manual engaging pulley clutch

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bkrider113

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hey guys n gals, I have an idea and would like your opinoins and ideas. It's a clutch that works like a cars clutch but it uses pulleys belts and applying tension with a spring when the clutch is engaged. When the clutch is disengaged the tension is released by pulling down the pulley with a steel cable attached to the clutch pedal.
 

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modelengineer

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DBXFX

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with this setup would the belt slip easy if you were to pop it/ change gears fast/ get wet?
 

modelengineer

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Mine didn't really slip at all unless you pushed the pedal, and you can slip the belt for a LONG time before it gets damaged (if you're moving). If you slip it when your stationary, like on a hill start where you don't have enough power, you can wear a spot in the belt.

As long as you have the tensioner on the correct side of the belt, slippage shouldn't be a problem.
Also, I'd recommend a larger driving pulley than I used, and you would need a jackshaft to get enough reduction. That setup has 8:1, but the pulley is really close to the ground.
 

DBXFX

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This setup would, but thats only due to the TINY driving pulley.
Also, there are no different gears. 1 speed only.

I plan on using a peerless 4 speed w reverse transmission which has neutral but no clutch. I'm debating using one of the pulley systems for a clutch if it will work with a 16hp engine and transmission setup.

I already have all the parts from a snowblower i pulled apart including a jackshaft :)
 

modelengineer

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It will work fine, provided you don't use pulleys which are too small. I think the problem will be the gearbox. They're not usually designed to spin fast.
 

DBXFX

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It will work fine, provided you don't use pulleys which are too small. I think the problem will be the gearbox. They're not usually designed to spin fast.

Do you think switching out the fluid to a mtf fluid would help? Not sure whats in it now. or what about making it so that the speed to the input shaft is reduced like this:

engine= small pulley>
tranmission input= big pulley (low speed high torque)>
transmission output=small pulley (brings speed up)>
axel=big/medium pulley (for proper gear ratio)>

idk, im just trying to bring up ideas. i dont even know if ill be using the pulley clutch yet... will that work tho?
 

modelengineer

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Ah yes, but if you gear it so that the transmission is moving much more slowly, then there is a lot more stress put on it, and the cases have been known to fracture under heavy load.

They're really not designed for gokarts, but if the transmission doesn't blow up then I think it should work.
 

sideways

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you should have the idler pulley pushing down on the belt like this

because then the belt wraps around the pulley more and thus has more grip than if you were pushing the pulley up to tension it. if you are running a 16hp engine then you should probably run double row pulleys for the clutch.

also you should also use a chain for your final drive, not a pulley, chains are a million times better.

your gear box should hold up if you arent going to go any faster than what the mower the box came off would off. mower 'boxs arent very strong, they dont take much punishment.

Hayden
 

robin

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for the cost of belts pullys etc i recon its much better and cheeper to use a bike engine a 125 4 stroke will have 10/15 hp clutch geers al bilt in
 

DBXFX

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i agree with using the dirktbike engine, but I am getting all this stuff for free so I might as well try it out.

16hp single horizontal is from a lawnmower (weird isn't it?!)
3 pulleys and a belt from a snowblower
gearbox is from a gator or professional riding lawnmower i believe.

is mtf fluid or 90wt gear oil better for use with these tranmissons?
 

bkrider113

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Hey sideways, youre absolutely right and this is why i post my ideas on here so people can help me improve them. I also like the double pulley idea. Im going to be running this setup with a ten horse from a chipper. Do you guys think i should stick with a steel cable or design some kind of linkage. I found this really good site that had tons of different belts all sizes and pulleys of all sizes. It also had double pulleys. BUT NOW I CANT FIND IT WTF.
 

TOO FAST

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Also the tightener should apply pressure on the slack side of the belt, that is the side
opposite of the pulling side. Don't know how else to explain this, hope you know what
I mean.
 

sideways

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Hey sideways, youre absolutely right and this is why i post my ideas on here so people can help me improve them.

cheers :thumbsup:

I also like the double pulley idea. Im going to be running this setup with a ten horse from a chipper. Do you guys think i should stick with a steel cable or design some kind of linkage.

I would recomend linkages if you can use them, cables stretch and depending on how strong the spring your using is, they may snap and then you cant stop.

I found this really good site that had tons of different belts all sizes and pulleys of all sizes. It also had double pulleys. BUT NOW I CANT FIND IT WTF.

your local mower or agriculture shop should probably have them in any size you need (or they will be able to order them in).

just to give you an idea of what can be done with these clutchs, a mate of mine built a small tractor with this kind of clutch system with double row pulleys and really ****ing strong spring on a honda 8hp engine, it pulled a ton (2200lbs) easy with out the belts slipping, it could of pulled more easyily.

Hayden
 
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