Longest Lasting Clutch for high miles!

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ZnsaneRyder

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My OHV 6.5HP Honda Clone engine is a brute, and it destroys anything it has attached to it, LOL. It has destroyed axles, bearings, pulleys, belts, and I'm on my 3rd clutch.

I'm wondering what clutches have lasted the longest on your powerful engines. I need a clutch that lasts 5,000 miles or more. I ride & slip the clutch a lot in city traffic, because it's not a go-kart, and I can't always go fast in town to keep it locked.

First, I had a regular Max Torque clutch, and it was a complete joke, as it died within 12 days, less than 400 miles, and the hub & back plate where they are joined together (teeth that fit into each other) separated after 14 days total when I kept riding it anyway. Never again will I get another Max Torque standard clutch.

The clutch I've had the best luck with is the Hilliard Extreme-Duty clutches. They have the strongest SOLID steel hub. The first one I had died after 1.5 months, because I overheated it and didn't replace the bushing in time, but the 2nd one has lasted well over 3000 miles and five months, and I've only replaced the bushing ONCE. After a 60+ mile drive to St Petersburg FL the other day, I completely split one of the clutch shoes, and the other 3 were nearly worn out where the solid hub turns them. I replaced 3 of the shoes with the shoes from my old Hilliard clutch, and welded more material on the remaining 4th shoe. It's still going, despite the bushing surface spinning inside the clutch, it's STILL going! The Hilliard are easiest to disassemble and replace parts, which is why I like them. However, I feel they still could be better.

As far as the Comet clutches (I haven't had one yet).......they have bigger shoes than the Max Torque's, and appear more heavy-duty, but they still have that same crappy hub that's toothed into the plate that pushes the shoes, and also their bushing looks similar to the Max Torque's. I've considered welding one of these to prevent separation, but feel it's unnecessary if I can get a better clutch.

Should I just stick with the Hilliard, or is there a much tougher clutch? I've considered a Max Torque Draggin-Skin clutch, but they are expensive, and I'm not sure they would last as long as the Hilliard, and would hate to blow over $120 to find out.

Any input on this? What is the BEST clutch for LOTS of miles?
 

ed1380

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how about a torque converter? dont have to worry about clutch slipping at low speeds
 

ZnsaneRyder

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I'd love to, but they are too physically big for my application, and they are more expensive than a brand new 6.5HP clone engine, so I want to stay with a centrifugal clutch.
 

tenlizard

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what i've heard is that hillard extreme duties are the best. apparently with the max torque, you have to oil the bushing with regular oil every night you ride it so it'll stay in good shape. low gearing will help stop the shoes from slipping. imo hillards are the best.
 

ZnsaneRyder

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what i've heard is that hillard extreme duties are the best. apparently with the max torque, you have to oil the bushing with regular oil every night you ride it so it'll stay in good shape. low gearing will help stop the shoes from slipping. imo hillards are the best.

The Max Torques plain out suck IMO. Noisy, and grabby, and seems to be the most common go-kart clutch.

I can get away without oiling my Hilliard's bronze bushing for a very long time before it starts to get sticky and need any lube. I lube it often anyway. Most of the time, it just needs a squirt of WD-40 every other day or so, and I only oil it occasionally. Also the Hilliard's bushing material is much thicker than the others I've seen so far.

However, I find that I need to use WD-40 with them on the friction surface of the drum, so the shoes engage smoother, and not shake and chatter so much. I find that all of the clutches no matter the brand, are smoother with a bit of WD-40. I'm not racing, so I prefer a bit of slip off the start to have a smoother takeoff, and it seems to make a lot less noise that way.

I don't want to lower my gearing because I like my > 50mph top speed, and also the higher gearing gives me better gas mileage when crusing, as I get an average of 100 MPG. A trike I built for a friend with the same engine & clutch, but lower gears only got about 80MPG.

EDIT: If I do lower the gearing, I'll probably only lower it just a small bit to keep up the MPG. I have another Hilliard #41 chain clutch, and plan to get a 30T (or a 32T sprocket if I lower the gearing), but no lower than that, my tires are only 10 inches.

I lowered the engagement springs to only 1800 RPM for better low-end power and more gas mileage without slipping it at low speeds.

Are there any clutches that are not metal-on-metal for engaging, like the small clutches for 50cc pocket bike engines with pads? I know they are smooth and quiet, and don't chatter like go-kart clutches do.
 

ZnsaneRyder

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Anyone with experience with THIS type of COMET clutch?
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/011135A.html

It's very expensive, but it looks pretty beefy.

 

rgvkid

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Good thing i haven't bought my clutch yet. I wonder what clutch the DragNFly push trailer guys use. They did a trip from Mexico to Canada with push trailers and im sure they had to have used a few clutches. The hillard doesn't sound like its for me because I will be commuting 30miles a day about 2-3 days a week. I'll call a local kart shop tomorrow and ask them what they recommend.

Thae comet has springs that will engage at 1100/1300, that would be great for green light take offs.
 

ZnsaneRyder

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Good thing i haven't bought my clutch yet. I wonder what clutch the DragNFly push trailer guys use. They did a trip from Mexico to Canada with push trailers and im sure they had to have used a few clutches. The hillard doesn't sound like its for me because I will be commuting 30miles a day about 2-3 days a week. I'll call a local kart shop tomorrow and ask them what they recommend.

