Manco Dingo Axle Question - Issue

[only126db]

Picked up a 286-182E Manco Dingo the other day, and I have run into a problem.

When my son test drove it we noticed that there was a shudder upon acceleration from the rear axle which was more pronounced on the opposite side as the chain.

The machine looks to have a hex axle but before I go pulling the wheel off and investigating, does anyone know what I should look for in case it is not smack in my face once I get in there.

I have heard mention of keys and stuff but I dont think this has one, I dont know, it does look as though the bearing may have two set screws (from some pics I have seen online).

Any help before I get into it would be great.

 

[OzFab]

You are correct, hex axles don't have keyways because they're unnecessary but, everything (sprocket hub, bearings, etc) will have set screws holding everything in place...

Elevate the rear of the kart, stand behind it so you can see the entire axle & have someone rotate the axle slowly, you should be able to spot the bend...

 

[only126db]

Ok, I will check it out tomorrow, it does seem like maybe a set screw is loose somewhere, hopefully it wasnt driven too much like that and damaged something.

 

[only126db]

Well I checked it out, seems ok, the only thing we noticed was the brake caliper makes a click and moves as the axle gets spun. So I am thinking the brake may catch under load or something. I will be pulling the caliper off and doing a test run without brakes... It seems there should be a rubber piece on the mount which would make the system quieter more solid and efficient, but I guess the machine is not meant to be a precision piece of equipment (no call out in parts list).

 

[OzFab]

The brake caliper is meant to move, somewhat, due to disc runout; all disc brake systems are built with a small amount of runout to move the pads away from the disc so as not to cause unnecessary wear on the pads...

 

[only126db]

I have come to the conclusion it is the belt, I took the caliper apart, cleaned it lubed it and she stops quite well, she was dirty and out of adjustment. It didnt fix the issue but I stood behind the kid when he took off and it seems to be a clutch/belt issue. I am ordering some new nylon buttons (some are missing) and a belt, we will see if that fixes it.

 

[Blazkowiez]

Please go watch my video about cleaning torque converters. You may have lubed it wrongly.

Hex axles rarely bend, its almost always a sprocket or wheel if not a dirty torque converter.

 

[only126db]

Please go watch my video about cleaning torque converters. You may have lubed it wrongly.

Hex axles rarely bend, its almost always a sprocket or wheel if not a dirty torque converter.

I will watch, but I have not lubed it, it does not look to have any grease or anything on it and the belt is worn....

Wait, where am I supposed to see this video???

 

[traxman]

I have a dingo too. the brake is just in a metal track and it has up to >1/2inch of movement. If the torque convert is messed up somehow i would suggest gokartsusa.com gtc driven only. Its 56 bucks and it works great. I had to get one and it changed everything about the go kart.

 

[only126db]

I have a dingo too. the brake is just in a metal track and it has up to >1/2inch of movement. If the torque convert is messed up somehow i would suggest gokartsusa.com gtc driven only. Its 56 bucks and it works great. I had to get one and it changed everything about the go kart.

Well I cleaned up the drive pulley, that part works great, but then I was trying to figure out what is going on since it still does the jerking thing and I believe it is the driven pulley not spreading out like it is supposed too. Tomorrow I will put it up on blocks and verify this. I also believe the belt is too loose after watching some videos, I should have it wrapped up tomorrow, I still will order a new belt and nylon buttons.

 

[only126db]

Ok I have figured it out. The belt is too long, it is the correct belt for the application but due to the engine being changed the fuel tank does not allow the engine to go forward another 3/8-1/2 inch.

Under throttle the belt wraps under between the drive and driven pulleys.

I am considering purchasing a shorter belt, part # 203589A instead of the current 5959 which is on it. I can actually pull the 5959 off the machine easily without removing a pulley or loosening anything.

I wish I could just move the 'jack shaft' (or whatever its called) back a little to tighten the belt but the chain will not allow it.

I could remote mount the tank and that would allow for a little more adjustment (I think) instead of going with the smaller belt, the tank does hit right against the seat frame so....

 

[Poboy kartman]

Have you considered shimming the engine up????

 

[only126db]

Have you considered shimming the engine up????

I dont think thats an option due to the tank shape, unless I was to raise it a whole lot and then that would put it out of spec for my pulley size and clutch model.

I will double check abut raising it though, unless I pull the engine back then shim it up....

Hmmmmm

 

[Blazkowiez]

I will watch, but I have not lubed it, it does not look to have any grease or anything on it and the belt is worn....

Wait, where am I supposed to see this video???

http://youtu.be/C9yPHtfJO9w

5959 from Manco is the correct belt since you don't have adjustment between the two clutches. The replacement is a comet 203589.

 

[only126db]

http://youtu.be/C9yPHtfJO9w

5959 from Manco is the correct belt since you don't have adjustment between the two clutches. The replacement is a comet 203589.

Well the 5959 is too long. The 30 series manual specifies a 203589A which is shorter than a 5959. It seems many places are selling the 5959 and 203589A as the same belt but they are not. The Manco 286 manual calls out for the 5959, but like I said its too long.

203589A = 27.03"
5959 = 27.375"

Its less than a 1/4" difference, it may help my issue. We will find out Saturday or sunday when my belt gets here.

 

[OzFab]

I think you math is off a bit; 27.375-27.03=0.345, which is closer to 3/8" than 1/4" (which is 0.250")...

Also, in the correct conditions, 1/4" can mean the difference between grabbing too much & not grabbing at all...

 

[only126db]

I think you math is off a bit; 27.375-27.03=0.345, which is closer to 3/8" than 1/4" (which is 0.250")...

Also, in the correct conditions, 1/4" can mean the difference between grabbing too much & not grabbing at all...

Good catch, sorry had other crap on my mind when typing.

My center distance was less than the minimum spec for the 30 series, with the 5959 belt (1/2" if I remember correctly), it is actually closer to the spec for the 30 series with the 203589A.

http://www.gokartsupply.com/tcbelts.htm

No matter what, my belt the 5959 wraps under and between the two pulleys, and I can pull it right off with no effort, that tells me its too long, unless I am missing something...

 

[Blazkowiez]

Only126db. From experience, if you have an older Manco, lets say prior 2007 the 203589 belt is your replacement belt. If you have a newer kart which has a subaru and some chinese parts and chinese tq then you often times need a 203590.

I can say this from replacing belt after belt after belt with the 203589, people use this as a replacement because it works. Newer karts not so much.

 

[only126db]

Like I said I ordered the 203589A which everywhere says the last letter doesnt matter, but the manufacturer does it seems since some are 27" and some 27 3/8".

 

[only126db]

The smaller belt did the trick.

ROTARY 12-8487 replaces Comet 203589 3/4" x 27" (19.1 x 686mm).