Kart Rods

[88nightrider]

Might need a chain roller on the frame for the inboard chain

Edit: You could also have different gearing on the engines. One for acceleration. And one for top speed. Just a thought

 

[Kelly Wood]

Totally! LOL

Might have to rig two finger throttles too for this. Once the lower geared engine gets taken over by the speed engine, one would have to back off or it's just rappin out and could blow.

It'd sound cool though. pop pop

boom

This is gonna be neat.

Rev rev... Floor engine one.... take off pretty quick.... as it gets to top speed, start pulling on the other engine and bring it up while letting the other one back down a bit. LOL

It'll be like having a 2 speed.

Wonder what gearing to try here.

Oh, so many possibilities.

 

[itsid]

One way clutch,
like the starter clutch from your briggs_s

or a differential setup (I think I had that idea pictured a while ago)
where one engine turn the left shaft of a std diff, and the other the right shaft.
(with different ratios)
the diff housing then drives the rear axle.

Nevermind

But small (narrow) chains are still available, aren't they..
I think the one I got from OMB just last week is non "space chain"
So that's not an issue here is it?

'sid

 

[Kelly Wood]

LOL< you're a funny one Sid.

Yea... but this new way opens up the actual 2 speed possibility... and If I can do it without spending more money that's the way it will go.

 

[itsid]

well then..

you'd want the second engines engagement speed
close to the top speed of the first engine.

So the first engine (assume it's governed) does 3600 rpm,
while the other just engages at 2000 rpms.
that's a 1.8 ratio

so the second engines clutch should have 18 teeth when the first got ten.
or if both clutches are identical, then it's 54 teeth for one sprocket and 30 for the other

or am I missing something?

The question is:
the first clutch is fully engaged of course while the second engine revs up, thus driving the first engines chain (clutch engaged) and engine.
can the first clutch disengage when reversely driven by the second engine once fully engaged?

*shrugs* I'd say no...
and we're back on the "pop pop boom" part of the theory

Only thing I can think of to prevent this is backing of the first engine below engagement speeds BEFORE you rev up the second.

that'd take some experiments to see what wheel rpm you end up the moment the first engine's clutch disengages.

Uh sience


'sid

 

[Kelly Wood]

LOL

Yup, just let off throttle 1 when throttle 2 is pulled and see what happens... and hold on...

Throttle one will be left finger trigger, throttle 2 will be on the right. That will kind of simulate a natural "let out the clutch" type of action when engine 2 fires.

Plus, with the alternating RPM's, it should sound unique... perhaps like a clunky old plane.

plip plip plop plop... sputta sputta, blub blub.... Vroom!

Boom

yea.

 

[Desertduler]

LOL

Yup, just let off throttle 1 when throttle 2 is pulled and see what happens... and hold on...

Throttle one will be left finger trigger, throttle 2 will be on the right. That will kind of simulate a natural "let out the clutch" type of action when engine 2 fires.

Plus, with the alternating RPM's, it should sound unique... perhaps like a clunky old plane.

plip plip plop plop... sputta sputta, blub blub.... Vroom!

Boom

yea.

It indeed would work!
Great idea!

 

[Orange Krate]

LOL

Yup, just let off throttle 1 when throttle 2 is pulled and see what happens... and hold on...

Throttle one will be left finger trigger, throttle 2 will be on the right. That will kind of simulate a natural "let out the clutch" type of action when engine 2 fires.

Plus, with the alternating RPM's, it should sound unique... perhaps like a clunky old plane.

plip plip plop plop... sputta sputta, blub blub.... Vroom!

Boom

yea.

THIS is an AWESOME concept! The only thing (that I can think of) that would make it even more fun to drive would be aircraft toggle switches!

 

[itsid]

Okay.. I still think you could kill your first engine;
it'd rev up to roughly 6500 rpm the governor internals will most likely fail at one point,
and you have countless plastic and some metal parts on the loose inside the crankcase.
Even with the governor removed I doubt the crankshaft bushing can stand that treatment.
that sounds more like a task for a raptor block

That's why I suggested a one way clutch/bearing.
And I put it on the first engines axle sprocket...
that way the sprocket will be allowed to run slower than the second engines sprocket
and the first engine can slow down to disengage the clutch, even with the second engine revving up.

'sid

 

[Kelly Wood]

Okay.. I still think you could kill your first engine;
it'd rev up to roughly 6500 rpm the governor internals will most likely fail at one point,
and you have countless plastic and some metal parts on the loose inside the crankcase.
Even with the governor removed I doubt the crankshaft bushing can stand that treatment.
that sounds more like a task for a raptor block

That's why I suggested a one way clutch/bearing.
And I put it on the first engines axle sprocket...
that way the sprocket will be allowed to run slower than the second engines sprocket
and the first engine can slow down to disengage the clutch, even with the second engine revving up.

