Kango electric go-cart- I need help

[Whopner1@yahoo.com]

Hello Forum.

I just got a Kango cart, and it is fabulous. Now I have a problem. It goes too fast. When I push on the accelerator it burns rubber. This thing is a fast monster. I want to slow it down when my grandkids go to ride it. I found a wiring schematic with a section for the speed generator, but the print is too small to read.

It looks like Kango made a plug in module that could be moved around to slow this thing down or speed it up.

Does anyone have a big copy of the wiring diagram? Maybe if you have a PDF of it I could blow it up to study it.

 

[itsid]

No need for a wiring diagram actually...

The Kango came with a six position governor switch (The K1 as well as the K1.2 and the K1.22) so yes, single seater and two seater as well as the two seater two motor version.

Now, that six position switch is the only thing that's connected to the throttle.
So, just follow the wires on the kart from the throttle and you'll end up at the switch.

That switch -as said- has six positions; it basically lowers the voltage by a certain percentage.
[EDIT]
even simpler.. it's likely a variable resistor type switch, since that throttle pedal is a resistor type too... [EoE]


lowest setting should reach to about 6mph.. highest to about 26mph (28?? I can't remember)
Anywhoo, to tell what switch has been used (to find the key/tool you'd need to reset it)
we need a picture of that.
without it, it'll be impossible to tell, since that company went OOB 12 years ago,
so there's no 'simple' way to find specs or manuals other than by chance.

But identifying a part visually is going to be much quicker;
since everything they used was taken from Golf Carts (motors, controllers, batteries, throttle.. and hopefully even that switch in question)


'sid

 

[Whopner1@yahoo.com]

thank you for the suggestion. I found the switch, but it got dark before I could take it apart. Can I get to it by removing the plastic that I thought kept it from absorbing moisture?

I will post a picture tomorrow.

 

[Whopner1@yahoo.com]

Here is a diagram.

 

[itsid]

You got me wrong..

Take a photo of the switch, do not take anything apart just yet.

'sid

 

[Whopner1@yahoo.com]

Hello again.

I am at work, so I cannot post the throttle picture yet. I will do that tonight after I get home.

Can you tell me the wattage rating of the throttle variable resister control? Also, can you tell me the Ohms it should read?

I tested it earlier, and I did not write down the resistance measurement. Do you know what they are supposed to be?

I think I have a way of toning it down, but I need to know the values before I start.

There is a plug in module on the back. Actually it is a microphone plug. I am thinking it is part of some kit that came with the cart that allowed one to change it to change the speed. That way kids could not set the speed without the proper plugin.

 

[itsid]

Sorry;
I have no idea..

I believe you have an older Curtis controller (which is an assumption, maybe not even more than a wild guess )
But it appears to be...

anyways, that means the throttle pedal is seeing no more than 5V, and maybe a couple hundred milliamps; which would be rather common for a setup like that.

So, the throttle.. maybe is rated at max 5 Watts (to allow a 1Amp peak)
And the resistor (governing speed resistor thingamabob)
will need to match that.

I think something within the same specs as the throttle (0-5k Ohms; 5V, ~500mA) should do.

But again, it's much much easier to just see and judge by what you can find on the actual parts.
(manufacturers signage, maybe a proper label... even the design can help )

While you're at it, take a pic of your controller too, just to see what you're dealing with.

Oh.. btw there is absolutely no need to REPLACE the speed governor, as I said it'll be a six speed switch, that may only need a more or less sophisticated tool to be set.
(likely some sort of fake key or something)

I can't tell you what kind of resistance it'll read, not without knowing what part you have.
the throttle is easy though.. 5kOhms at rest, 0Ohms fully depressed.
And likely the variable resistor will read
0 ohms at it's highest speed position, other speed settings will be less than 5kOhms for sure
(likely less than 4K even..) other than that I can't tell without pics.


