Murray Explorer live axel

[MaineMurray]

I just bought a new axel for the Explorer from powersports. Are they compatible to the 8in wheels also? The wheels are not in really good shape and won't come off the old axel.

 

[Denny]

Yes, you can put almost any size tire and wheel you want on.

 

[Hellion]

Simply put, the inside diameter (ID) of the wheel/rim must match the outside diameter (OD) of the axle, to fit.

The wheels are not in really good shape and won't come off the old axel.

Oh no. Sorry you had to buy a whole new axle just to have wheels and an axle that are separate pieces.

Rusted on, huh? Use penetrating fluid (WD-40, Liquid Wrench, Kroil etc) and soak the beelzebub out of the area where the wheels and axle meet. Do it liberally and often, maybe over a 1-2-3 day period. Gravity is your friend, so maybe up-end the axle so the penetrating oil has a chance to seep down into the rusted/seized joint.

Then try to hammer the wheels off the axle. Don't attempt to beat the wheels/tires off directly with a hammer, use a 12-18" piece of 2 x 4" and place it across the width of the wheel and tire and place the board as close to the axle as possible. Hammer on the wood, not the wheel. Try to use a decent hammer or mallet, bigger is better (). If that does not work, then try differential heating with a propane or MAPP gas torch.. That means you heat the hub of the wheel/rim independently of the axle; heat expands metal so you are trying to get it (the hub) to expand away from the axle and separate itself. There's probably dozens of videos on how-to on that popular video site.

Good luck!

 

[MaineMurray]

Simply put, the inside diameter (ID) of the wheel/rim must match the outside diameter (OD) of the axle, to fit.



Oh no. Sorry you had to buy a whole new axle just to have wheels and an axle that are separate pieces.

Rusted on, huh? Use penetrating fluid (WD-40, Liquid Wrench, Kroil etc) and soak the beelzebub out of the area where the wheels and axle meet. Do it liberally and often, maybe over a 1-2-3 day period. Gravity is your friend, so maybe up-end the axle so the penetrating oil has a chance to seep down into the rusted/seized joint.

Then try to hammer the wheels off the axle. Don't attempt to beat the wheels/tires off directly with a hammer, use a 12-18" piece of 2 x 4" and place it across the width of the wheel and tire and place the board as close to the axle as possible. Hammer on the wood, not the wheel. Try to use a decent hammer or mallet, bigger is better (). If that does not work, then try differential heating with a propane or MAPP gas torch.. That means you heat the hub of the wheel/rim independently of the axle; heat expands metal so you are trying to get it (the hub) to expand away from the axle and separate itself. There's probably dozens of videos on how-to on that popular video site.

Good luck!

Thanks. I'm well aware of having to take things apart and such. It doesn't help when one wheel threaded end was smashed and basicaly didnt have a nut on the end. The wheels were rusted/bent and the rim was thin from being bent and smashed with a hammer. What I wasn't to sure was if the wheel itself was tappered or was just a 1in with a 1/4 key way. Anyways. Thanks for the advice.

 

[bullseye670]

Just the 1" with the 1/4" keyway. No taper.

 

[Sauer_35]

I have an Explorer and I had to replace the complete axle assembly. Someone in their infinite wisdom welded the wheel and brake hub to the axle. It wasn’t too bad, less than 200 for everything.