Well, I can love things I don't understand very well, like my wife.
LOL.. well said !
Again, nothing wrong, I just preceived your statement differently
A rheostat is essentially the WORST possible solution I'm afraid
while it's certainly feasible to use some kind of potentiometer on a low power signal input (like the throttle usually is)
it's a dumb idea to use such to 'control' any high power device..
and that you really should know as an electrician I'm afraid
A circuit breaker or single blow fuse will not help you much either..
the current WILL be drawn, and there is very little you can do about it.
yes the fuse can protect against high currents and a fast blowing fuse might even be able to fully protect all electronics.
BUT it will just trigger the instant you press on the pedal too hard,
or try to climb a slightly too steep incline...
in fact with a motor/controller combi like yours,
chances are it'll blow just before moving.
since in order to protect it needs to be less tolerant than the electronics it's meant to protect,
and quicker than the weakest internal to blow.
(and that means you need a max50A quick blow 60V fuse..
and that will very likely trigger on any unfiltered commutational spike
from a ~50V 60Amp device)
Using an alternator is doable, also all but trivial.
Usually I'd suggest people getting a controller that is rated for ~20% over the max rating of the motor it's meant to power,
simply because it's worth running a controller in it's comfort zone,
to be prepared for the slightly too aggressive throttle input (pedal to the metal and such)
without risking it boiling it's internals because of some impatient driver.
In your case that'd be the next bigger size (100A constant rating I think)
as a programmable unit in order to dial in the sweet spot for the motor seperately and safely.
You try the exact opposite, which not only isn't a good idea,
it'll eventually cost you MORE than picking the more expensive controller directly.
(since after blowing two or three of the cheap ones, you'll buy it anyways in order to make the kart move
)
And just to have it said.. picking a truely current limiting controller in 50Amps is likely just as expensive as one that's meant to provide 100Amps.. so choose wisely
So, get you meters out,
measure the motors induction and resistance,
calculate the respective current draw,
and then go hunting for a matching controller..
be sure to pick one that's suitable for your actual configuration.
(2 phase, or four.. three in star or delta config etc.etc.)
'sid