Kilowat Jackshaft

nickster_90

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My kilowat project came with a broken jackshaft and my driven pulley on my torq requires a 5/8 with 3/16 key my question being new to all this is will the following allow me to utilize my current torq converter and the jack shaft spot on my kart frame in an attempt to fix chain geometry for suspension travel

Shaft
* https://www.gopowersports.com/5-8-threaded-jackshaft/

Bearings
* HiPicco 6203-5/8-2RS Deep Groove Bearings, ID 5/8" x OD 40mm x Width 12mm Double Rubber Sealed Ball Bearings, Pre-Lubricated (GCr15) Chrome Steel 4pcs https://a.co/d/05IMhqa2
 

Hellion

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Got pics of the Kilowatt, pics of the business end and the broken jackshaft?

Bearings look good but shop around, might be able to get a dozen for 12.99
 

nickster_90

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Don't have pic of old shaft but It would be where 23 goes threw the tube on the motor on parts diagram plate can see the tube bottom left of the pic of our kart i know the original shaft was 3/4 and the bearing stuck to it is 40x12
 

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Hellion

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How wide is part #24?

Since we don't know the length of the original jackshaft I think you can mock it up if you wanted, with a wooden dowel or something. Mock it up the way it should be, sprocket on one end, the driven pulley on the other and then order the proper shaft length.

i'm gonna wait on the rest of the guys else to weigh in.
 

panchothedog

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The picture you showed should work. Always better to have it a little long. The picture you posted, the shaft is actually too short, and the locking part of the
lock nut is not engaging. These things like to fly off if the lock nut isn't working, or worse yet, a common nut is used.
 

nickster_90

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In the photo of our kart the drive is just mocked up hand tight after taking it back apart to mesure shaft and keyway the problem with current set up is the sprockets for the drive chain are to vertical and their is no way to acount for suspension compression under load of the motor or terrain causeing massive tension and at time over tightened scenarios its my understanding the drive sprocket and Cain driving the rear sproket must be the same level as the pivot point in my rear suspension wich would be the location of this lower jackshaft tube.
 

nickster_90

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How wide is part #24?

Since we don't know the length of the original jackshaft I think you can mock it up if you wanted, with a wooden dowel or something. Mock it up the way it should be, sprocket on one end, the driven pulley on the other and then order the proper shaft length.

i'm gonna wait on the rest of the guys else to weigh in.
Im unsure of its width and can not finde spec for the part I like th dowel idea I know the jackshaft tube is about 10.5" and that i have about 3.75" of shaft on the torque converter so I figured i would add 4" to the length of the tube 14.5 or a 15" with about a 1/4 extra play eather side here are photos of what was left of the old one
 

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Hellion

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I’m sorry that replacing parts is not cut and dry, it is very frustrating with these old karts because there is very little documentation out there. Imagine buying a used bare frame ($50-100) with no axles and you want it to look stock. You have to mock up things in your head usually, to determine if the wheels you like will fit on the new axle and front axles (spindles) you just bought on a whim. You have to space everything out so you don’t run out of room before you can get the axle nut on, or have too much room, with excess axle sticking out past the tires.

There’s Murray diagrams like what you found on some sites, but it doesn’t describe the part with dimensions. Obviously Murray wanted you to buy their parts only. :mad:
 
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