Kart build- brakes

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karl

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The bike wheels are a death trap, when you turn the front tires will basically collapse, and alot of stuff looks pretty iffy. Be careful.
 

denhammotors

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Well, I used to believe that rubbish was true, until I actually found out for myself that they were fine when I first drove this back in June. Indeed the spoked wheels are much weaker than solid steel rims, but only a mechanical hypochondriac would let that kind of unreliable information get in their way when building something. Spoked wheels were used in many four-wheeled applications. Just look up cyclecars from the early 20th century. Spoked wheels were all there was in the time the automobile was first developed. Do you really think early inventors would worry about the shear strength of spoked wheels when designing a vehicle that changed the world? These types of wheels were used on countless inexpensive models without fail. Sorry, but the common go kart wheels would not fit the aesthetics of my design.
 

theo

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You are right the spoke wheels do look good on you buggy. With spoke wheels the spokes start off by getting loose which over time the spoke brake usually at the hub, so if you can keep them tight they might last for a while. I have had lots to do with wheel chairs, and with aggressive riders this is what happens. If you check around look for wheel chair composite rims they would be better. Like these.

http://www.skywaywheels.com/products_006.htm
 

denhammotors

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Well, today I hooked up the throttle cable. It's all complete except for a torsion spring at the pedal (I also need one for the brake pedal). The throttle is so smooth I questioned whether or not the cable was actually doing anything. I will post some pics tomorrow.
 

squat251

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looks like a riot. totally with you on the spokes not seeing it as an issue. with the angle in your front wheels you should be fine as far as sideways pressure goes, you *might* have issues in the back a ways down the road, but it looks like its made for the street more than off road, so i really don't think you will have any issues until way way off in the future.

my first cart had flintstone brakes for a long time. (till i crashed into a tree while showing off) no good in an emergency, but if you drive smart that shouldn't be an issue, atleast until you get the brakes hooked up.

look forward to seeing the front brakes set up, always wanted to do a set on one of my carts but driving it as it was always got in the way.
 

denhammotors

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Sorry for the lack of updates. I've made a door frame with a homemade latch which works great, and I have started making the bodywork, starting with the front panel. The material is 24 gauge Galvalume (aluminium zinc alloy coated steel). I will have to get some more of it sometime as I have already run out. I do still have enough to make the door panel, though. I plan to put some rubber edge trim around the outside of the paneling to get rid of the sharp edges.
 

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soggycrashed

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Just some advice: band brakes and no front brakes.
People don't realize that if you have a good foot, bands are perfect.

Going at 45mph (about 200lbs kart) mine will immediately lock the wheel w/ band and a rod (and my strong foot). Of course, it then slides and skids.

You usually can get away with one or two brakes on the front. Front will give you better stopping power on bigger vehicles, but on a kart like this, it'll do nothing and possibly mess up your steering.

That's just my take. Discs obviously overpower bands, but they work as long as you stomp on them.
 

Doc Sprocket

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IMHO, yes and no.

*Poor quality brake bands (ask Blazkowiez about these) are a useless waste of time and money.

*You must have the leverage in the linkages halfway correct.

* Bands do not function for s**t in reverse.

* A brake system I have to STOMP on, isn't worth a damm to me.
 

soggycrashed

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IMHO, yes and no.

*Poor quality brake bands (ask Blazkowiez about these) are a useless waste of time and money.

*You must have the leverage in the linkages halfway correct.

* Bands do not function for s**t in reverse.

* A brake system I have to STOMP on, isn't worth a damm to me.

I don't have to push extremely hard, kind of fun for me to stomp on :)

One disadvantage I forgot to mention was that eventually, the brake material heats up due to friction and you have to press even harder.
I've had some poor quality ones - fell to pieces when I was about to hit a fence.

I've been using the same bands for 3 years, still good. Ride the thing every day.

My kart doesn't have a gearbox, so no reverse, but when being pushed, they work good enough.

Again, discs still overrule.
 

denhammotors

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Cyclecar build

Started working on the rear bodywork, which pivots on two cabinet hinges mounted to the seat for engine access. 24 gauge galvanized steel. The side panels are riveted to sections of 1" aluminium angle along the corners. I still have to do the other side and make additional bracing out of some 1" flat steel to keep it rigid. After this will be the door panel.
 

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denhammotors

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Did some more work on the car. It looks all complete in the photos, but a lot more riveting needs to be done, and some more brackets need to be made for the rear hood. Also attached the door panel, and by the time it's finished, the gaps between panels should be less visible after I put the edge trim on.

My progress has been slowed down by an eye injury yesterday. I was grinding, wearing a mask, but a small bit of steel still managed to get lodged into my right eye. However, at the time, I already had conjunctivitis in the same eye, so I couldn't tell if something was in it. I only saw the shard of metal in my eye a few hours later. Had to go down to the ER to get it removed with a needle (not a very fun experience). My eye is still recovering from the corneal abrasion, so I wasn't able to do much in the garage today.
 

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soggycrashed

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Some photos. Brake assembly, one of the tie rods, the frame of the seat (from a folding chair), and one of the axle hubs that I made to weld onto the hub of the wheel. Not tightened in the photo, but I think I may want to put some rubber spacer between the 2 flanges to act as a "shock mount". The last picture is a big mess on my workbench.

Thank you for putting the steering wheel on the CORRECT WAY.
 
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