manco electric conversion

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drm

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Introduction:
Hello all. I signed up a few months ago to learn about electric go kart conversions and see the pics. I lurked for a bit and eventually got the bug. I found a used kart frame that needed a motor. I worked on it slowly and now have an operational kart for my 2 boys who are 5 and 3.

List of Parts:
  • (1) manco (415??) kart chassis (craigslist-$100)
  • (1) my1020 48V motor (eBay-$99)
  • (1) 11T sprocket (amazon.com-$10)
  • (1) #30 chain (amazon.com-$10)
  • (1) Kelly KDS 100A controller (kellycontrols.com-$89)
  • (1) generic throttle pedal 0-5V (kellycontrols.com-$29)
  • (4) 12V 12AH SLA batteries (chromebattery.com-$100)
  • misc. 1515 80/20 rail and hardware for mounting (free)
  • (3) 3/4" conduit clamps for mounting 80/20 rail to chassis ($5)
  • (2) plastic cutting boards (walmart-$15)
  • (2) boat cushions and slats for seats (academy sports-$20)
  • (1) 12V 100A continuous duty solenoid (amazon.com-$15)
  • (1) 48V/12V regulator (eBay-$20)
  • (2) misc LED lights (walmart-$10)
  • (1) LED chaser light (superbrightleds.com-$20)
  • (2) 10A toggle switches (walmart-$10)
  • misc. wire (free)
  • misc. 3M connectors ($10)
  • misc. fastening hardware ($10)

Build:
I set my initial budget @ $500 USD. My total cost (not including labor) was ~$550.
One concern was braking, but this cart has a tire friction brake which works great for my purposes.
Gearing was another issue. The kart had a 60T one-wheeled wonder sprocket and I kept it. I found a 12T sprocket for the motor. My calcs put top speed about 18MPH and need to verify with gps.

I originally had 2 solenoids in series but the kelly controller had issues driving both of them. I ended up using 1. The foot pedal is 3wire only so it doesn't have a switch. I debated whether the switch for on/off would be a safety issue but think operation is ok for now.

Motor sprocket mounting was awkward but I ended up drilling it out with a stepper bit to fit on the motor shaft, tightened the set screws with loctite, and used the original shaft nut to secure.

Foot pedals were re-located for access by my 5yo. I used left over 80/20 rail for adjustability and rigged the gas pedal to operate the foot pedal. I re-worked the hard line to the brake with a cable and spring.

Motor and batteries were mounted to an 80/20 frame. Nylon cutting boards were used for electronics backplate. Conduit clamps secured the 80/20 frame to the kart chassis. I know some poo-poo 80/20 but has fit my needs since i dont have a welder yet and provides a fair amount of adjustability and re-use.

I wired it all up per the Kelly Controller documentation provided. The original ignition switch is now my on/off for 48V to the controller and 48/12v regulator. The second switch is 12V power for the lights.

Reflections:
This kart was an upgrade from a power wheels toy. I used the controller setup software without issue. Max speed is limited to 33%. Run time has been ~30min up/down driveway and in the yard. As for charging, I started charging @ 12v in parallel but got tired of swapping connectors. I am now using (4) 12v 1.5A chargers with quick disconnects.

My boys have enjoyed helping with the build and it is extremely popular in the neighborhood. Now I need one.

http://youtu.be/irDtJnWAm08













 
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dcastillo

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well done, my first conversion was about the same cart, only did more welding instead of 80/20 and used a treadmill motor...

question: where are the batteries located?

-Danny
 

itsid

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well done!

the kelly controller is a bit overkill for a my1020.. but I assume you got it to get a bigger motor as soon as the boys are older and more experienced ;)

Just one minor thing: you shouldn't bend your wires like that,
they tend to break, either make them shorter or use wider loops at the ends.
Also it's not exactly a good idea to tie different wires together like that, especially not signal and power wires (electro-magnetic interference)
Not a big deal on small motors like yours and low voltage... but still not exactly what should be done ;)

Otherwise I'd call it excellent :thumbsup:

'sid
 

drm

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well done, my first conversion was about the same cart, only did more welding instead of 80/20 and used a treadmill motor...

question: where are the batteries located?

-Danny

Batteries are sitting side by 4 in a row on the rail next to the motor.
 

drm

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well done!

the kelly controller is a bit overkill for a my1020.. but I assume you got it to get a bigger motor as soon as the boys are older and more experienced ;)

Just one minor thing: you shouldn't bend your wires like that,
they tend to break, either make them shorter or use wider loops at the ends.
Also it's not exactly a good idea to tie different wires together like that, especially not signal and power wires (electro-magnetic interference)
Not a big deal on small motors like yours and low voltage... but still not exactly what should be done ;)

Otherwise I'd call it excellent :thumbsup:

'sid

Good points. I wanted a larger controller for more fun later. Maybe the wires look worse in the picture but I don't think any bend radi are out of spec.
 

MancoGX390

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At least your wiring skills are better than the guys who maintain the quad I hired for an hour in Tunisia!
 

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drm

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how do you charge the batteries? do you have a 48V charger or unplug them and use a 12V charger?

At first I unplugged and charged in parallel. That got old quick. I found 4 12v 1.5 amp chargers and some quick disconnects. You can charge a series pack as long as you use individual charges (effectively individual isolated charge outputs) :cheers2:
 

dcastillo

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nice... as soon as I get a chance to take some pictures Ill show you my new charging setup/mod... I basically wired the 4 batteries to a hypertronics connector with 8 100A gold plated pins, then have a mating connector for it. the other side of the mating connector puts the batteries in series and runs them to the motor/controller. When its time to charge I just unplug the single mating connector and plug in the charging connector which puts the batteries in parallel allowing a 12v charger to be used (which mine can do 10A if I want)...
I would never had gone that route if I didnt have the spare parts at work, since each pin setup is about $50!!!!!

-Danny
 

drm

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nice... as soon as I get a chance to take some pictures Ill show you my new charging setup/mod... I basically wired the 4 batteries to a hypertronics connector with 8 100A gold plated pins, then have a mating connector for it. the other side of the mating connector puts the batteries in series and runs them to the motor/controller. When its time to charge I just unplug the single mating connector and plug in the charging connector which puts the batteries in parallel allowing a 12v charger to be used (which mine can do 10A if I want)...
I would never had gone that route if I didnt have the spare parts at work, since each pin setup is about $50!!!!!

-Danny

Neato. I have read some about that idea. After researching, I figured it would be better to charge individually and might make the batteries last longer.
 

dcastillo

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Here's A quick shot, haven't fully mounted it yet, but makes it way easier to play and charge. Currently I only have 6 batteries setup for 36v , but made the connector big enough for a future 48v setup.
-danny
 

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drm

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Here's A quick shot, haven't fully mounted it yet, but makes it way easier to play and charge. Currently I only have 6 batteries setup for 36v , but made the connector big enough for a future 48v setup.
-danny

very cool. do you have any issues with charging or battery life? I suppose I spent the same amount of money on individual chargers.
 
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