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So I FINALLY have this kart ready to go after months, everything lined up, finally got the right driver/driven set up, perfectly aligned on both the belt and chain side. But now of course I have another problem, the chain keeps skipping when going around the 12T sprocket, it’ll go one full turn then you can see the chain bunch up just a little and then it skips, when you have it running and try to ride it it will throw the chain off entirely. I’ve tried putting lube on it, I’ve tried to flip it the opposite way, I even tried to take a link out (it has a lot of play on the top end but very tight on the back end but that wasn’t gonna happen as it was too short. Any ideas or just order a new chain?
 

madprofessor

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If the chain is tensioned up properly to where there's not enough slack (1): when it's turned off to allow it to skip teeth, then clearly (2): something is moving/bending/warping when running to allow that. If it returns to proper tension when turned off again, then that's your clue that it's happening as in #(2).
Tighten all mounting bolts...........engine, jackshaft, axle bearings, swingarm, etc. to eliminate the moving possibility. Then start looking for things bending/springing, etc.
 

panchothedog

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Is the chain old. Slack weather too much or too little should be consistent for the complete revolution. Old funky and at one time rusted chains can cause this, even when lubed. Usually slack in the chain is taken up by loosening the bolts and sliding the engine in proper direction. For a chain to need a link removed it has to REALLY be loose. They even make half links to help out in some situations.
 

pearl111

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So I FINALLY have this kart ready to go after months, everything lined up, finally got the right driver/driven set up, perfectly aligned on both the belt and chain side. But now of course I have another problem, the chain keeps skipping when going around the 12T sprocket, it’ll go one full turn then you can see the chain bunch up just a little and then it skips, when you have it running and try to ride it it will throw the chain off entirely. I’ve tried putting lube on it, I’ve tried to flip it the opposite way, I even tried to take a link out (it has a lot of play on the top end but very tight on the back end but that wasn’t gonna happen as it was too short. Any ideas or just order a new chain?
Are you able to post any pics. of the chain drive system?
 
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Are both sprockets and the chain for the correct pitch?
I would assume so, that’s about the only parts on it that haven’t been replaced at this point lol I mean I could scoot the jackshaft back and tighten the chain a little but for that small adjustment I’d have to order another $30 belt
 

Denny

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I would assume so, that’s about the only parts on it that haven’t been replaced at this point lol I mean I could scoot the jackshaft back and tighten the chain a little but for that small adjustment I’d have to order another $30 belt
Well if 1 is a #35 sprocket and another is a #40 and the chain is a #40 the 35 sprocket is going to skip like all get out!
 
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Now that right there is useful information for me lol I ordered a 420 drive chain because it looked the most similar to the one I have (I’m not stressing about it chains are cheap and it doesn’t hurt to have a couple extra I guess, plus it had the chain breaker with it) I got it today and it looks like it might work. I’ll have to check into that sprocket set up, ideally I’ll have to get one that matches up with the larger sprocket seeing as I don’t want to mess with pulling that one off. I’ve looked up ways to measure chains but I’m a dummy so if you have a “Measuring chains for dummies” manual that would be perfect lol
 

panchothedog

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Not very effective to pre- measure the chain. Put it on and then eyeball where you need to cut it. No idea which chain breaker you got. The push pin on the cheap ones is real easy to break. Make sure your engine is in the mid position when you eyeball the chain so you have some adjustment for and aft.
 

madprofessor

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I'll attach again the GKS web page with the basic chain sizes chart. The biggest factor you should be concerned with is the pitch, the major factor in different chains. You'll see that #35 chains and sprockets are 3/8", while #40, #41, #420 chains and sprockets are all 1/2". No #35 (3/8") chain or sprocket can work with any of those other 3 sizes (1/2").
As far as the 1/2" chains go, the biggest difference is that #40 chains have rollers that are 1/16" wider than the other 2 sizes. Some here will tell of having no problems with mixing/matching, I just don't like the numbers. Makes me think that a #40 sprocket would be fatter and therefore could be a tightness problem fitting into the narrower chains of the other 2 sizes. I don't think of a #40 chain being 1/16" wider causing any problems with the narrower sprockets of the other 2 sizes though, karting ain't real precision work for most of us.
Chain for Go Kart, Mini Bike | GoKarts USA®
 
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