Kill switch wiring.

[jonbenderr]

So first of all...apologies. Searching this topic here brings up results but most lead to the idea of wiring the kill switch wire directly to the factory kill switch wiring.

While this is a reasonable solution, I feel like there should be a way the manufacturer (Yerf-Dog) intended this to be setup. I would prefer to do things this way.

Right now I'm thinking the switch on the steering column is actually bad, but I'm not sure how to test it as it only has the one wire. From searching, the yerf-dog switches are supposedly self grounding?

I've tested all the other wiring though including under the shroud and it all checks out with continuity.

In the attached image, you can see the green wire hanging down and then the black wire coming directly from the steering column kill switch (currently have the black attached at the phillips screw to keep it from dangling around). I traced the free green wire under the shroud to what I believe is a ground terminal?

So, I first assumed the black goes to green to no avail. Couldn't start the engine no matter what.

Is it a bad kill switch, or am I just being greedy thinking it would be that easy?

Any help would be greatly appreciated and again I apologize for bringing up a topic that has been covered to some extent.

 

[mckutzy]

If you could post a few pics not so zoomed in that would be helpful...

What is the motor??

 

[bob58o]

Hmmm, if there is only 1 wire on the switch it is grounded to the chassis. The black wire also looks connected to ground (at least in the picture). You said you've traced the green wire also back to ground. Connecting Ground to ground to ground isn't going to do anything. You need to connect the ignition coil to ground to have a functioning kill switch. Are there two wires coming from the ignition coil? One to the spark plug then another that goes through a factory ON/OFF switch to ground?

Instead of the voltage built up in the ignition coil going to the spark plug, when you close the kill switch, you complete a circuit that shorts the ignition coil to the chassis (though your self grounding switch). Find the wire (not spark plug wire, but that might work too) that traces back to the ignition coil and connect your kill switch to that wire.

---------- Post added at 09:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:50 AM ----------

Once you find the correct wire, make sure your crimps or solders are good and make sure the mounting location of the switch has clean bare metal.

How did you connect the green and black wires? Hopefully not with that screw tightened into the block. If the green wire does go to the ignition coil, connecting the green and black together by tightening them both against the block would make the switch useless as you would be permanently in "kill" mode.

If you connected them by putting a bolt through them both with a nut on it, then the bolt and terminals should be insulated to prevent the connection from shorting to the chassis or engine block.

If the green wire is isolated (not touching any metal) does the engine start?

 

[jonbenderr]

Thank you guys for the feedback so far.

It is a tecumseh ohh60 engine.

bob58o:

The engine starts no problem when the green wire is isolated. Actually, I don't know how I have been so lucky thus far. That green wire has been dangling around back there since I picked up the kart.

I DID pull it out for the sake of the picture where before it was tucked away back more one the aluminum side of the engine.

However...today I could not get the engine started. Sure enough...I moved the green wire away from metal and the engine fired right up. Just for fun, I took some insulated pliers and grabbed the wire after I had the engine started...touched it off on some metal...engine died!

So does this mean the green wire should go to the black wire coming from the kill switch and the connection should be insulated?

What's the best way to insulate? Few or a dozen wraps of electrical tape? Or would butt connectors be a better choice? The reason I ask is because I've tried this but I may not have done enough to insulate.

(Also...just to clarify...the black wire is bolted to the block like that simply because I didn't want that wire dangling around all the moving parts while trying to sort out and tune a few other things on the kart.)

Thank you again!

 

[FieldstoneDriveKarts]

Try the green wire under the screw where the black wire is now. Connect the black wire to the switch. Try it. The kill switch should ground from the terminal to the shell of the switch (use your continuity meter to check.) Make sure there is bare metal between the shell and the frame.

 

[bob58o]

Try the green wire under the screw where the black wire is now. Connect the black wire to the switch. Try it. The kill switch should ground from the terminal to the shell of the switch (use your continuity meter to check.) Make sure there is bare metal between the shell and the frame.

Sounds like the green wire goes to the ignition coil. If you connect the green wire to block with the screw, isn't the ignition is always grounded? You'll never get spark. I mean every small engine I have uses an aluminum block and has a kill switch wire going to a bolt on that block.

If the switch is working, connect the green and black wires and insulate the connection. Heat shrink, electrical tape,... what ever... Just make sure no metal is exposed. Then when the switch is OPEN, you get spark to the plug. When the switch is closed, you get no spark. Depending on the switch... ON may be kill, OFF may be run.

I usually use crimp on quick connect terminals. You can get an assorted box of crimp terminals with a stripper/crimper tool and a box of heat shrink for about $10 - $15 at harbor freight. I use a cigarette lighter for the heat shrink.

I should get a soldering iron and do things correctly.
https://m.harborfreight.com/305-piece-solderless-terminal-kit-67684.html

 

[jonbenderr]

I know for sure the green wire to the bolt on block will kill the engine.

I've tried every combination of things now.

The green wire to black wire makes the most sense but it didn't seem to work. So either a.) I didn't insulate well enough or b.) have a bad switch.

Thanks again for the help guys! I'll be back if I get this sorted.

 

[Karttekk]

BMI Karts bought the remaining Yerf-Dog parts, maybe they can help somehow. Looks like there are manuals available for them.

Thanks

https://www.bmikarts.com/Yerf-Dog_ep_44-1.html

---------- Post added at 08:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:01 AM ----------

https://www.bmikarts.com/Yerf-Dog-Go-Kart-Parts

 

[jonbenderr]

UPDATE:

So it turns out there was an unseen short or break somewhere in the black wire. It was testing ok on the multi-meter but it may have been bent just right to complete the connection while testing.

So that's annoying...

Anyways, long story short (no pun intended), snagged some replacement wire and patched it in from kill switch to the green wire on the back of the engine....kill switch works now.

Thanks again for the help guys.

 

[Karttekk]

Thanks for sharing the resolution. Doing that may help someone with a similar issue. I think everyone should make an effort to post their solutions or if any suggestions were successful, it helps all of us. The whole idea of a forum!

 

[Kansaskart]

I never owned a Tecumseh that needed kill switch wiring. Lol!