Jackshaft with torque converter
- Thread starter zoomy
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Rail rider
Inmate # 3192016
Try these. If 1 and 2 don't fix it ...smash it ... I'm so...band now, Lol.
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Bbqjoe
Banned
I'm confused.
too bad when one tries to be funny but just appears to be pi55drunk...
Now, back to topic.
Zoomy, unfortunately pics taken in the middle of the night are not going well with my elderly eyes
Anyways, no matter where the jackshaft may be, it's input sprocket is INLINE with the clutch.
thus, as long as you can move the engine a bit closer or further from the jackshaft
(to adjust belt tension) mounting a TC shouldn't be much of an issue.
'sid
Now, back to topic.
Zoomy, unfortunately pics taken in the middle of the night are not going well with my elderly eyes
Anyways, no matter where the jackshaft may be, it's input sprocket is INLINE with the clutch.
thus, as long as you can move the engine a bit closer or further from the jackshaft
(to adjust belt tension) mounting a TC shouldn't be much of an issue.
'sid
just this once
Ah I see you are talking of having two jackshafts then...
(the one with the TC pulley and the one already on the kart)
I'm not sure that's a good idea, but fair enough...
The sprocket on a TAV Backplate roughly sits at the same lateral distance from the mounting bolts of the engine, as an inbound mounted clutch sprocket would
(in easier terms.. it's roughly 1.5 - 2" further in than your current clutch sprocket)
So in order to use the backplate the engine has to move said distance to the left,
OR the sprocket on the jackshaft has to move said distance to the right.
IMHO, you could just replace the JS sprocket with the driven pulley and run with just one jackshaft
again, the belt needs to run true to both pulleys some minor adjustment will be required.. (i.e. a washer or two on one or the other side, no big deal)
PS Oh, since you likely though about a TAVKit instead of a ordinary TC,
in case you want to just have ONE jackshaft
find a series 30 TC without backplate;
the belt that comes with the backplate is likely not going to be of the correct length,
and you'll need to buy a new one...
so why pay for a belt and a backplate you'll not use in the first place?
'sid
Ah I see you are talking of having two jackshafts then...
(the one with the TC pulley and the one already on the kart)
I'm not sure that's a good idea, but fair enough...
The sprocket on a TAV Backplate roughly sits at the same lateral distance from the mounting bolts of the engine, as an inbound mounted clutch sprocket would
(in easier terms.. it's roughly 1.5 - 2" further in than your current clutch sprocket)
So in order to use the backplate the engine has to move said distance to the left,
OR the sprocket on the jackshaft has to move said distance to the right.
IMHO, you could just replace the JS sprocket with the driven pulley and run with just one jackshaft
again, the belt needs to run true to both pulleys some minor adjustment will be required.. (i.e. a washer or two on one or the other side, no big deal)
PS Oh, since you likely though about a TAVKit instead of a ordinary TC,
in case you want to just have ONE jackshaft
find a series 30 TC without backplate;
the belt that comes with the backplate is likely not going to be of the correct length,
and you'll need to buy a new one...
so why pay for a belt and a backplate you'll not use in the first place?
'sid
Bbqjoe
Banned
*Snicker*
UHM Nope...
if you remove the jackshaft that's on your kart you should not move the engine,
but the axle sprocket instead!
'sid
if you remove the jackshaft that's on your kart you should not move the engine,
but the axle sprocket instead!
'sid
pRoFiT
Can't buy it?, build it!
Sid is rarely wrong.
I would say a TC driven and driver replace the clutch and sprocket on one side of the jackshaft and you are good to go. maybe like sid said a washer or two to align them. And the right size belt.
But i think you are right on moving engine over if you remove jack shaft completely. and use the TAV2 30 series kit. that comes with a backplate/jackshaft at the correct distance with belt.
if you search google for torque converter and look at images you will see it done both ways. with the adapter plate (that has built in jackshaft) and with an external jackshaft similar to your go kart.
I'm trying to find one that is like yours with a dead axle... mostly done with live axles.
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=25211 this is like yours but he keeps clutch on his go kart.
I would say a TC driven and driver replace the clutch and sprocket on one side of the jackshaft and you are good to go. maybe like sid said a washer or two to align them. And the right size belt.
But i think you are right on moving engine over if you remove jack shaft completely. and use the TAV2 30 series kit. that comes with a backplate/jackshaft at the correct distance with belt.
if you search google for torque converter and look at images you will see it done both ways. with the adapter plate (that has built in jackshaft) and with an external jackshaft similar to your go kart.
I'm trying to find one that is like yours with a dead axle... mostly done with live axles.
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=25211 this is like yours but he keeps clutch on his go kart.
frankly I cannot see a thing on that midnight pic you've taken
(really.. I mean it's literally just minutes dark outside still noones able to take a pic at daylight...)
