Murray brake system

[Robert Osborne]

Just picked up a explorer and brake system was not there. I have already bought the mechanical brake caliber but I'm not understanding how to hook it up or what parts I need for it. I hooked up some 9wire from rod to caliber but once brakes are hit they do not come back. As in the peddle does not retract back to original position

 

[Kent]

There should be a spring at the base of your brake pedal to aid return. I'm not sure how a mechanical caliper sets up but I assume there should be a spring attached to the caliper as well (for return). If you add a couple photos to your post the members here will be able to advise you of exactly what to do. Good luck with your explorer.

 

[Robert Osborne]

There should be a spring at the base of your brake pedal to aid return. I'm not sure how a mechanical caliper sets up but I assume there should be a spring attached to the caliper as well (for return). If you add a couple photos to your post the members here will be able to advise you of exactly what to do. Good luck with your explorer.

This is what im working with.

 

[Kent]

I'm not sure if you can use a cable or wire set up to connect your foot pedal to the mechanical brake caliper. I don't think it is usually done in that manner. I think most people make the connection with a rod running to the rear and a linkage to transfer the pressure from your brake pedal to the caliper. The link below shows a set up for a drum style brake system. I think this is pretty much the same set up you need to fabricate.

4 Inch Go Kart Brake Band Assembly & Install - KartFab.com

Shows the 4 inch go kart brake band and drum setup from the brake band kit. Includes all parts: brake rod, and brake pedal. How to install brake assembly.

kartfab.com

You can also see a pedal return spring on their kart. Does your throttle pedal have a return spring? If so the brake pedal should be set up the same way.

I would go with hydraulic brake if you can afford it. They are stronger and much easier to install. Might be what your kart had on it before. I can't tell from the pixs. Is your kart a live axle?? Live axle karts appear easier to install brakes on as the brake doesn't have to connect to one of the wheel hubs. The live axle set up brakes the whole axle thus putting brake power into both rear wheels.

 

[Robert Osborne]

Return spring in the rod itself behind seat for throttle. Hydraulic be nice but trying to work with what I got. Driving me crazy trying to figure it out though

 

[mckutzy]

Linkage can be a pain with these brakes...But doable..
Can put a spring on the linkage, pedal and the caliper lever, all will help but if anything the pedal and the lever...

Since this is a new caliper, youll need to sand the pads to match the disc(be cautious as this is brake dust and can be bad stuff) and sand the disc to resurface the faces(can use a grinder with sanding disc to resurface)...
Make sure the caliper is lubricated in the grooves of the caliper and also on the bracket where it rides in, aswell as the lever and piston area(just a dab, thats all that is needed here...).

 

[Phinds88]

Ok so I know I'm a little late to the forum here but the Murray explorer go carts had a return spring built in to the caliper it self with another spring that ran to from the caliper arm to an adjustment rod that connects to the brake pedal rod right behind the seat. I've got 2 one I had to fab up a return spring system for the new caliper and one that's completely stock I'll try to add pics of it in the morning. Now trying to find the stock design caliper has been like pulling teeth. That's why I bought another one that would fit but needed some very simple fab work to make operate. All I did was take a small piece of flat stock drilled a hole on one end and welded it to the rear side of the frame directly behind the brake caliper then put a trampoline spring from the caliper arm to the flat stock so it would pull the arm back after I let off the brake. Works pretty well for my 6ft3 190lbs *** and even better for my kids. Also on another note this go cart was the same one my dad bought off a neighbor 22 or 23 years ago. We drove the hell out of it till motor got water in it then It sat at there house for years in the weeds till my sister and her husband took it to there place put a 212 predator on it they drove it for a few months ( needed brake caliper and new drive clutch that's why they quite riding it) till they gave it to me. I replaced caliper drive clutch and put a stage one kit on it. Also needed a seat so I swiped the passenger seat out of a wrecked 07 mustang the company I work for obtained ( tow truck driver here) welded it to the frame so slides worked and now it s back to running stopping and comfortable ( as they can be they ride like a brick) and I get to watch my kids enjoy it as much as I did at there age. I will try to post pics when i have light and time if yall are interested. Like I said I know I'm a little late on commenting. Also if anyone can find the original style caliper that came on it please attach the link. Thanks

 

[madprofessor]

Robert, you don't need to disassemble anything or sand anything down until you've got a working brake system. Then you can decide if it needs to be stopping better. For now all you need is a strong linkage setup made out of steel rods and any steel angle or other such as needed to work the linkage over to the caliper trigger. When you stomp on the pedal nothing should break (all steel parts), and it should pull hard on the caliper trigger. The caliper will relax the brake pads when you let off, but it won't pull back on anything at all, not supposed to.
For the return you need to make your own. A really strong spring at the pedal that will pull on it good and hard back to the rest position. Extra return power is better than not enough for making the spring return.