Mikuni V22 tuning assistance

sbagnato

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Yup, that makes sense. That (finally) crossed my mind this morning. "Toughest" part will be pulling out all the welding stuff, as I haven't welded anything in a few years. But I will get to that today or tomorrow and report back. Fingers crossed that my assumption on the carb is correct, and fixing this cable is truly the only remaining issue.
 

Jimmyjoe

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Last year, I pulled my go kart out of storage and went about fixing it up. While I had run it earlier in the year, it sat long enough, with fuel in the carb bowl, that the entire carb was shot. Along with some other upgrades, I replaced the stock Predator 212 carb with a Mikuni V22. I know that it is not a true Mikuni carb, however, I know it should work. I got everything installed early this year but ended up setting it aside (stored in the garage).

This week, I went back to it, and last night, I was finally able to start it. I worked on it more this evening, but now I am stuck. The engine will start with the 'choke' (fuel enrichment) on, but if I turn it off, even after the engine is warm, the engine dies. With the choke on, if I give it any throttle, it dies. And it sounds, and feels, like the idle is too high. What I mean by this is that, not only is it louder, but the RPM's are high enough that the torque converter is starting to engage, and the kart wants to pull forward.

I've already disassembled and reassembled the carb multiple times in the last two days. It is clean. The main jet is brand new. The other jet is clean and not clogged. The fuel is fresh and flowing into the carb (the bowl is full). It really does not seem to matter how I play with the adjustment screws either. At the moment, I'm really not sure how to proceed. Again, it starts, and will stay running with the choke on. But I can't turn the choke off, and I can't give it any throttle at all. The symptoms would point to it running lean, but again, the main jet is new (and large), and fuel is actively flowing...
Have a brand X I'm 22 slide style carb. On mine there is an adjustment screw or set screw on one side and the fuel air set screw on the bottom just infront of the bowl closest to the engine block. All the way closed then back off a half to three quarters of a turn. The top one closed then back off 1-1/2 to 2 turns. Get it to runn weather you drive it or have the back wheels off the ground. Let the engine warm up. Then adjust the set screw on the top to desired idle. Anything more on the screw on the bottom the engine would bog when accelerating. Then I would feather the petal till it ran properly.
 

sbagnato

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Okay nice thanks for the suggestions. I was able to get the bracket adjusted the other day. Been a crazy week, so I have had the time to start it again and work on the tuning. I'm hoping to actually do so today, so I'll report back when I do. Thanks everyone for your assistance so far.
 
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