EagleTalons
Master JB Welder
I thought some old pumps were filled with oil. These being the older R12 users?
my centrifical super charger build
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anderkart
Moderator
I know the old Frigidaire A-6 compressors had an oil reservoir to lube its lower end, but they also had a few ounces of aditional Ester oil that would of origanaly been poured into the Receiver/Dryer, and then circulated through the system right along with the Freon.
I'd always assumed this was to help lube the compressors upper-end, so that was my reasoning for suggesting we might siphon a bit of the corect lubricant into the air-intake of our proposed AC Compressor when used as a small engine Supercharger.
I'd always assumed this was to help lube the compressors upper-end, so that was my reasoning for suggesting we might siphon a bit of the corect lubricant into the air-intake of our proposed AC Compressor when used as a small engine Supercharger.
TurtleMann14
Insane plan member
does a ac compressor have the flow needed?(i mean that depends on size of course)
Linksep
New member
AIR/Smog pump is perfectly sized for small low RPM industrial motor, plus IIRC they can run stupid high pressures. I'm kinda thinking the leaf-blower impeller is going to be your best bet if you don't want to fab a smog pump setup. A leaf blower impeller may not be capable of awesome pressure ratios, but it's engineered and scientifically designed by guys way above most of our pay-grades. Try to get your motor tuned and running properly on 1-2 PSI before you even think of tuning with 5+ PSI.
I happen to have a VERY sensitive air pressure gauge (called a Magnehelic gauge) that can measure about +/-1.45 PSI from atmospheric. Maybe later I'll go fire up the leaf blower and see if I can peg my gauge.
I happen to have a VERY sensitive air pressure gauge (called a Magnehelic gauge) that can measure about +/-1.45 PSI from atmospheric. Maybe later I'll go fire up the leaf blower and see if I can peg my gauge.
anderkart
Moderator
Heres my old (model VS) Paxton Supercharger. The inner pulley has an electrical/internal solinoid that changes the pulley width to under/overdrive it. I plan on instaling this on my old Y-block powered 56 Ford F-100.
lemegacool
got boost? :)
the compressor wheel looks pretty robust on that thing ♦
BriggsTwins
New member
sweet charger! bet they are expensive
anderkart
Moderator
Thanks. I just checked, the new Paxton kits are like 3 to 5 grand now. (wow!!!) Mines off an old 1950's Kaiser, I bought it for $100 back in the 80's. From what I remember mines only suposed to produce like 4 to 5lbs of boost in a 300cid engine.
Linksep
New member
I just tested my Echo gas blower (rated at 390 CFM / 135 MPH). It developed 15-16 inches H2O (0.54-0.58 PSI) at compressor stall (my hand was blocking the end of the tube).
Now my math may be a little off, but going from -0.5 psi at the valve to +0.5 psi is a difference of 1 psi which works out to about 7% when you factor in atmospheric pressure.
Assuming flow rate is linear with pressure and my various other assumptions are pretty close... You should pick up 5-10% more power with proper tuning by using a leaf blower impeller geared up 3:1 (10,000-12,000 rpm max impeller speed).
IMO 10% would be worth the investment if it worked, but it may be a little silly if you haven't already done other basic mods like porting, carb, exhaust, and maybe a cam. It could be a safe and reliable 5-10% bump, or it could be a proof-of-concept type thing that leads to a 25 PSI of connecting rod breaking smog pump supercharger.
Finally, make sure you spin the impeller the right way! In your original post I noticed you using an impeller that compresses to the middle.. You have to spin it clockwise relative to the first picture to get it to do anything.
This Toro leaf blower impeller gets air from the outside edge and squishes the air to the middle.
This Turbo impeller grabs air from the middle and compresses it to the outside.
If you spin either of these types of wheels the wrong way they're going to do next to nothing.
Now my math may be a little off, but going from -0.5 psi at the valve to +0.5 psi is a difference of 1 psi which works out to about 7% when you factor in atmospheric pressure.
Assuming flow rate is linear with pressure and my various other assumptions are pretty close... You should pick up 5-10% more power with proper tuning by using a leaf blower impeller geared up 3:1 (10,000-12,000 rpm max impeller speed).
IMO 10% would be worth the investment if it worked, but it may be a little silly if you haven't already done other basic mods like porting, carb, exhaust, and maybe a cam. It could be a safe and reliable 5-10% bump, or it could be a proof-of-concept type thing that leads to a 25 PSI of connecting rod breaking smog pump supercharger.
Finally, make sure you spin the impeller the right way! In your original post I noticed you using an impeller that compresses to the middle.. You have to spin it clockwise relative to the first picture to get it to do anything.
This Toro leaf blower impeller gets air from the outside edge and squishes the air to the middle.
This Turbo impeller grabs air from the middle and compresses it to the outside.
If you spin either of these types of wheels the wrong way they're going to do next to nothing.
motor_head
expert garbage picker
would work better to have it suck from the inside otherwise it" working against centrifical force instead of with it
Linksep
New member
I don't think centrifugal force is going to be much of an issue at 13 cfm air flow (about 8hp worth). If it was a huge deal then all the leaf-blowers would use turbo style impellers.
TurtleMann14
Insane plan member
most do...
with our pressure 13 cfm isn't possible. there has to be something that drives the air out
with our pressure 13 cfm isn't possible. there has to be something that drives the air out
skylartjsayers
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I know you have alot tied up in the fabrication of this project BUT, my supercharger is very simple and was ready to bolt on. It is a vaccum motor. The fan and case were the key. I reused the electric motor shaft too instead of having one fabbed for the application. Those things blow!! and they are light weight. The case is pre fabed... the blades push air... they have bearing... and if you use a grinder you can take all the copper off the electric motor shaft and reuse it because it is a perfect fit! The high power motors with enclosed blowers cost about 100 dollors used!!
Definately use a turbo with turbine housing removed and a toothed pulley on the spindle, using toothed means you dont need lots of tension for the belt, saving your bearings wearing too quick.
For bearing lubrication go total loss with a sealed resevoir feeding from the bottom to the turbo bearings and a pressure fitting into the lid tee'd from the actuator hose sp you get oil pressure at boost pressure. And collect the oil from the turbo outlet into another resevoir that you just pour back into the first one when you switch off. Turbos use high pressure low flow so a 1/2 litre tank will see you through a tank of fuel easy..
For bearing lubrication go total loss with a sealed resevoir feeding from the bottom to the turbo bearings and a pressure fitting into the lid tee'd from the actuator hose sp you get oil pressure at boost pressure. And collect the oil from the turbo outlet into another resevoir that you just pour back into the first one when you switch off. Turbos use high pressure low flow so a 1/2 litre tank will see you through a tank of fuel easy..
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