If it had an audio jack attached (with 'specialized' speed plugs)
I could imagine it's no potentiometer switch at all, instead just a bypassing audio jack.
it's very likely that's only a soldered in resistor to the plug...
to get to 6mph I guess a 3.5-4k Ohm resistor will do the trick
(think ~ 180 Ohms per mph to be removed from top speed)
i.e. 28mph - 22mph = 6mph...
22mph * 180 Ohms = 3960 Ohms,
drop a few to compensate for heat dissipation... 3.5k Ohms... about'ish

'sid

 

[Whopner1@yahoo.com]

Hello again. I just posted all my pictures, but I cannot seem to figure out how to get them here. I did it last night, but I cannot do it tonight. I put them in an album entitled "My Kango electric go-cart."

Let me know what you think.

I do not know how to find the album.

---------- Post added at 05:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:27 PM ----------

the switch from the right side.

and here is the picture from the left side.

 

[itsid]

found the album..
(just open your own profile by clicking on your username here...)

Aanyways...
yes, nice, unfortunately not very helpful at all

What you need to identify is the part with the red cap (backside of the seat on the right)
That is the governor (well I belive it is since it's connected to the throttle connection on the controller)

But frankly:
detail pics: 1024pix wide close up... not all the parts in one 640px wide image please

'sid

PS click the blue "Post reply" button, scroll down, and click manage attachments to add a pic to your post.

PPS ah you found it...
But the throttle itself is completely unimportant for the question you're asking ... !!

 

[Whopner1@yahoo.com]

I will take a better picture of the controller later tonight. I did not think to photograph it earlier today.

---------- Post added at 05:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:48 PM ----------

found the album..
(just open your own profile by clicking on your username here...)

Aanyways...
yes, nice, unfortunately not very helpful at all

What you need to identify is the part with the red cap (backside of the seat on the right)
That is the governor (well I belive it is since it's connected to the throttle connection on the controller)

But frankly:
detail pics: 1024pix wide close up... not all the parts in one 640px wide image please

'sid

PS click the blue "Post reply" button, scroll down, and click manage attachments to add a pic to your post.

PPS ah you found it...
But the throttle itself is completely unimportant for the question you're asking ... !!

Yes, I do see what you are talking about. I will try the resistor. Right now two pins of the mic plug are connected by a straight wire. There would be no resistance. Once I try the resistor I will know.

I do suppose that I could install a variable resistor pot so that I could dial up more or less speed. This thing is so fun to ride. It screams. I can slide-turn around inside my own footprint. It will do donuts all day long. I had no idea that electric motors could provide so much torque.

---------- Post added at 06:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:53 PM ----------

Here is what that red thing looks like. It is a microphone plug common to all cb radios, and when I took it apart two of the pins are shorted by a straight wire.

---------- Post added at 06:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:02 PM ----------

I think I replied to myself. sorry. I will figure this all out sooner or later.

 

[Whopner1@yahoo.com]

I am still trying to slow this cart down. Today I made it go faster thinking I was slowing it.

I finally took pictures of the components of the cart. The controller has some letters on it. Does anyone know what they mean?

---------- Post added at 07:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:34 PM ----------

No need for a wiring diagram actually...

The Kango came with a six position governor switch (The K1 as well as the K1.2 and the K1.22) so yes, single seater and two seater as well as the two seater two motor version.

Now, that six position switch is the only thing that's connected to the throttle.
So, just follow the wires on the kart from the throttle and you'll end up at the switch.

That switch -as said- has six positions; it basically lowers the voltage by a certain percentage.
[EDIT]
even simpler.. it's likely a variable resistor type switch, since that throttle pedal is a resistor type too... [EoE]


lowest setting should reach to about 6mph.. highest to about 26mph (28?? I can't remember)
Anywhoo, to tell what switch has been used (to find the key/tool you'd need to reset it)
we need a picture of that.
without it, it'll be impossible to tell, since that company went OOB 12 years ago,
so there's no 'simple' way to find specs or manuals other than by chance.

