Mechanical Disc Brakes

[Filipe]

Can you specify what your indicating? What part of the caliper?

 

[DS13]

Can you specify what your indicating? What part of the caliper?

well the lever and adjustment screw look like they have chips in it.
it also looks gunked up.

 

[Filipe]

the gunk is lubricant. the chip is a worn down area..is it not supposed to have a rounded area? I can't remember how my dingo mech brake was...

 

[mr.matt]

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=150916942951

I just purchased this setup. The frame I purchase was equipped with hydraulic brakes already so it had a brake rotor, but kits can be purchased that have a rotor than can be found also. Cheapest way to go to, kits with the rotor are about 47 I think

 

[Filipe]

thanks for the note Mitch. i'd like to keep it at a disc brake setup, for now at least.


Does replacing both pads require disassembling the rear axle?

 

[OzFab]

Does replacing both pads require disassembling the rear axle?

If you have the caliper off, you should be able to replace both pads

 

[Swabbster]

It's like 30$ for a whole new calliper, no point in trying to fix your old one

 

[Filipe]

Got up close and personal with the caliper today...I cleaned out the gunk. The curved spaces are there from factory. They are still black, like the rest of the lever. The pre-load bolt wasn't too smooth so I ground it down a bit.

Thanks Swabbster, but I didn't want to spend an extra 28 bucks if I didn't have to.

Just gotta grab new pads.


The issue I'm having with the other pad is that there isn't enough clearance for me to get my fingers in there. I might not change it at all.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

I didn't want to spend an extra 28 bucks if I didn't have to.

Just gotta grab new pads.

.

That's the DIY spirit- Attaboy!

With regards to fittin' yer fingers in there- screwdriver, maybe?

 

[Filipe]

LOL, thanks toystory.

I'll give it a shot when the new pads come in...don't want to take it out and possibly break it. It's snowing here right now, and I've been dying to get some time on the snow with the cart, so I glued the pad for temporary brakes.

In regards to making sure I get the right size pads, does anyone know what "OD" means? I.e. http://www.bmikarts.com/item/Brake-Pad-400289-6217

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Outside Diameter.

 

[Filipe]

What measurement is that on this thing?

 

[mckutzy]

If it is the same as mine, this description is the same.


Brake Pad (400289)

Mechanical Brake Caliper Replacement Pad
1.6" OD (on rounded sides) x 1.283" (on flat sides)
.337" thick

Also, above(your pic), is this the pad or is this the plate underneath the moving pad?
There is a plate that the brake material rest on, it is meant to take the load from the button the lever bares on. That broken Pad of your looks like you have no plate underneath installed.

 

[Filipe]

I think I found the right ones, and for a decent price (including shipping $15) bmi is cheap, but they require a $10 minimum purchase...then they wanted $13 for shipping...right.

Here's what I'll get most likely:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Go-Kart.../140784391396?pt=Go_Karts&hash=item20c76754e4

Yes, that is the plate. The pad is broken apart still, so for picture purposes, it was easier to just hold this up. Thanks for watching out though! If I was more careful the first time (I switched the plate and the pad), I wouldn't be finding myself in such a bind at the moment. Lesson learned though!

 

[mckutzy]

If you could post a pic of the fixed pad half.
Are you using a bracket that allows the caliper to float or is it fixed? This can cause the pads to break sometimes.

 

[supermanotorious]

would anyone like Toystory mind going on BMI's site, compile a complete part number list for their most cost effective hydraulic setup? from the lever to the rotor

 

[Filipe]

Pic of fixed half attached.


What do you mean by "float"? The bracket is welded to the cart and the caliper slides on. One half of the caliper is on the left of the disc, the other on the right. The right side of the disc is the side that has the lever attached to the brake line.

I believe that I mistakingly and quite stupidly switched the plate with the pad when reinstalling the brakes last week. Instead of going disc, pad, plate, caliper shell; I did the following: disc, plate, pad, caliper shell.

I believe the pressure applied to the center of the pad is what made it split. (the crack originates dead center). the pressure was applied by the domed piece that moves in and out of the shield/pad chamber. In addition, that same chamber was filled with grit from what seemed like pad debris. That's why I think it broke.

 

[mckutzy]

On some karts I have seen the brake caliper is bolted to the frame and not floating on a bracket for that purpose, thats why I asked. but good to hear it on a proper mount.

 

[Filipe]

Gotcha. Well, I re-glued the pad with wood glue last night, in an effort to hold me over until the new pads come in. I got everything in place started her up, and the first few times that I pressed the brake all the way down, it squeaked/shoke/rattled/vibrated like a B****. I'm assuming some of that was leftovers from the wood glue/it getting aligned. It stopped soon after.

My next question is regarding the way I have the brake lever bolted to the the brake rod. Currently it sits like this:

Bolt-brake rod-washer-brake lever-washer-nut

However, the brake lever is at an angle. SO to keep it straight I would have to do it like this:

Bolt-washer-brake lever-washer-brake rod-nut

Do you think it is a bad idea to run it this way? Would the different forces on the lever change/potentially damage anything?

 

[OzFab]

My next question is regarding the way I have the brake lever bolted to the the brake rod.

Pics would be easier than trying to describe it...