Kartin’ kid
Active member
I don’t currently have the means to check the ring gap on my new piston. Would it be possible to reuse the stock rings that have already been properly clearanced?
Most power for the money?
- Thread starter Kartin’ kid
- Start date
Karttekk
Well-known member
Any chance you could rent a flywheel puller from a local Autozone then return it?
This will work if you can scrape up $20.00.
8 in. Three-Jaw Gear Puller
Amazing deals on this 8In Three-Jaw Puller at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
Karttekk
Well-known member
I haven't read this whole post but have you run a hone through the cylinder to knock the glaze of of the cylinder walls and create a cross hatch pattern? I would at least do that if possible. You'll need a feeler gauge to check the end gap. Push the ring into the cylinder, make sure it's square then see if you have a .006 gap or so. Feeler gauges shouldn't set you back much.
Kartin’ kid
Active member
Thanks for the tips
Kartin’ kid
Active member
Does anyone know what spec these nuts should be torqued to? (Right, the top smaller metal nut. Left, the “nut“? That holds the rocker down)
karl
Well-known member
There is not a torque spec for the lower nut thing.
It's position is determined by the valve lash.
Once the lash is set at TDC, the nut on top is tightened to 7 ft/lbs while holding the bottom nut still with a 14mm wrench.
I lightly tighten the top nut up, and turn the lower nut until the feeler gauge fits , but not tight.
When the nut is torqued down. the lash will tighten up a bit.
It's position is determined by the valve lash.
Once the lash is set at TDC, the nut on top is tightened to 7 ft/lbs while holding the bottom nut still with a 14mm wrench.
I lightly tighten the top nut up, and turn the lower nut until the feeler gauge fits , but not tight.
When the nut is torqued down. the lash will tighten up a bit.
Kartin’ kid
Active member
I assume you mean it fits in between the top and bottom nut? And what size feeler gauge?
Denny
Canned Monster
Feeler gauge should go between tip of rocker and top of valve when both valves are closed at tdc.
The best advice anyone could give you right now is to stop messing with the engine before you screw something up. Start doing some research on the World Wide Web about what all the parts are called and how they function in relation to one another. I’m not trying to be mean, or put you down in anyway or discourage you.
We were all in your shoes at one time believe it or not. Even me!
But if you are to be successful in hopping up this engine there is some basic knowledge you must have. Knowing what the parts are called and what their function is just a couple of them.
You should buy the book How to Rebuild Your Chevy Engine and read it over cover to cover a couple of times. You will learn a lot about correct procedures. Then get the book How to Hot Rod Your Small Block Chevrolet. There is a lot of great engine theory in there.
The best advice anyone could give you right now is to stop messing with the engine before you screw something up. Start doing some research on the World Wide Web about what all the parts are called and how they function in relation to one another. I’m not trying to be mean, or put you down in anyway or discourage you.
We were all in your shoes at one time believe it or not. Even me!
But if you are to be successful in hopping up this engine there is some basic knowledge you must have. Knowing what the parts are called and what their function is just a couple of them.
You should buy the book How to Rebuild Your Chevy Engine and read it over cover to cover a couple of times. You will learn a lot about correct procedures. Then get the book How to Hot Rod Your Small Block Chevrolet. There is a lot of great engine theory in there.
Kartin’ kid
Active member
Found a great video by the Grey goat garage that basically tells me everything I need to know
Kartin’ kid
Active member
Can anyone recommend where to get plastigauge?
Willie1
Active member
Not sure if the "box store" auto parts stores like AutoZone or Advance Auto stocks it, but a full-service parts store with a machine shop should have it. You need to know what clearance range you are checking - Plastigauge comes in different colors to check different dimensions.
Kartin’ kid
Active member
Thanks for the words of advice. Believe it or not I’ve been doing quite a bit of research and learning for the past year or so and it’s really paid off especially in the past few days. As I’ve begun to tear down and rebuild this engine (I’ve been documenting the process and will soon post it on the “souped up yard kart“ thread) I’ve been surprised to realize that in the process of removing everything down to the bare block I was able to name all but one component and even that one I knew where it went and what did(This was unexpected for me). I’ve learned a fair amount but I have so much more to learn and I’m excited to! I’m making sure to take my time and take it seriously throughout this whole process being as careful as possible and will continue to do so. As for doing research online, This is hands down the best overall resources out there that I found and that is why I often come with basic questions as they can quickly be answered by people with experience such as yourself. I’ll continue learning and trying my hardest to be safe and not blow anything up
. Thanks for the book suggestions. I’ll be sure to check them out
Kartin’ kid
Active member
What grit valve grinding compound would y’all recommend?
Kartin’ kid
Active member
Alrighty then. When I looked at a listing online it had options for various “grits“ but I’ll get whatever they have at the actual store if that’s what you say
karl
Well-known member
Most of the store bought grinding compounds are "multi grit" , they start at around 120 grit, and
then grinds down to 150, 180, then 220. You can also thin it with water further.
Those will do fine for your needs. But typically if Im putting together new parts and are lapping
just to check if things are correct, I use loctite clover compound, fine 280 grit.
then grinds down to 150, 180, then 220. You can also thin it with water further.
Those will do fine for your needs. But typically if Im putting together new parts and are lapping
just to check if things are correct, I use loctite clover compound, fine 280 grit.
Denny
Canned Monster
I’ve got cans of Clover that are so old the grits are listed 1-5. They are green cans with a Green 4 leaf clover on it. They probably go back to the 1920s atleast.
Kid now you need to learn what each part does. Like a crankshaft turns reciprocal motion to rotational motion, etc. they why it does what it does and how it effects the parts around it. And so forth.
Kid now you need to learn what each part does. Like a crankshaft turns reciprocal motion to rotational motion, etc. they why it does what it does and how it effects the parts around it. And so forth.
Kartin’ kid
Active member
Is this an acceptable amount of metal/color after a 20 minute break in period Using Brand New 10W-30 oil? (Pic was taken with flash if it matters)
Kartin’ kid
Active member
(No zinc either)
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Unless the camera flash is reflecting a starry starry night, Vincent, then may my shout of alarm deafen you. Just 20 minutes? No zinc, ...................Royal Purple 11487 Royal Purple Break-In Oil | Summit Racing.............., just straight-up 10W-30 weight? Wow.
Guessing you read and believed the owner manual that common 30 weight oil is good enough for the break-in as well as afterward, and you only had some 10W-30, which by the way is an acceptable weight oil for 20 minutes of partial-throttle break-in.
Simply put, that's way too much shiny stuff in the oil. Time to order a full set of gaskets first, Predator 212cc Performance Gasket Set,Fits Non Hem 69730 (Best on the Market) | eBay, and then pull off the sidecover and head of that engine to look for where the metal came from. Others here will tell you what scratching/scarring, blackened surfaces, etc., each in certain places can mean. I haven't got the heart for it.
Guessing you read and believed the owner manual that common 30 weight oil is good enough for the break-in as well as afterward, and you only had some 10W-30, which by the way is an acceptable weight oil for 20 minutes of partial-throttle break-in.
Simply put, that's way too much shiny stuff in the oil. Time to order a full set of gaskets first, Predator 212cc Performance Gasket Set,Fits Non Hem 69730 (Best on the Market) | eBay, and then pull off the sidecover and head of that engine to look for where the metal came from. Others here will tell you what scratching/scarring, blackened surfaces, etc., each in certain places can mean. I haven't got the heart for it.