Mrc 2 stroke
- Thread starter kenny4903
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jandj
Active member
https://www.musgraveracing.com/about-designer/
MRC makes parts and builds motors.
I can’t ID yours offhand, ‘sid may recognize it.
You can always send MRC a pic and ask them.
MRC makes parts and builds motors.
I can’t ID yours offhand, ‘sid may recognize it.
You can always send MRC a pic and ask them.
Sorry I can't ID it either..
looks like an AKP *shrugs*
And if the parts are in good enough condition I can't tell,
how do the bearings look?
are the piston rings okay?
is the valve still woking?
is the head and the cylinder in good enough condition?
Do the piston and cylinder match (in size or is it a stock size piston and a oversize bored cylinder?)?
Any shot gaskets?..
several dozen questions need to be answered in order to answer the "will it run" question
Most important question:
You are aware that a rotary engine like that is terribly difficult to equip with a Clutch, right?
and that without a clutch in order to keep the engine running the kart MUST move!
(direct drive competition engine...)
So if you do not want to run this enigne in races but for fun on the local parking lot..
you might want to find a reed valve engine instead, or a piston port..
but the rotary valve you have is really only feasible for racing
unless you throw a few hundred bucks at it just to be able to buy a matching clutch and mount it
(which itself is also ~300 dollars)
just making sure ...
On the crankcase (lower left near the valve cover)
there should be a case label (usually stating the model amongst some other things)
let's take a look and we might be able to find you more details.
that musgrave link is incorrect I'm afraid
it's NOT musgrave racing but "Merlin Racing" a company founded by Umberto Merlin in Italy (198something)...
'sid
looks like an AKP *shrugs*
And if the parts are in good enough condition I can't tell,
how do the bearings look?
are the piston rings okay?
is the valve still woking?
is the head and the cylinder in good enough condition?
Do the piston and cylinder match (in size or is it a stock size piston and a oversize bored cylinder?)?
Any shot gaskets?..
several dozen questions need to be answered in order to answer the "will it run" question
Most important question:
You are aware that a rotary engine like that is terribly difficult to equip with a Clutch, right?
and that without a clutch in order to keep the engine running the kart MUST move!
(direct drive competition engine...)
So if you do not want to run this enigne in races but for fun on the local parking lot..
you might want to find a reed valve engine instead, or a piston port..
but the rotary valve you have is really only feasible for racing
unless you throw a few hundred bucks at it just to be able to buy a matching clutch and mount it
(which itself is also ~300 dollars)
just making sure ...
On the crankcase (lower left near the valve cover)
there should be a case label (usually stating the model amongst some other things)
let's take a look and we might be able to find you more details.
that musgrave link is incorrect I'm afraid
it's NOT musgrave racing but "Merlin Racing" a company founded by Umberto Merlin in Italy (198something)...
'sid
Sorry I can't ID it either..
looks like an AKP *shrugs*
And if the parts are in good enough condition I can't tell,
how do the bearings look?
are the piston rings okay?
is the valve still woking?
is the head and the cylinder in good enough condition?
Do the piston and cylinder match (in size or is it a stock size piston and a oversize bored cylinder?)?
Any shot gaskets?..
several dozen questions need to be answered in order to answer the "will it run" question
Most important question:
You are aware that a rotary engine like that is terribly difficult to equip with a Clutch, right?
and that without a clutch in order to keep the engine running the kart MUST move!
(direct drive competition engine...)
So if you do not want to run this enigne in races but for fun on the local parking lot..
you might want to find a reed valve engine instead, or a piston port..
but the rotary valve you have is really only feasible for racing
unless you throw a few hundred bucks at it just to be able to buy a matching clutch and mount it
(which itself is also ~300 dollars)
just making sure ...
On the crankcase (lower left near the valve cover)
there should be a case label (usually stating the model amongst some other things)
let's take a look and we might be able to find you more details.
that musgrave link is incorrect I'm afraid
it's NOT musgrave racing but "Merlin Racing" a company founded by Umberto Merlin in Italy (198something)...
'sid
This was the only 2 stroke available in my region. Because I can’t find any information on it I thought I would aks it here. Doesn’t the chain run on this? And how do you crank this up?
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Sure the engine is running the chain which runs the axle then wheels thus kart..
BUT it will NOT stop doing so unless you kill the engine.
How you start the engine?
Well simple push the kart until it ignites
remember the crank is permanently conencted to the wheels
if one moves the other has to as well
There are kart starters for that as well
kart is on a stand which rotates the rear wheel
then the kart is lowered to zip around.
There is good reason those engines do not have a starter nut or even rip cord..
you'd break something (maybe just your arm.. maybe the engine)
Frankly I'd say MRC is no longer providing any service..
the website is last updated 14 years ago (merlinkart.com)
Please do ask though..
send pictures of it together with the crank case numbers to info [at] merlinkart.com
I'll have my fingers crossed they still reply, but I doubt it slightly
ASk for the repair manual, spec sheet and FIA papers..
with that set you can test every single part of the engine if it's still race worthy;
and msot of all you could even compete in a regulated race (hence the FIA papers)
for now I'd say 5/10 hr maintenance schedule
every 5hrs a check, every ten a rebuild
(yes tedious, and expensive.. but three to four times the power compared to a twice the combustion volume industrial four stroke comes at a price)
'sid
BUT it will NOT stop doing so unless you kill the engine.