The Hilliard performed the best, but I am looking for better. Maybe I'm asking too much for a C-Clutch, LOL. I know my really tall gearing is hell on a clutch for sure.

I commuted approx 30-60 miles a day, and got 5 months on my Hilliard clutch in good shape, but it's still going even further, because I welded it and replaced the shoes.

The Max Torque plain out stink. The Cheap Comets look ok, but it's similar to the Max Torque, so that's why I didn't use one.

Let us know what the Kart Shop says............but if they say Max Torque, as many do, then look elsewhere. I'd like to see if they recommend a clutch that we are not familiar with.

EDIT: 1300RPM is TOO LOW for a clutch on a 6.5, because they idle between 1400-1700 RPM. 1800RPM is the minimum you can have on a 6.5, so it can idle properly without moving. The expensive comet I posted is 1800-2000 RPM.

Good luck rgvkid, and keep us posted.
 

crazycart

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Comet makes a very nice clutch. You really get what you pay for when it comes to clutches. The comet on my kart has held up for 2+ years.
 

ZnsaneRyder

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I found an AWESOME website with a full range of Hiliard Clutch parts. I must have a regular Hilliard clutch, as it seems there's MUCH better versions and parts of the Hilliard "Extreme-Duty" and also "Extreme-Fury" clutches.

http://www.recmotor.com/minibike-and-go-kart-parts/

Also for all their clutches:
http://www.recmotor.com/snowmobiles/clutch-parts.php

They have heat treated hub, and special race versions.

I'm very interested in the Comet Snowmobile clutch, but one Major issue, is I see NO replacement bushing listed!!! No matter what clutch, I want to know that I can replace any of the parts without hassle.

I may just have to stick with the Hilliard, and check recmotor out.
 

ZnsaneRyder

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I just gave a phone call to mfgsupply, and asked about their clutches.

The technician recommended the Hilliard Extreme-Duty and said it's the strongest clutch they carry. OK, now I'm convinced.

Price doesn't always seem to be the determining factor it seems, as he recommended it over the more expensive Comet Snowmobile clutch!
 

rgvkid

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So is that the extreme duty from MFGsupply or the one from Recmotor. The one from Recmotor is $110 compared to MFGs $43. Now im afraid of buyeing the MFG if it is only going to last 5 months. Might be better to just bite the bullet and go with the Extreme Duty Inferno.
 

ZnsaneRyder

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So is that the extreme duty from MFGsupply or the one from Recmotor. The one from Recmotor is $110 compared to MFGs $43. Now I'm afraid of buying the MFG if it is only going to last 5 months. Might be better to just bite the bullet and go with the Extreme Duty Inferno.

The MfgSupply one. Mine is actually from Tractor Supply, but it's supposedly the same. Also I use a belt on mine (modified chain clutch welded & converted to pulley) which puts much more stress on it. I'm about to do away with the belt and go #40 chain and end the problems.

The mfgsupply clutch should be fine. The only differences with the inferno is the heat-treated racing hub, and extra springs it comes with. Maybe you can call recmotor and see what they say all the differences are.....I may just do that tomorrow.

You could buy the regular mfgsupply clutch, and buy the heat-treated hub from Recmotor later on, or just bite the bullet and spend the $110, it's up to you. It's your money, but I'd rather spend $50 on a clutch, and replace it twice, (and have leftover parts) then spend over double on just one clutch, but it only last a little bit longer. However, I'll call them to see if it's worth getting the $110 clutch.

After some long thinking, I believe mine lasted in good condition for just 5 months, because I slip the clutch for nearly 1/2 a mile down my dirt road, plus on-and-off engagement for another mile down a pothole-stricken asphalt road after that, (very bad) which makes it very hot. I believe under normal circumstances, it should last much longer. I live in the friggen boondocks!
 

Gungatim

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Here's a thought, check the racing gokart supply houses for what the racers use. I have a friend who races gokarts with his son and he gives me his old clutch parts when they swap for new. His clutches look similar to the fancy comet in the picture a few posts back, except they use a needle bearing on the crank instead of a bushing. The housings are twice as thick and can take some serious heat. They stand up to the power of modified animal engines on alcohol pretty good, and when I use them half worn out, they are twice as good as a new maxtorque. I think he buys from Kartworld or something like that.

edit - I emailed my buddy: "We use the Premier Stinger. Noram also makes one that is very similar. They are now both owned by same company and are interchangeable. American Powersports has the Noram one. About $75. "

Hope that helps.
 
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Gungatim

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Here is their website http://www.apskarting.com/

looks like they don't sell the clutches anymore, just the replacement parts. The Noram GE Ultimate is the equivalent but it's $105. The Noram GE is the same but with oilite bearing instead of needle bearing and is only $55.
 

ZnsaneRyder

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Those seem nice, and they are similar to the comet. What still has my attention with those, is they look like they may engage smoother and allow some slip off the start. It would be nice to have a clutch that will allow some overload from the start, and not grab too quick until the RPM's and speed catches up.

It seems they only offer a #35 chain model. I'll look around to see if #41 chain sprockets are available.
 
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