha......my wife is rolling over laughing :D.... OK, I book marked the items in my Ebay Watch list :D..... But I like my plastic caliper...... OK, I know I need a digital one soon..... I think I will look into sprockets also and if need be, I have a friend that works at a machine shop and I bet he get's bored at night. Thanks for the info.
 

zogthegreat

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I don't plan to run after dark and during the daytime , as long as it's not raining, we don't need lights and I'm not going to get caught in the rain on this thing :D Nope, no regulations on lights here. Heck, motorcycles don't need insurance UNLESS you are dumb enough to ride without a helmet....
Is there a 24v motor out there that is just as good as a 36 and if so, 800 to 1000 watts? I could buy a new pair of GPS or SLA batteries. Am I getting off track? Is a 36 v. motor more powerful? My guess is yes. Not doubting your intelligence but I do have to educate myself also so I know what I am buying to achieve my goal.

OK, electric motors don't really translate into gas motor terminology, but here I go. Anyone with a better explanation, please feel free to correct me!

Electric motor have three things, volts, watts and amps.

Volts is how much "fuel" you have available. So 36v will give you a 1/3 "larger tank" than 24v. 48v will give you a 50% "larger tank".

Watts are simply how much power the windings on a motor can handle. The thicker the wire and the more windings that there are, the more amps the motor can handle.

Amps is what gives the motor/scooter it's push. The more amps you can dump into the motor, the more likely you are to pop a wheelie. The old YK43B that I had mentioned earlier, could toss 100a + to a motor, (some people measured up 160a). However, it is the same as hitting the gas hard in your car, the more amps that you use, the emptier you "fuel tank" , (i.e. your battery pack), will be, equaling less run time, just like a car.

Not doubting your intelligence but I do have to educate myself also so I know what I am buying to achieve my goal.

Everyone else doubts my intelligence, why should you be any different? ;)

If you want to educate yourself, a good place is Endless Sphere:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/index.php

They are mostly into electric road and mountain bike conversions, but the do have a section for electric scooters:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=35

I've learned a lot there, the members are friendly and gentle with noobs!

---------- Post added at 07:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:12 PM ----------

BTW, on my old Razor E300, 36v, 1000w with a YK43B, it would pop a wheelie if you hit the throttle too hard. My son, (he's 29), has a motorcycle license and it put him on his butt several times. However, my 12 year old daughter could ride it with no problems, (well, she ran into a wall once...), and would ride circles around my son, laughing at him the whole time!
 

zogthegreat

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Here's the pic of the motor mounts that I use for my scooter projects:



I make them with 1/8" mild steel plate. The support on the side with the red arrow pointing at it, was for a specific project and not really necessary.

(EDIT), I had also added the extensions for bolting the mount to the scooter. As I said, it was for a specific project and also not necessary. I usually cut them to fit where I have some room to move them around for chain adjustment.
 

KingCobra

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That looks a lot like my e-scooter but, mine is 24V...

Do they even make 18V batteries? My thought was 36V=3x12V...

Does your motor say 24 volts? Mine says 36 volts even though it has two 12 volt batteries. I was told that maybe the ESC can change something? I doubt it. Like I said earlier I hooked up 33 volts worth and it couldn't trigger the motor let a long the electric voltage gauge. I wish I could figure out why it has these two 12 volt batteries in it. I know that old man couldn't have done that and he said he parked it after it quit running for him. I'm puzzled. I'd like to see a photo of yours.(NEVER MIND<> I clicked on your link>> http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=26100 I will take real photos of mine. NOW, I did fail to mention that INSIDE the trunk with the 36 volt 3-pin charger, there was a ziploc bag with the so-called manual and I think (3) < de-soldered ?10 gauge? black wires. Now I know from factory, they did solder these wires on. I do not like soldered wires onto a battery when you could just as easily plug the jumpers on it. Maybe I need to test that motor before I do anything. With it on a 4 X 4 piece of wood, my rear tire is an inch off the floor. How many volts will it take to see if that motor will even turn? 12v? 24v? or a full 36v? And what about that ESC?? That is the mystery I spose. I cannot tell if it is the original but the ears have been cut half off and it was attached to the motor with double sided sticky tape. Is the ESC key to making 24v. work a 36v motor?? BUT, then there I am back to why is there a 36v charger?? Just what can an ESC do and is there 24v and 36v ESC's?? Thanks.
 

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KingCobra

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That looks a lot like my e-scooter but, mine is 24V...

Do they even make 18V batteries? My thought was 36V=3x12V...

I did have 2 big 12v batteries that filled the compartment with no room for another anywhere. believe me, I looked for a 3rd battery :D This thing could be a lot of fun touring historic parts here in Florida. And no license plate needed and legal ANY WHERE except maybe a PEDESTRIAN ONLY sidewalk. We have signs stating NO MOTORIZED VEHICLES BUT, I see people use motorized wheel chains all the time. Maybe electric motors are exempt<> and I am legally disabled....hmmmm
 

zogthegreat

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Is there any label on the controller?

What happens a lot of times with scooters like this is people go to a place like BatteryPlus and get told $70 each for new batteries. Then the go to Rural King and grab 2 12v batteries. Depending on the controller, some times it will work again, sometimes it won't.

You can connect the red and black wire on the motor directly to on of the 12v batteries and see if it will spin.
 

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Are the frame rails going to the rear wheels horizontal which IIRC designates a 24V model or on an angle which is for the 36V models.

* FYI: these little motors will run on 12V 24V 36V what ever you give 'em

Going over the designed voltage builds up heat & is NOT good on the motor but, they'll run :thumbsup:

** It's the speed controllers that are voltage critical

They won't function under a preset voltage & will "POP" if overvoltaged :ack2:
 
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