Motorized drift trike project

[ChrisT]

There's some waste land near where I work with a bit of a track on it so I take it up there - the video at the top of the last page is me going round it, there's googlemap view of the area below, workshop is top LH corner.
The track isn't as defined as shown on the map, it's more overgrown and has enough loose surface so sliding the corners isn't a problem.

Got a 'cycle computer' to use as a speedo along with it's max speed recall function - managed 30.4mph

 

[ChrisT]

Sheared another exhaust stud off while 'playing' the other day, don't think the length of the exhaust pipe is helping as it's quite thick tube which, despite the bracing, does shake about.

Struggled to remove the broken stud, other one came out with no problems, but couldn't shift this one so drilled it all out and re-tapped the hole to take an M8 bolt, used a 10.9 grade bolt too so that might help.

Cut down the exhaust and replaced with a stainless bend.

Don't know if it's the new tailpipe design but achieved a new high speed of almost 34mph

Started work on the rear brakes, there's just enough room below the pull start to fit them in. Found a suitable disc in the workshop, just needs turning down some more to whatever thickness the calipers take, once I've got them.
Made an axle bracket too, the centre tube will be welded in position once I've figured out the best place.

 

[ChrisT]

Little update, decided rather than try and machine a brake disc to just get one from a mini-moto and caliper to match.
Had to make up a carrier to fix it to the axle and then weld in a section of angle for the caliper to mount to.
Wasn't sure the cast lug for the cable on the caliper would be up to the abuse it'll get so made up a more substantial bracket to mount to the frame, along with an adjuster from an M8 caphead bolt.

Seems to work ok, can lock up the wheel which is good

 

[landuse]

Nice work!

 

[ChrisT]

Been having a slight problem with the chain, when rotating it goes from slack to tight, guess something's slightly off, either the axle tube or the sprocket carrier.
So rather than finding the root of the problem I opted to slacken the chain off so it wasn't tight at any point and add a chain tensioner.

Managed to break it quite quickly - bent the arm and stretched the spring, so straightened out the arm and added reinforcement and got a better spring.
Photo's not very good but the spring's now hooked round a bolt through the arm, pulled round the frame and the other end attached to another bolt wound into the tube.

Also got some better fuel pipe, the stuff I had seems to have reacted with the petrol - the outside's swelled up and the inside become brittle. That, along with a new fuel tap, means it no longer leaks fuel which is nice.

 

[bigair49]

cool I like this one.for your chain problem I would start by checking to see if the sprockets are lined up. I do this by taking off the chain and using a ruler or suitable straight edge put the straight edge on the axle sprocket so it is flat on one side and slid it up the the engine sprocket this way you will see if they are in line with each other and also if they are parallel with each other the slightest bit either way will make it easy for the chain to jump off
hope this helps

 

[machinist@large]

Been having a slight problem with the chain, when rotating it goes from slack to tight, guess something's slightly off, either the axle tube or the sprocket carrier.
So rather than finding the root of the problem I opted to slacken the chain off so it wasn't tight at any point and add a chain tensioner.

Managed to break it quite quickly - bent the arm and stretched the spring, so straightened out the arm and added reinforcement and got a better spring.
Photo's not very good but the spring's now hooked round a bolt through the arm, pulled round the frame and the other end attached to another bolt wound into the tube.

Also got some better fuel pipe, the stuff I had seems to have reacted with the petrol - the outside's swelled up and the inside become brittle. That, along with a new fuel tap, means it no longer leaks fuel which is nice.

While the tensioner is a good idea, it looks like (from your pictures) that you currently have it installed on the load side of your chain- i.e. the drive side when moving. For a spring loaded tensioner to be of any help, it needs to be on the unloaded side of the chain when in operation. That side under load want's to be a strait shot from the driven sprocket to the drive; the other side, being under no load is usually where you would put a spring tensioer.

 

[ChrisT]

Yeah, I kinda knew that but couldn't figure out a simple way of mounting it the other side with the chain guard being there in close proximity to the chain, hoped this might work instead......

 

[ChrisT]

cool I like this one.for your chain problem I would start by checking to see if the sprockets are lined up.

Got round to checking this today, they were slightly out - the sideways action must have pushed the axle over, that's now sorted.

Noticed one of the axle bearings has a lot of play in it too, not surprising as they were designed for roller shutter doors and not the high speed they've been experiencing, will upgrade/replace soon...

And V.3 chain tensioner is looking better, just enough room under the chain cover to fit it in, mounted to the chain cover bracket.
Not shown in the pictures but the spring runs to a lug I've welded to the other side of the bracket, nice and neat and removable as a complete unit.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

ATTEMPTING to unlock at OP's request. ChrisT, I apologize. I'm not sure if it's a software glitch or what. I'm gonna get out and come back in and see if it takes this time.

 

[ChrisT]

Thanks Doc.

Not had chance to do anything with this project for a while but the other day on ebay I found a rear axle assembly from a ride on mower with a nice looking diff.

Stripped it down and cleaned up it says Peerless 100 on it, which sounds like it should be up to the job from what I've read on the interwebs.

Made up an axle sprocket carrier and bolted it to one side and fitted a brake disc to the other.

More to come..........

 

[ChrisT]

Trial fitting shows that it does just fit under everything, will probably lower the axle and move it back a bit for a little more clearance, there's room to slide the motor back if need be.

I've made up some spacers for the brake caliper so it'll fit over the new thicker disc.

Also cut down the mower frame that contains the bushes so I can use them to support the diff either side.

 

[zbuck]

I do not know if the diff drive was a good idea. You went from both wheels driving to one wheel driving. Where as when one tire starts slipping the other tire will go to drive. Unless you welded the spider gears in the diff or some other method to make it posi traction?

 

[ChrisT]

When I had both wheels driving it wouldn't turn on anything but loose surfaces so I changed it to one wheel drive which solved the turning issue but meant it would only drift RH turns.
My theory with the diff is if I lean into the corner it will hopefully unload the outside wheel enough for it to lose traction and, as it's only an open diff, spin up that wheel........

 

[ChrisT]

Bearings I had been using had failed on one side so found some replacements but instead of using the bulky cast casing they were in I've bought some pressed steel carriers and made up some brackets to attach to the frame, once I've decided on how best to widen it.

Dug out some 30m steel bar to match the new bearings, cut it down and machined it out to fit over the 19mm diff shaft -secured with roll pins at the moment.

Also had to make up a 3mm spacer so the hubs would fit on the new axle.

 

[ChrisT]

Hubs attached to axle with 8mm shoulder bolts.

New bearing carriers joined to frame with sections of tube, just tacked until I know it's all square.

Brake caliper test fitted along with cable, seems to work - may have to make up an under tray to protect it.

 

[ChrisT]

Decided that the with the brake caliper located where it is now it could probably do with a bit of protection from debris/stones/rocks etc to welded on a couple of brackets and cut a piece of thin steel sheet to rivet on between them.

All additions to the frame are now welded up so threw a bit of black paint on just to tidy it up a little - still tempted to do it a lairy colour like Kawasaki green....

Got a new longer chain as I've moved the axle down and back, and I wanted to move the engine back a little more so the seat is quite so far forward.

 

[landuse]

Cool. The trike looks pretty dirty. Did you get to ride it?

 

[ChrisT]

Thanks, no the dirt's still on there from last xmas I think, not had chance to take it out yet the engine's not running too well........

 

[dengieboy]

nice machine

your doing a good job there mate cracking looking machine keep up the good work