mini, mini bike build, 2nd thread.

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r97

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so this is the knew thread to replace the old one that was deleted.
i'll just throw the specs out there again,

here are the plans,
http://www.diygokarts.com/bike-plans/pocket-bike.html

power:
66cc 2 stroke engine with manual clutch 3+hp, push start.

wheels:
8.8" OD dia, 8:1 gear ratio

performance:
max speed of 15mph, haul me up the hill's on my street

budget:
$250, can go a bit over if needed, but would prefer not too.

brakes:
cable operated scrub brake, operated by a foot pedal near the pegs on the front wheel. thanks to toystory, robbie, and blaz

paint/styling:
not sure, maybe orange, or yellow? possibly POR15 (haven't checked price yet, but its prob wayyyyyy to expensive) main idea is to look vintage, or at least not to look like a mini rice rocket/normal pocket bike. i'm also gonna attempt building a decent looking seat. foot pegs on front wheel.

controls:
clutch lever, brake pedal, twist grip throttle.

tools:
the usual hand tools, drill press, angle grinder, chop saw, propane torch, Lincoln 88amp flux core welder. i will also use the tubing notcher templates.

frame:
cut and weld, no bends (can't afford a pipe bender). 1/2" sch40 steel plumbing pipe.

i hope to start construction soon, but we will see when exactly soon is.... :(
 

bighead

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POR15 would not be all that much if you used the starter kit. POR15 sales a starter kit for about $16 to $18 plus shipping. With a 1/2 pint you could do 3 mini bikes for POR15 goes a long way. Remember if you use this kit that this line of POR15 is not UV Stable. You need to top coat when your POR15 rust paint is still tacky. Also do not skip out on the POR15 chemicals Marine Clean and Metal Ready.

It is best if you sand blast the frame. Or remove all the paint to bare metal and let it rust for a week. Lightly sand and use the 3 step POR15 process. If you did this you will have a rock hard finish that you can beat with a pipe wrench and still look good. (POR15 does not like new shinny surfaces)

Cost

POR15 Starter Kit $28 with shipping (check your local Auto paint store, they may have the kit)
Rustoleum rattle can for top coat $5
Bare metal sanding $free
Let rust $free
Sand Blast ?????

Not bad being a rattle can job would be about $20 with primer.

Also look into a product call POR15 Hardnose Paint. You can also brush it on and is rock hard. No need for top coating with Hardnose. The stuff is to tuff to even chip. It about $32 a pint though.

I find both these products amazing stuff. I could not and failed to even chip them while beating with hammers and pipe wrenches. Ya amazing in my book.

What ever you do DO NOT get any on you. If you do it will take weeks before it will come off. The last pics are some of the things I used POR15 on.

 

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Imbo

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im just posting this so im subscribed again haha. but again i look forward to seeing how this goes
 

bighead

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i just looked at POR15.com, is the hard-nose paint he only one that has colorful colors like yellow, orange, purple, and green? because i would like to use a color like that, but i do not wish to spend over 35 bucks.

@redsox, i'm using http://cgi.ebay.com/ZB-SILVER-SLANT-80CC-BICYCLE-MOTOR-ENGINE-KIT-BIKE-/380306570269?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588c09bc1d#ht_7382wt_1139 engine

Yes Hardnose has the colors. You should be able to get some for $35. I would go with hardnose if your painting a gas tank. Gas will not have any effect on Hardnose. You can brush it on with a toothbrush and it would still look good for POR15 self levels. You will not see any brush marks.

I am sure there are cheaper ways. But not everyone has spray guns and all that. POR15 is like powder coat in a can that anyone can do. Also your never chip your paint again. Even if you tried! Thats worth $35 to me anyday. The moped above rides on the front bumper of my camper van. Before POR15 it looked like a shot gun hit the paint job. After 2 years with POR15 not one single chip.

PS. My sandblaster guy told me that POR15 is a lot harder to remove than powder coat. So pick the color you want the first time.
 

bighead

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Could you wire wheel off POR15?

To be honest I have not tried. I would think a wire wheel would do nothing but skuff it up. If I was to remove it I would try burning it off with heat. Then scrapping the rest off. My sandblaster guy does not like the stuff.

I looked on the web and found some threads on removing it. Here are some of the post.

Youll have to sandblast it off, its tough stuff. I tried doing a differential (brushed it on) while it was on the car many years ago trying to avoid a frame off. Long story short the body came off, the rearend...I took it to a sandblasting place. They tried to charge me extra and accused me of lying about it being painted and not powdercoated

Last winter, I decided to powder coat a couple parts that I had applied POR15 on. Impossible in my blasting cabinet with medium grit aggregate! I ended up using a aircraft paint remover then using the blasting cabinet for final cleaning.

Man, that stuff if TOUGH!


A small cold chisel, a hammer, and a lot of time will do that job.

put in a big oven and set at 900 degree..it will burn por 15 off
there is a place in dallas, texas that do all that..they are into powder coat too


A right angle grinder is the only way I've found to remove por15

I have used an air grinder with 80 grit to remove it, hard but not impossible.


POR15 is in automotive paint that produces a hard, rust-resistant finish. When it comes time to remove the paint, for whatever reason, the process is nearly the same as with any other paint, but it requires a little extra time and manual work. The surface of POR15 paint can have an almost rock-hard finish, which makes it difficult for paint stripper to penetrate.

So ya pick the right color the first time. This stuff is no joke. I am going to do a video trying to destroy a POR15 finish. The stuff is amazing. I painted a rusted fence post pipe. I beat it with a hammer until the pipe bent. The por15 was fine with a few little scuff marks. I also painted a soda can. I crushed the can flat and the por15 did not peel. I also painted a 1 foot flat steel bar stock. I put the stock in my vice and bent it over flat. Then bent it back flat. The por15 did not peel. I shot the same bar stock with my pellet gun many times. Not one single nick with 12 pumps and lead pellets.

If you painted your mini bike with POR15. Your motor plate would look new for life. You would not have to worry about gas eating your paint job away. If for some reason you had to hammer on your frame. You would not have to worry about chipping your paint. If you had to do a repair that requires a weld. You can just sand and redo the por15. Powder coat you can't touch up easy. How easy it it to scratch your fork tubes? with POR15 just forget about them.

The main con it has is people do not follow the derections to the tee. POR15 is not a product that you can skip out on. It will fail if not done right. Thats why I stated to let your frame rust for a week. I was not kidding.

Here is POR15 catalog. Go to page 11 and look how they smash,pound and bend there product. Also read page 10. They make it in a few colors now.

http://www.por15.com/catalog.asp

Good luck in what ever you do. I am sure it will look good regardless of the paint you use.

PS. Redsox985 You will learn not to ask me questions about POR15. LOL
 

MatthewBasaraba

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THIS is what I use to remove paint. Put it on with a cheap foam brush from Walmart and let it set for 20 minutes. I used to use this when rebuilding bikes and it would take it all the way to the metal, including emblems, in about 10 minutes. You just let it sit and wipe it off. Amazing stuff.

Matthew
 
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