'sid

We'll see...

 

[Kelly Wood]

Update:

Home from work with some sun left in the day, out to do a little cleaning up and make the Baroness' frame right.

Bracing here, bracing there, weld this, weld that... bla bla... it should hold up pretty good.

Keep in mind y'all, this is just pieces & parts I cut off and scrounge up and this frame is like... parts from some 5 + different places. I forgot just where it all came from.

But, it's coming together.

Next, gotta run the steering under the front or we'll have nowhere to put the feet, and we'll also set the engines and line up the dual gear system soon.

Yup.

 

[Kelly Wood]

Lunchtime update, I'm taking this to my facebook page now. Time to get this thing off the ground.

www.facebook.com/Kartrods

Like it if you like...

Thanks for watching.

 

[itsid]

EP02... *cough*

Soooo finally you admit it

'sid

 

[Kelly Wood]

Continuing on...

Friday evening after work I'm outside because I really want to know if the dual setup on this is REALLY GOING to function.

In short: We're back to the dual geared clutch with Farm Chain. It's the only way it's gonna work.

Stagger the engines won't work because there's not enough room to go sideways. One way hits me, the other hits the wheels.

Running a clutch inboard & outboard is out because the chains will just hit each other...

... and BOTH, not one, BOTH frame cross bars are in the way of the first engine and its chain ever reaching the rear axle... unless you used 2 idler gears and maybe a tensioner...

... and I"m not going that way.

So back to the rear engine having a dual geared clutch. Now to find some farm chain. Yup.

On the lighter side, steering is done and working well. I ran it under the frame giving me the needed room for my feet.

Welded up the post for one rear brace

and...

tada... the machine gun. It's PVC pipe I was going to do two, but visually it was too much. So out with the drill and VIOLA!

More soon.

Thanks for watching

 

[itsid]

cool gun.. it needs a nozzle (short piece of burned copper pipe for example) sticking out.

too bad the 2speed system hasn't worked out as you wanted
But the dual sprocket is still providing nearly twice the torque
with all the benefits of that

Do you think a cordless drill has enough power to start the engine?

Why I ask?
Well.. you said you wanted to go for old school starter cups instead of the recoil starter now.
And I thought maybe you can just add a starter nut instead of the cups.

Camouflage a cordless drill with the machine gun you just made,
and if you want to start the engines pick up the gun and "shoot" them on

'sid

 

[Kelly Wood]

Good idea. I think a cordless would start them. I used one to start a 3.5 and it worked fine so... Way good idea. Black out a cordless drill and make it part of the gun. I love this idea.

Love it.

 

[Kelly Wood]

Update:

Switching gears for today...

I figured I'd better get the Wrecker working since I have everything and I need a change of pace. Been working on my daughters kart with the new Briggs LO206 and this motor just pisses me off....

So on with the wrecker for a bit.

Update on those pulley brakes... don't even try it. Rubber standard belts will bind and darn near rip something apart, they still managed to travel around in circles ( as if they were a chain) even smashed together with their inner ribs lined up too. Dual clamps were used and they simply don't grab... they sit and vibrate and if they do grab... they fold up and bind everything up. Luckily, they didn't "brake" anything. HA!

The cloth like yard equipment type I didn't even try. They cost too much for this and I just gave up. Stupid... don't try it. Danger.

In summary: I lit 35 dollars on fire.

We'll put something else on when I get a minute. I have a band brake setup, brand new.

Just lots of fine tuning mostly for this today, make a throttle setup, tighten this & that.

I managed to get 6 runs out of her... without brakes mind you but I had to shake it down.

The usual happened, lost a bolt here & there, come back, fix that, lube that, bolt that back on, realign the front end... find another rear axle bolt (yup) etc...

But in the end...The Wrecker is a runner and lots of folks in the neighborhood seemed to approve.

She's low and although kind of slow (only about 40 mph), but she's fun to drive. As a test bed, it's first engine was the Briggs Intek. We'll check that off the the list as a runner and use it somewhere.

Pics show just how low it is. Think back and remember what a pile of crap I started with and you can appreciate what she is now.

Thanks for watching.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Dynamite! Seeing you whip by one one of these things has GOT to be quite a sight for the uninitiated...

Shame about the belt-based band brake, but that's R&D for ya!

 

[DaiSan76]

I found your next project.

 

[landuse]

I found your next project.

You are going to need some ear protection driving this thing...LOL