But identifying a part visually is going to be much quicker;
since everything they used was taken from Golf Carts (motors, controllers, batteries, throttle.. and hopefully even that switch in question)


'sid

Hello Sid,

I included pictures of the red thing. What do you think?

---------- Post added at 07:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:45 PM ----------

I never did find the six position switch, or a variable resistor in the year of the cart.

 

[itsid]

Hi..
I do

M is Motor, B is Batteries..
so M - to the Motor terminal ;
Batteries as labelled and the other motor terminal is directly connected to the positive of the batterie.
(that'd be the most basic layout to control the motor.. there will be switches and contactors and the like just like the diagram shows to make it reliable and safe.. still these basic rules where followed hence the labelling)

Well it's (as in WAS) described as 6 speed switch on their website.. maybe it's just a connector with a handfull of keys (plugs) as you removed that one.

Now.. go and buy another one of those plugs
(say this one * read below)
and a series of small resistors (like these), from around 500 - 3500 Ohms (say 500 Ohm steps; i.e. 500, 1k, 1.5k, 2k, 2.5k, 3k, 3.5k Ohms [or what they have available closest to those numbers])

Now, where your's has the straight wire soldered in;
solder in one of the resistors to the new plug
(start big and work your way down.. 3500 Ohms first)
plug it in..
run the kart... see how fast it goes..

too slow? replace the resistor with the next smaller one (3k ohms)
repeat until the kart is at the speed you'd like for the kids.

if you think one's too slow and the next is too fast, get the resistors that are inbetween to dial in the speed some more (say 4 rsistors 100 ohms apart)
repeat until you're happy about the speed or bothered of soldering in new resistors

*You can of course buy several plugs and make several keys
(for about the same price even or four more)
, but for now.. only one is needed

'sid

PS you do have a good soldering iron, right?

 

[Whopner1@yahoo.com]

Thanks Sid.

I will try that. I already started to get the resistors, but found out quickly that they must be wire wound. Because of the cost I bought a huge variable resistor (Rheostat) but have not had time to try it. Once I figure out how much of a resister I need I will make up a plug in for the kids and another for the bigger kids.

I sure appreciate your help. Did Kango have a web site with information on that switch you talked about?

The throttle variable rheostat was bad, and the cart was either setting still or at full speed. I took the control off, took it all apart, and found a number on it. I have now ordered three new ones. This would be the original equipment replacement. That is exciting. I will post what I found as I go.

It would be my goal to document each part on the cart so that anyone that finds one could put it back to stock quickly and easily using this web site as the source of parts information.

Lastly I will draw up the print with ALL the specifications. I am sure that anyone could turn a go-cart to electric using this circuit. This thing is both fast and fun.

What do you make of the controller? Does it look in any way familiar?

---------- Post added at 03:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:26 PM ----------

Hello again. I just posted all my pictures, but I cannot seem to figure out how to get them here. I did it last night, but I cannot do it tonight. I put them in an album entitled "My Kango electric go-cart."

Let me know what you think.

I do not know how to find the album.

---------- Post added at 05:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:27 PM ----------

the switch from the right side.

and here is the picture from the left side.

Here is the part that was encased in silicone under that red, plastic cap. It is a VISHAY # 657-0-0-203.

Here is the link: http://www.vishay.com/docs/57077/657.pdf

 

[itsid]

Wirewound isn't exactly necessary.. those Pedals work at 5V and see no more than 200mA..
so the absolute max is 1Watt (at full throttle)
carbon film can totally do that (okay one size bigger than I suggested) I thought half that should do under nearly all circumstances.

The link I provided earlier has small (5W wirewound) resistors that do not go up as high, but arre almost as cheap as the ones I linked. (20 instead of 15ct)

Now..
[EDIT]gone[eoE]

Otherwise you'd seen the Throttle resistor must be 5kOhms
for 90° travel (from zero) since that's a 240° travel poti (linear) you have 60° of travel from 0 to 5kOhms

likely the potentiometer is in fully working condition it just broke loose and needs to be adjusted.
OR it's the wrong part completely (PO replacement)
and thus you ordered three more wrong parts...

