Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
Clean Metal:
Paint of any description won't be too successful on moving parts, it'll wear off in short order. Your best options are either polishing which, as previously mentioned, takes a lot of time to achieve & maintain a good finish, or chrome plating. Having said that, the metal is polished before it's plated, that's what costs, the actual plating costs next to nothing...
Another trick for a great visual effect is to heat the parts in an oven after they're polished/plated; that's how you get the bluing effect...
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Yes- most people don't realize that first the steel is derusted cleaned and then plated with copper which acts like a filler/primer and the copper is sanded and polished to perfection before being plated in nickle and finally chrome.....
Proper blueing is much more than just heating the metal. It involves certain chemical salts and to be done properly is about as involved as chrome plating. There are several general types of "bluing" used on firearms. The most common modern commercial type being bluing with chemical salts and high heat. Again- this requires a polished surface for the best results. There is cold bluing- the stuff you can buy at Wal-Mart. It also requires a polished and meticulously clean surface for good results. Then there is Parkerizing which can be done on sandblasted surfaces and is done with phosphates. Then there is the old-time browning finish which is basically controlled rusting. Finally- there is a much rarer blued finish that is a multi-colored mottled looking finish that I have only seen on some H&R recievers but I'm sure are on some older revolvers and probably used more in other countries that is achieved strictly through controlled heat.