Yes I know it's my monitor t
(in fact it's the graphics card not being able to gamma correct anymore)
But still, as if someone called darkness as the new internet picture standard
'Nough rant.
It'll be hard (next to impossible really) to move the engine out far enough to line up the TC sprocket with a wheel sprocket on your kart.
Welding will be necessary as far as I can tell from the second pic you posted
Anyways, either keep the original jackshaft then and scrap the backplate,
or just do not install a TC,
by all means.. a TC with a one wheel peel is a bit tricky to set up;
Torque is pointless without grip, and one wheel only has half the grip of two wheels
Those tyres do not provide good contact anyways
(round profile is nicely cushioned but as you can see from the wear pattern, the contact surface is minimal)
I'm not sure such single wheel would be even capable of providing the traction you need.
'sid
(really.. I mean it's literally just minutes dark outside still noones able to take a pic at daylight...)
Yes I know it's my monitor t
(in fact it's the graphics card not being able to gamma correct anymore)
But still, as if someone called darkness as the new internet picture standard
'Nough rant.
It'll be hard (next to impossible really) to move the engine out far enough to line up the TC sprocket with a wheel sprocket on your kart.
Welding will be necessary as far as I can tell from the second pic you posted
Anyways, either keep the original jackshaft then and scrap the backplate,
or just do not install a TC,
by all means.. a TC with a one wheel peel is a bit tricky to set up;
Torque is pointless without grip, and one wheel only has half the grip of two wheels
Those tyres do not provide good contact anyways
(round profile is nicely cushioned but as you can see from the wear pattern, the contact surface is minimal)
I'm not sure such single wheel would be even capable of providing the traction you need.
'sid
mckutzy
Well-known member
So what's the problem with how it is without the TC ???
Not necessarily a proplem, is it?
http://www.mfgsupply.com/gomini/gom...htorq30/gominiclutchtorq30driven/219465a.html
And yes, they make a cheaper chinese clone of that as well ...
So you already have bough a chinese Tav kit, as I'm understanding your persistance in wanting to use it...
too bad
'sid
Thanks for the images.. much better
(well some will moan because of the size... but I don't mind them being big personally)
Ideally you could use the image upload feature of the forum
(attachments.. the paperclip in the editor)
that'd automagically resize all images for everyone's viewing pleasure.
Anyways.
No, you can also use a symmetrical setup, but a series 20 is hard to come by these days (since it's not as good as the series 30) and copies are unlikely to show up (for obvious reasons)
The series 40 is avalable as a chinese copy and just barely more expensive than the series 30 but the driven is one and a half inches bigger in diameter.
It's also not too easy to find a 3/4" driver for a series 40 IIRC.
*shrugs*
But no worries, you can mount the cam facing towards your jackshaftplate w/o any problem if that's what you're wondering about.
here's the driver and driven seperately (same store to save shipping)
MAKE SURE the driver set includes the front spacer (can't tell from the description)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-SERIES-D...ash=item4d3e82a72e:g:ukQAAOSwa-dWo6oN&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GO-KART-MIN...764819?hash=item53f7728bd3:g:J40AAOSwll1WxJaq
Once you have that mounted you can measure the CTC distance and buy the matching belt.
in fact you can measure it now if you like...
(center PTO to center jackshaft is what you want to know)
(haven't found a complete kit with both for a 3/4" driven I'm afraid.. but just search yourself, maybe you got more luck than me)
'sid
(well some will moan because of the size... but I don't mind them being big personally)
Ideally you could use the image upload feature of the forum
(attachments.. the paperclip in the editor
)that'd automagically resize all images for everyone's viewing pleasure.
Anyways.
No, you can also use a symmetrical setup, but a series 20 is hard to come by these days (since it's not as good as the series 30) and copies are unlikely to show up (for obvious reasons)
The series 40 is avalable as a chinese copy and just barely more expensive than the series 30 but the driven is one and a half inches bigger in diameter.
It's also not too easy to find a 3/4" driver for a series 40 IIRC.
*shrugs*
But no worries, you can mount the cam facing towards your jackshaftplate w/o any problem if that's what you're wondering about.
here's the driver and driven seperately (same store to save shipping)
MAKE SURE the driver set includes the front spacer (can't tell from the description)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-SERIES-D...ash=item4d3e82a72e:g:ukQAAOSwa-dWo6oN&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GO-KART-MIN...764819?hash=item53f7728bd3:g:J40AAOSwll1WxJaq
Once you have that mounted you can measure the CTC distance and buy the matching belt.
in fact you can measure it now if you like...
(center PTO to center jackshaft is what you want to know)
(haven't found a complete kit with both for a 3/4" driven I'm afraid.. but just search yourself, maybe you got more luck than me)
'sid
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