Kart Project Week 1

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Randy

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1) Purchased Go Kart
2) Set up room in the garage
3) Join DIY Go Kart
4) Take Pictures
5) Start Thread
6) Remind myself not to ask how to trick out HF 6.5 on forums
 

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Randy

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Pics Continued

Here are some more pics.
 

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Randy

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Interesting Front Suspension

The front spindles are attatched to a independant cross member by a 1" bolt. The travel is limited by two L shaped tabs attatched to the front of the frame. Im not sure of how it works other than I think it would be noisy. At this point Im looking for advise on this set up. Im wondering if I should mount the spindles to the actual frame or use some small bushing to keep the metal from constantly hiting metal. I must have looked at thousands of go karts and Im still not sure if this is a home made one or kit or production model. Most of the welds look really good some look like I welded it.
 

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r97

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Have You Got Plans For This Or You Making This From Scratch ? Looks Good Kart Anyway !

:mad2:

randy, did you paint that tc? i wouldn't imagine its to good for the tc, blaz would know for sure. i would say that your kart is definitely a production kart with a few "modifications".
 

redsox985

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The paint can't be good. Maybe wire wheel it off? The steering is non-Ackerman but looks decent. The Ackerman principle would make it easier to control.
 

Blazkowiez

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Its a Carter Go-Kart, eh. As long as the clutch moves a thin layer of paint isn't the end of the world, the surfaces the belt rides on will be worn down by the belt itself. We've seen these painted over and over by customers, after I rebuilt a clutch I usually spray the outer pieces with a thin layer of clear to keep it from rusting (Houston is humid) but the belt always clears the 2 surfaces quickly. I'd sand the 2 surfaces down and spray the inside with cleaner until it moves freely and go with the flow.
 

Hendersonjk

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nice another carter cart, my father inlaw has the same one waiting for me to redo. let me know how that front end holds up and that plate beside the engine is for a jackshaft mine is missing too
 

Randy

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WEEK#2 Questions at the End of the Post

WEEK 2
1)Dismantle the kart
2)Straighten steering shaft and side bars
3)Ground Down sharp corners and spatter
4)Cut the lip off of the jack shaft plate that was sticking out from frame
5)Take for media blast

Okay I just wanted to point out that thread locker is used to make it difficult for the bolt to come loose. If it is hard to put in then you are cross threading the bolt. The previous owner had some sort of thread locker fetish. There are also several threads in the hubs that will need to chased for sure. There is one bolt hole on the drive hub that is ½” smooth bore.

I straightened the bars by using a ratcheting tie down. This worked great for this type of tube. There were several sharp corners on the front of the frame where the original spindles were mounted. I ground them smooth not only looks but if I had the front tire bite on this it would have shredded it.
I dropped the kart off at the fabrication shop for sand blasting. I was hoping to clean it up myself to save some money. However, In addition to a thread locker fetish, the previous owner loved stickers and paint then stickers and more paint. After about 30 min of this and getting nowhere, I said “FI” and dropped it off. I should be able to pick it up Thursday. Powder coating is out of my budget but I was thinking POR 15. Any thoughts on this?

Question #1: Is tire balance a big deal on a go kart? If I use some sort of insert or convert to wheel studs and repair the hole with jb weld is it going to be out of balance to the point of noticing?

Question #2: The wheels are two piece aluminum and I cannot separate them from the tire. Is there a trick to this I tried but I seem to be bending the wheel very easily?

No!!! I did not paint the TC, I got the Kart in this condition. I wire wheeled some of the paint off to get some identifying numbers off of it in hopes that someone will help me identify it.

Question #3: There is spray paint all over the inner large coil spring. Can I use paint remover on it? How can I tell if the TC needs to be rebuilt or freshened up prior to install? Who can rebuild it and how much should I expect to pay?

Question #4: What is the exact alignment of the TC with the engine drive wheel? When I got the kart the TC was about 3” out of line. My understanding of the TC is that it opens and closes as speed is increased. Every picture I have seen is taken on a bit of an angle or has a cover. Can someone show me a picture or a measuring diagram?

Thanks again for all your help with this project. I know that with DIYGK, I can make the kind of kart my kids deserve and I have always wanted.
 

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r97

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1 tire balance is not a big deal on a yard kart.
2 if the tires are 2 piece aluminum you should be able to take out the bolts holding the pieces together, pop the tire bead off, and separate the two pieces.
3 i don't know that paint remover is bad, but i would go at it with a wire brush, if anything your tc could use a cleaning and some lube, blaz can assist you in that.
4 my understanding is that a 20 series driver and driven are aligned but the driven floats on the jack shaft. blaz? correct me if i'm incorrect.
 

Blazkowiez

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The driven only really floated on a jack-shaft for MaxTorque Torque Converters, Comet Series 20 clutches did not do this, you're getting mixed up from that maintenance video from the website you posted a few weeks ago.

You're lining the driven clutch inboard based on expansion, try to line their centers up based on both clutches fully expanded during operation, I know this doesn't help all that much given I'm not letting you have the whole story but i'm slightly pressed on time.

Randy, you're doing a great job so far, read this regardng cleaning your drive clutch here.

As far as the driven clutch goes you can spray the whole thing with cleaner over and over, we use brake cleaner mainly to remove debris, this assembly should be free of anything that inhibits motion.

Your pictures of the driven clutch were very good but the angle I'm looking for is straight down the clutch like many you've shot but showing me the clutch's lobes of the aluminum cam against the buttons on the main portion of the clutch. If you can snap a few angles of that we'll better be able to tell you if this needs to be disassembled and rebuilt. I believe if you do need this fixed you can do it yourself given the right parts ordered online and you will not need to outsource this to a shop if you feel up to the task.


***Feel re-assured that I've only destroyed 1 Comet driven clutch's bushing during reassembly out of many, so if this does happen to you understand its something that happens, although this is not a part you can buy anywhere due to their bankruptcy.***
 

Randy

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Thanks. Ill be working on it this weekend and send you the pics. Thanks for not leaving me hanging. I was getting worried that my simple project was taking a back seat to all the much cooler projects.
 

Doc Sprocket

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If I'm looking at that front "suspension" correctly, the builder stole a page from the tractor world. Possibly better than nothing, but I agree that a little but of rubber to dampen the clatter would be a good idea. Give it a go, and if it detracts from performance, eliminate it...
 

Hendersonjk

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Its a carter front end ( the guy that repairs and sales carts on here told me) I could see it being ok for asphalt. this is the one I need to get a start on
 

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