Now, back to the questions...
Nope, kango does not have a website, they had (a decade ago) but went OOB in 2004 or something.
They had a crappy website (even for that decade) and provided little to no info at all.

Also.. I might recognize the controller, if I've seen it; but you haven't showed us yet!
All we've seen so far is that kango stamped splash proofing that's added afterwards; and frankly with that, there's nothing to identify (other than the kart)
(should I say that an "Electro Man" would know that? ... but I won't )

We don't know what motor you have so not even that could narrow it down.
My bets are still on Curtis something in the 1206 league (just older) actually solidified by the long battery terminals;
but again.. that's nothing more than a guess.

'sid

[EDIT]

Now, rechecked that wiring schematics (the one you provided is the only one I've found myself too (visforvoltage))

If you read (and have a certain expectation to what you read having seen such thing before)
it's quite obvious really..
So let's start with the governor section:
Top: Female to terminal 3 on controller (so far so obvious)
LEFT: Femal Male and Male Female (duh... [the wires the pedal will connect to])
RIGHT: Key <jibberish> (mounting side ?) view
Bottom: Female to terminal 2 on controller

So far so easy.. the jibberish is unimportant, likely just explaining that it's the male connector seen on the schematics and thus the plug (what you have in your hands) is mirrored.

Now, the totally messed up part.. the Accelerator:
Top: Variable resistor at pedal

Bottom: +- 0 - 5000 varying resistance
next line.. +90 pedal <jibberish> ( pedal off position?)
next line .. 5000 (Ohm) = 0 | 0 Ohm = full throttle (meaning the lower the resistance the faster you go)

But get your multimeter handy and MEASURE that dang thing!
No not the variable resistors.. the controller (pin 2 and 3)

'sid pt II.

 

[Whopner1@yahoo.com]

Wirewound isn't exactly necessary.. those Pedals work at 5V and see no more than 200mA..
so the absolute max is 1Watt (at full throttle)
carbon film can totally do that (okay one size bigger than I suggested) I thought half that should do under nearly all circumstances.

The link I provided earlier has small (5W wirewound) resistors that do not go up as high, but arre almost as cheap as the ones I linked. (20 instead of 15ct)

Now..
I just saw you call yourself "Electro Man"... quite a stretch don't you think?
Either you haven't read or didn't understand the wiring schematic you provided.

Otherwise you'd seen the Throttle resistor must be 5kOhms
for 90° travel (from zero) since that's a 240° travel poti (linear) you have 60° of travel from 0 to 5kOhms

likely the potentiometer is in fully working condition it just broke loose and needs to be adjusted.
OR it's the wrong part completely (PO replacement)
and thus you ordered three more wrong parts...

Now, back to the questions...
Nope, kango does not have a website, they had (a decade ago) but went OOB in 2004 or something.
They had a crappy website (even for that decade) and provided little to no info at all.

Also.. I might recognize the controller, if I've seen it; but you haven't showed us yet!
All we've seen so far is that kango stamped splash proofing that's added afterwards; and frankly with that, there's nothing to identify (other than the kart)
(should I say that an "Electro Man" would know that? ... but I won't )

We don't know what motor you have so not even that could narrow it down.
My bets are still on Curtis something in the 1206 league (just older) actually solidified by the long battery terminals;
but again.. that's nothing more than a guess.

'sid

Actually the throttle resistor was 20k ohms. How did you arrive at a value of 5k ohms?

I found several small pots that worked just fine.

Actually I found the schematic and posted it there on the site.


Had it not been for the schematic I would not have arrived at the idea that I would need to do something with the audio plug. I was not too far off.

The large rheostat I bought was how I determined that the throttle resistor was bad, or had a bad spot on it. I by-passed the throttle one with my new one, and the cart was easy to control and accelerated slowly or quickly in a smooth fashion. It goes from .4 ohms to 257k ohms.

When I took the throttle resistor apart it fell apart in my hands. I would say that it was not salvageable.

