Kelley KLS-S and Boma 48v 1800w?

[EpsilonZero]

The motor mount looks like 3/8" steel. Hopefully it will be fine since I won't be pulling that peak 300 amps. The battery is only good for 200 amps peak for 15 seconds, so I will be limiting the current in the controller.

It looks like I can just fashion a retention system with some Velcro straps and heavy duty rubber flooring (when it arrives). Even without the rubber, the battery doesn't budge with the Velcro straps. I am also going to fashion a plastic dashboard with some 1/8" ABS plastic. A coulomb meter, battery disconnect, and probably a cell phone mount so I can use the GPS speedometer will go in the dash.

 

[Bmr4Karts]

My battery was held in place with a strap as well. I built a frame that went around the bottom of the battery and the strap held it down.

If the plate is that thick is should be fine. The one I watch a video on was thinner material but was purchased from ebay.

How many volts is your pack?

 

[EpsilonZero]

I am going to try the rubber flooring on the floor pan and rubber between the battery and the forks so the battery is only contacting straps or rubber. Hopefully that does it, but some angle iron or something similar for a frame like you did could be an option. I'm trying not to modify the frame more than I have to; I have only drilled a new bolt circle for the steering wheel and a couple of holes for the motor mount so far.

The battery is a LiFePO4 with 51.2v nominal, 58.4v fully charged. It is supposed to last over 6000 cycles with 80% depth of discharge and doesn't even explode.

 

[Bmr4Karts]

I am going to try the rubber flooring on the floor pan and rubber between the battery and the forks so the battery is only contacting straps or rubber. Hopefully that does it, but some angle iron or something similar for a frame like you did could be an option. I'm trying not to modify the frame more than I have to; I have only drilled a new bolt circle for the steering wheel and a couple of holes for the motor mount so far.

The battery is a LiFePO4 with 51.2v nominal, 58.4v fully charged. It is supposed to last over 6000 cycles with 80% depth of discharge and doesn't even explode.

You'll be doing over 40mph if you want to. May get a little hairy though.

 

[EpsilonZero]

You'll be doing over 40mph if you want to. May get a little hairy though.

I would be legitimately happy with a "torquey" 25mph, but I think the gearing will put me at 30+. I will mostly be driving around with my sons. I need to get my oldest on his Dune Buggy instead of me driving it and him driving his Jeep. He decided to clip me after I told him not to tonight and it is now out of commission. The new front axle assembly is on the way.

 

[Bmr4Karts]

I would be legitimately happy with a "torquey" 25mph, but I think the gearing will put me at 30+. I will mostly be driving around with my sons. I need to get my oldest on his Dune Buggy instead of me driving it and him driving his Jeep. He decided to clip me after I told him not to tonight and it is now out of commission. The new front axle assembly is on the way.

You've got that in the bag. You're only limited by your controller (50 amps cont) otherwise your battery and motor are stout.

 

[EpsilonZero]

You've got that in the bag. You're only limited by your controller (50 amps cont) otherwise your battery and motor are stout.

The controller is 120A continuous/350A peak (30sec), though. It is a Kelly KLS6030H. Of course it is 0A continuous until it actually gets here.

 

[Bmr4Karts]

The controller is 120A continuous/350A peak (30sec), though. It is a Kelly KLS6030H. Of course it is 0A continuous until it actually gets here.

Cool, I thought you ordered the Kelly you mentioned earlier.

Did you order the Bluetooth dongle? I'm running a KLS96501-8080H and the BT connection is very helpful.

 

[EpsilonZero]

I did order the BT dongle. Can you even run the controller without doing some setup through BT or hard connection? There is a motor setup routine, isn't there?

 

[Bmr4Karts]

I did order the BT dongle. Can you even run the controller without doing some setup through BT or hard connection? There is a motor setup routine, isn't there?

You are correct. The BT connection is far more convenient than hardwire to a laptop.

P.S. No chain on the motor when doing the initial setup.

 

[EpsilonZero]

You are correct. The BT connection is far more convenient than hardwire to a laptop.

P.S. No chain on the motor when doing the initial setup.

But, isn't that how you get the magic blue smoke? I saw a video of a guy who hooked up his Kelly controller to his e-bike for the first time and had his friend just gun the throttle. The motor wiggled back and forth and then the controller burned right up. I think that was the last video in his build series.

