Kartco Model 675

[RyRes]

We picked this kart up from Craigslist as a father and son project. We are new to go karts/small engines and new members of DIY Go Karts. Thanks for all of the great info provided on this site - it will make the project SO much easier.

 

[RyRes]

Project Details

Here is some more info:

Manufacturer: Kartco, Sebastopol MS
Model: ? (We think 675 based on other pictures on the internet)
Engine: Predator 212cc (not shown)
Clutch: Centrifugal, 10 Tooth
Axle: Live axle
Sprocket: 54 Tooth
Front Wheels: 4.1/3.5-4
Rear Wheels: 4.1/3.5-5

What needs fixed:

Engine: Haven't tried to start because they said it sat for two years and they ran it without an air box therefore rain/bark in carb, gas in the oil, some rust around the valves, etc
Tires: All are either worn through/torn or almost worn through
Axle: Key missing on left rear wheel so burrs in keyway caused by running without key need to be ground out in order to install new key
Chain: Broken
Mount Plate: When they mounted the Predator they used the stock mount plate, so clutch teeth are not aligned with the sprocket
Clutch: Currently may or may not work
Paint: We plan on wire wheeling and priming/painting

We'll update this thread with more photos as the project progresses.

 

[itsid]

Allow me to suggest an order of operation ...

If it IS a 675
First thing I'd do is make sure the axle is still straight,
once that's done fix the axle keyways, then check/replace bearings.

if it's a 605, then the right wheel is a freewheel and only the left one is driven anyways.
(should be fairly obvious once you removed the right wheel from the stub/axle)

After that has been done I think A thorough check of the frame would be next IMHO
(no cracks, front axle beam, bushings, steering, spindles etc...)
and fix what needs fixing.

Then it'd be time to crack open the engine check if anything is in need of a replacement
and if so, what replacement parts would cost vs what a new predator would cost to make a final decision on the engine.

The mounting plate was meant to take a 6horse tecumseh power sport,
the predator is a drop in replacement for that, the sprockets of a cent clutch should line up nicely.
Apart from the predator having a very short shaft (which is making things a bit more difficult)
all you should need is maybe a spacer behind the clutch for good sprocket alignement.
At worst you need to make a small shaft extension (3/4" keyed shaft hollow drilled for the fixing bolt and cut to length)
you are likely going to need one of those to securely mount the TC you are thinking about getting.

In case your clutch is shot and you have a live axle kart.. do not buy a cent clutch, instead step up to the TC directly. (IMHO!)
it's well worth it and since TCs are cheap these days there's no real reason to buy a 30 dollar cent clutch any longer.

Also check the axle sprocket for wear and replace it if it's not in perfectly good shape!
reason being, you are about to install a new clutch/TC sprocket and a new chain.
if you have a worn sprocket on the axle, it will prematurely wear the chain down which in turn eats away on the TC sprocket and as a result none is actually holding as long as it should.

testfit the engine clutch and chain to see if you need additional spacers or need to move the engine or whatever.

Once all testfitting has been done and confirmed,
it's time to strip, sand, primer and paint the frame
make/buy seat paddings if you want to
and finally install freshly socked wheels.

that way you shouldn't need to touch anything more than once before painting,
wheels last since having a roller during painting stage is convenient and you don't ruin perfectly good tyres with primer or paint

'sid

 

[RyRes]

First Progress

Our Kartco 675 was meant to have a live axle. Some time during its past life, the key on the left wheel went missing. The key on the right wheel remained in place. So while the engine drove the left wheel it spun over the keyway in the axle being spun at the same time by the right wheel. As you can imagine, there were a fair number of burrs in the keyway which were preventing a new key from being installed.

A rotary tool made quick work of the burrs in the keyway on the axle. The keyway in the sprocket/wheel hub required hand filing and took a good deal longer. In the end, the hub slid snugly over the newly installed key and the Kartco 675 was a live axle again.

We reinstalled the sprocket, wheel hubs, and wheels. There was a very slight wobble in the sprocket when the wheels spun, probably due to the axle being slightly worn down, but not too much. We'll still take a closer look to verify that the axle is actually straight, but it was satisfying to take our first step forward on this project.