Live Axel Bearing removal Help

[Con]

As the title above says I need some advise on how to best remove the bearings from a Yerfdog 3203 live axel.
I have already removed the set screws and sprayed liberally with WD40 but have not been able to move the bearing toward the end of the axel.
The bearing is about 9" away from the end of the axel end, I have done a search of previous posts and have not been able to find any info on how to do this. The reason for removing the bearing is to install a new disc rotor and caliper brake system to replace the crappy 4" band brake and drum.
Thank you for any advice
Con

 

[Blazkowiez]

Wow, you've done most of the hard part. If the bearing are seized you can carefully cut the bearing off, usually i'll beat it back and forth using a sleeve so as not to damage the axle, but make sure you clean the axle so it can slide easier.

Also, you better get a big rotor or be using hydraulic brakes if want it to stop half as good as that brake band should have (in good working order).

 

[HellSpawn]

back the bearing off the hardspot that it gets stuck at and use some light sandpaper or even a file to remove any burrs and deformations. This way you wont gouge up your axle trying to take the thing off and it saves the bearing.

 

[jeremybentham]

back the bearing off the hardspot that it gets stuck at and use some light sandpaper or even a file to remove any burrs and deformations. This way you wont gouge up your axle trying to take the thing off and it saves the bearing.

Came in to post this.

I take strips of sandpaper, 80 grit (if gouged badly), then 120, then 220 grits and sand the axle in a 'shoe-shiney' motion. You will be able to see the high spots whilst sanding and concentrate on those. Blow any shavings away with compressed air, lube with WD or whatever, and it will literally fall off the axle.

 

[Con]

Live Axel Bearing removal Help

My thanks to all above for your advice and help.
Cleaning/sandpapering the axel seems to be the majic touch and this is what I did along with some brute force to free the bearing from its fixed point on the axel.
With this done I proceeded to grind a 1/4" key way into the axel for the brake rotor key stock, all worked good and I got everything on the axel back together but when time came to reassemble the axel to the rear swing arm I discovered that the arm has two cracks in it, one major, one smaller.
Finally this will give me the excuse to buy the welder I have always wanted. (Miller 211)
Con

 

[HellSpawn]

Glad to see things are working out for ya.

 

[Blazkowiez]

While you've got the rear apart on this Yerf. You might take the chance to fix the back deck. They're designed poorly from the factory and not super strong. Bracing is needed to ensure integrity against twisting and breaking.

Here and here are two karts we've had to do this on just like yours. I know the picture of the deck isn't very descriptive but it should get the idea across fairly well. We built two braces using 1/2" (in the front) and 3/4"(in the rear), took a pneumatic pipe bender to shape, and hard welded both pieces to the fame for massive structural integrity.

 

[ryf]

wanted to add for the peanut gallery, brush wheel in in drill (the open hair kind not the twisted cord kind) tI keep these around for exactly this you can lap a whole axle in a few mins if you use a brass one it will only remove the grime with reasonable use (if you stand there long enough anything can happen I suppose) any time you grind or sand or clean an axle, blow it off with air or wipe it down with a dry cloth before spraying it down again, you need to get those filings/grit off or your just going to hang up in another few inches.

 

[Con]

Thanks blazkowiez for the heads up on the poor design on these go karts. I am pretty sure they originally built them this way so as to make money on after market repair parts.Great website by the way. One question , on some of your go karts they have carpet on the metal deck, will this help reduce any of the rattle vibration effect you get from the engine.
Thanks
Con



.

While you've got the rear apart on this Yerf. You might take the chance to fix the back deck. They're designed poorly from the factory and not super strong. Bracing is needed to ensure integrity against twisting and breaking.

Here and here are two karts we've had to do this on just like yours. I know the picture of the deck isn't very descriptive but it should get the idea across fairly well. We built two braces using 1/2" (in the front) and 3/4"(in the rear), took a pneumatic pipe bender to shape, and hard welded both pieces to the fame for massive structural integrity.

 

[Blazkowiez]

Heh, the carpet is for aesthetics purely dude. Its indoor/outdoor so it washes clean with a hose but works better than grip tape and looks pretty **** cool. Thanks for the good word, its not a fancy site but I've done my best to make it functional.