 

[EpsilonZero]

I decided on my mechanical to hall throttle setup. I just need to clamp the cables. I am considering crushing electrical wire butt connectors (bad if I need to replace a part), modified throttle cable stops, or a proper square cable clamp if I can find one.

 

[Functional Artist]

I decided on my mechanical to hall throttle setup. I just need to clamp the cables. I am considering crushing electrical wire butt connectors (bad if I need to replace a part), modified throttle cable stops, or a proper square cable clamp if I can find one.

A cable clamp is what your lookin' for

Electric Scooter Parts has them (~$.85)
https://electricscooterparts.com/throttlesstandard.html

* Be sure to check your cable size, before ordering
...they have a couple of different sizes

Cable Clamp with 0.122 Inch (3.1mm) ID
Cable clamp for cable pull throttle sold above. Connects two throttle cables together. 0.122" (3.1mm) ID x 0.315" (8mm) OD. Made from nickel plated steel. Includes socket set screw. Socket set screw requires 1.5mm Allen (hex) wrench to tighten and loosen

Cable Clamp with 0.161 Inch (4.1mm) ID
Cable clamp for cable pull throttle sold above. Connects two throttle cables together. 0.161" (4.1mm) ID x 0.35" (9mm) OD. Made from nickel plated steel. Includes socket set screw. Socket set screw requires 1.5mm Allen (hex) wrench to tighten and loosen.

 

[EpsilonZero]

I didn't know they had cable clamps. I just spent $2.50 on a square cable clamp. Oh well, with as much as I am spending already I suppose it doesn't make much of a difference. I will keep this in mind for my next cable clamp purchase.

 

[EpsilonZero]

Cut out and fitted blank dashboard from 1/8" ABS plastic while the kids were asleep this morning. A full time job, awake kids, and waiting for parts ensure this is a long term project...

 

[EpsilonZero]

Well, I got the controller yesterday evening and I'm still sitting in my garage messing with it. It looks to me like the main contactor failed on the assembly and I am conversing with Kelly via emails. It clicked a few times and then no more. I got the motor detected, but voltage sags on the controller side to down to nothing under throttle. The motor runs fine if I bridge it (after allowing voltage to equalize first, of course). I still don't have a seat or brake and I need to disassemble a bit to put the rubber floor in under the battery, so it isn't like I'd be cruising right now anyway.

Note that I pulled the chain and sprocket before motor identification. I just took a pic as soon as I slapped the controller on.

 

[Bmr4Karts]

I run the same type of contactor, sucks yours failed. I'm impressed buy how much room there is behind your seat. My motor almost touched the back of my seat. I do remember that your chassis was made to handle larger engines so that makes sense.

 

[EpsilonZero]

There is still plenty to do while waiting on the new contactor. The rubber floorpan cover has been cut and installed. The XLR charging port finally arrived and it has been added to the dash along with another on/off switch. Much wiring to follow...

 

[EpsilonZero]

I managed to wire in all of my controls while waiting for the contactor and that arrived today. I replaced it and got the kart running, though I don't have a seat or mechanical brake (regen brake only). It doesn't look like the draw on the battery was more than 50 amps and I need to fiddle with some settings, but I managed 30mph.

https://youtu.be/ABnY7ZkvtF8

I also hooked up the headlight and front marker lights. Still waiting on brake lights.

 

[Bmr4Karts]

I managed to wire in all of my controls while waiting for the contactor and that arrived today. I replaced it and got the kart running, though I don't have a seat or mechanical brake (regen brake only). It doesn't look like the draw on the battery was more than 50 amps and I need to fiddle with some settings, but I managed 30mph.

https://youtu.be/ABnY7ZkvtF8

I also hooked up the headlight and front marker lights. Still waiting on brake lights.

You've got more MPH and acceleration available. Kelly gave me these settings for increasing acceleration power.

Accel Time at 1
TPS MAP at 80.
Torque speed Kp at 6000
Torque speed Ki at 400
Speed err limit at 4000

Also, make sure battery and phase current are set to 100% if you truly want to accelerate as quick as possible AS LONG AS your battery can handle it.