None of the resistors I got worked except for the wire wound ones. I tried exact values with the same result.

Also, I noticed that when I tested the original throttle resistor it went from .5 ohms at rest to 256K ohms when the pedal was pushed to full acceleration. It seems to work backwards, but it works.

 

[itsid]

because you measure the wrong pins

read my edit above...

'sid

 

[Whopner1@yahoo.com]

because you measure the wrong pins

read my edit above...

'sid

I read the correct pins. I disconnected the throttle control wires and took my measurement there, at the terminal ends. In other words I measured the rheostat through the wires.

The more resistance I add to this throttle circuit the faster the cart goes.

 

[itsid]

well, that means in case of failure that thing goes full throttle instead of shutting down...

Possible, maybe; but does that sound plausible to you?

Again easy to find out if you measure the controller (Pins 2 and 3)
volt (DC) and Amps.
Disconnect the chain before you do, since the multimeter has a bleeding resistance of something in the range of 20kOhm when measuring (at least my cheapo does).
meaning if it's like you said the motor will go full throttle while measuring (I doubt that, but I'm rather wrong than have you hurt in the process)

Now you know the max values you're dealing with.
So buying parts will be a lot easier.

'sid

[EDIT]
I checked some Curtis manuals.. and
-my apologies- you measured indeed correctly!

The Curtis control pod (PB-6) works exactly like you described.. <50 Ohms at rest 5000 Ohms at full speed.
more than 7000 or less than 40 Ohms and the controller takes that as a fault and shuts down.

So... I stand corrected... much more trouble (code wise) than the other way around, but they indeed did that back then.

Anyways..
that let's me read (again.. I read what I expect in that scaled down image)
50-5000 variable resistor
<50 = pedal at rest
5000 (+/- 100) = full throttle

and that pretty much describes the pb6 pot box for Curtis controllers.

I redraw the schematics
and used red text to make it stand out from the actual drawing a bit better


OOps I see I missed a bit.. both contactors are energized with 36V (since that's what the schematics show)
and I missed one wire color.. it was "White" If I'm seeing that correctly.
'sid

 

[Whopner1@yahoo.com]

Thanks so much for the help. I am elderly and could not see the original print so well. This reprint will make it easier to work on.

I see now why you arrived at the 500K pot for the throttle. I picked up another pot today to try.

Now I can fix more on it.

I never considered that a failure could result in full throttle. I usually jack it up with a floor jack before working on it.

 

[itsid]

not 500k; 5k (5000 ohms)

if you'e still having troubles follwing the paths or reading a label, let me know,
I'll blow up that pic some more

And of course .. just as a short will make 0ohms for a while a disconnected wire will have indefinit resistance..
but since the controller takes everything above or below a certain threshold as failure and shuts down... that'd be covered for.

Anyways, throttling it down for the kids now has a whole new quality to it..
since it can't be done with a single wire in your plug.

and frankly parallel resistors are a pain to calculate in my head...
it's RT = R1·R2/(R1+R2)

So RT is the total resistance of the throttle- -let's call it- signal to the controller.
That you want to limit to a value above 50 ohms and below 5000 ohms
to prevent the controller drop into failure mode.

So, as an example let's assume you want half the speed at full pedal depression

your total resistance should be 2500 ohms; the pedal (R1) is adding 5000 so R2 needs to be..
5000 ohms as well (huh?)
odd..
R2 = (R1 * RT) / (R1 - RT) not?

cross checking with different values.. and yes about'ish right.

I take 30mph as ungoverned max speed since that's easier to do in my head than the 28mph

5000 Ohms for half the speed (15 mph)
2500 Ohms for a third of the speed (10 mph)
1666 Ohms for a quarter of the speed (7.5 mph)
1250 Ohms for a fifth of the speed (6 mph)
1000 Ohms for a sixth of the speed (5 mph)

faster than 15mph still governed you need to get really big values; like 20k ohms for 25mph or so..

'sid