How you start the engine?
Well simple push the kart until it ignites
remember the crank is permanently conencted to the wheels
if one moves the other has to as well
There are kart starters for that as well
kart is on a stand which rotates the rear wheel
then the kart is lowered to zip around.
There is good reason those engines do not have a starter nut or even rip cord..
you'd break something (maybe just your arm.. maybe the engine)
Frankly I'd say MRC is no longer providing any service..
the website is last updated 14 years ago (merlinkart.com)
Please do ask though..
send pictures of it together with the crank case numbers to info [at] merlinkart.com
I'll have my fingers crossed they still reply, but I doubt it slightly
ASk for the repair manual, spec sheet and FIA papers..
with that set you can test every single part of the engine if it's still race worthy;
and msot of all you could even compete in a regulated race (hence the FIA papers)
for now I'd say 5/10 hr maintenance schedule
every 5hrs a check, every ten a rebuild
(yes tedious, and expensive.. but three to four times the power compared to a twice the combustion volume industrial four stroke comes at a price
)'sid
Thank you for the reply.Sure the engine is running the chain which runs the axle then wheels thus kart..
BUT it will NOT stop doing so unless you kill the engine.
How you start the engine?
Well simple push the kart until it ignites
remember the crank is permanently conencted to the wheels
if one moves the other has to as well
There are kart starters for that as well
kart is on a stand which rotates the rear wheel
then the kart is lowered to zip around.
There is good reason those engines do not have a starter nut or even rip cord..
you'd break something (maybe just your arm.. maybe the engine)
Frankly I'd say MRC is no longer providing any service..
the website is last updated 14 years ago (merlinkart.com)
Please do ask though..
send pictures of it together with the crank case numbers to info [at] merlinkart.com
I'll have my fingers crossed they still reply, but I doubt it slightly
ASk for the repair manual, spec sheet and FIA papers..
with that set you can test every single part of the engine if it's still race worthy;
and msot of all you could even compete in a regulated race (hence the FIA papers)
for now I'd say 5/10 hr maintenance schedule
every 5hrs a check, every ten a rebuild
(yes tedious, and expensive.. but three to four times the power compared to a twice the combustion volume industrial four stroke comes at a price
'sid
I will take further pictures tomorrow and send them to the company and hope for a reply.
Since I'm really new to this, what kind of clutch would I need to put on this system? 4 Stroke is pretty straight-forward but 2 stroke is something else
Well, you will need a two stroke racing clutch..
Horstmann for example:
http://www.horstmanclutches.com/Clutch-Complete-2-cycle_c_7.html
this is about the cheapest they have:
http://www.horstmanclutches.com/Rev-Grip_c_27.html
and this likely the most common:
http://www.horstmanclutches.com/HDC-5A_c_26.html
And that one is the only one you could mount (swapping your axle against a 50mm metric one)
without additional hassle:
http://www.horstmanclutches.com/Axle-Clutch-50mm-140002_c_111.html
I did mention they're expensive, right?
Now, you COULD take the aircraft approach...
essentially it's a belt drive like seen on Hirth engines for ultralight and para motors..
That then powers the clutch which sits on the driven jackshaft (and that then moves the axle)
takes up a lot of space (hence Horstmann amde an axle clutch instead)
I'm in the same boat..
I have three Rotax DSA (or DSB... can't remember) sitting around and a race kart to go with it..
also rotary valves, also no clutch for me (well not easily that is)
And since I do not intend to race .. I have essentially no use at all for it.
So personally I'll wait for a KT100 (ideally with clutch preinstalled) to fall from a tree or something ..
But yeah there are options, few and expensive ones..
so make perfectly sure the engine is still in good enough condition,
otherwise Yamaha KT100 is your best possible find..
it's reasonably priced, it's still more or less easily maintainable (parts are available, documentations are mostly online)
And there are plenty around.
'sid
Horstmann for example:
http://www.horstmanclutches.com/Clutch-Complete-2-cycle_c_7.html
this is about the cheapest they have:
http://www.horstmanclutches.com/Rev-Grip_c_27.html
and this likely the most common:
http://www.horstmanclutches.com/HDC-5A_c_26.html
And that one is the only one you could mount (swapping your axle against a 50mm metric one)
without additional hassle:
http://www.horstmanclutches.com/Axle-Clutch-50mm-140002_c_111.html
I did mention they're expensive, right?
Now, you COULD take the aircraft approach...
essentially it's a belt drive like seen on Hirth engines for ultralight and para motors..
That then powers the clutch which sits on the driven jackshaft (and that then moves the axle)
takes up a lot of space (hence Horstmann amde an axle clutch instead)
I'm in the same boat..
I have three Rotax DSA (or DSB... can't remember) sitting around and a race kart to go with it..
also rotary valves, also no clutch for me (well not easily that is)
And since I do not intend to race .. I have essentially no use at all for it.
So personally I'll wait for a KT100 (ideally with clutch preinstalled) to fall from a tree or something ..
But yeah there are options, few and expensive ones..
so make perfectly sure the engine is still in good enough condition,
otherwise Yamaha KT100 is your best possible find..
it's reasonably priced, it's still more or less easily maintainable (parts are available, documentations are mostly online)
And there are plenty around.
'sid
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