Installing a chain guard behind a centrifugal clutch on predator 2

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ezreub

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Hi,

I recently completed my first go-kart with my sons--it took us six weeks, and I learned a lot. But nothing has been so difficult as sorting out how to attach a chain guard. We have a Predator 2 that has four mounting holes in a square around the shaft, but once I've mounted the centrifugal clutch, they're covered, so there's no access (see the first picture below). Since most chain guards cover the mounting bolt for the clutch, that means that I can't put the guard on first (because then I can't put the clutch on) and I can't put the clutch on first (because then I can't access the chain guard bolts.

Picture One: http://i68.tinypic.com/1z4wf46.jpg

There is a chain guard that has a bracket that I could put on first, and then put on the clutch, and then put on the actual chain guard.

This is the chain guard:

https://www.ombwarehouse.com/reproduction-alexander-reynolds-arco-chain-clutch-cover-short.html

The problem with this is that even if I use button head allen bolts with low profiles, they hit the clutch because there's almost no room between the clutch and the engine when I slide the clutch all the way on (see the second photo to see how little space there is between the mounted clutch and the engine). I assume that having the clutch (which I mount with the sprocket side out since that's how I understand it should be mounted) pushed up against those bolts isn't a good idea. So I'm stuck.

Picture 2: http://i68.tinypic.com/2eq5ap1.jpg

My only thought is to a) weld something a guard to the go kart frame and bypass the whole engine mounting issue, or b) to use the bolts that hold the Predator together (see the top two visible bolts on the first picture) and run those through a mounting bracket and then back into the engine but I don't know if that's okay to be messing around with those bolts. It also occurred to me that I could put some kind of spacer between the engine and the clutch, but I don't know if that's a good idea.

Anyway, I figure someone here has dealt with this before and can solve this problem so I can get on to my next project. Please let me know.

Thanks!
 

Kartorbust

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I'd go with option "c" and do option "a" but with bolts or machine screws in the frame instead of welding.
 

mckutzy

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I have/Had the exact same issues with my bike... I mount it Inboard, and have the Back plate outwards But exposed... The edge is covered by about an ~inch... So you leg wont catch...

You should direct upload the pics as alot of us can/wont be able to see those from the now typical hostings...

You don't say what brand or type of clutch you have , so we can assume that it is bidirectional, and can be run in the sprocket inboard orientation. You'll have room then...
 

mrbeggs432

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Cant really see the pics well....arent you supposed to put on the mounting plate first...then the clutch then bold the guard to the plate ????
 

mckutzy

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In this case, above... bolt on first, mount clutch...
This one has no other piece attached.. Just a basic upper guard..
 

ezreub

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Thanks for all the suggestions. I messed around with it for much of the weekend, consulted a friend, and decided to put in a couple of 1/8 inch spacers behind the (still) outward mounting clutch (I don't know that it can be mounted inwards, so I didn't want to try that--it's a 10T 3/4" bore, brand I'm not sure). This gave me enough room to mount a small 16ga plate that I cut out using button top bolts so that there was space between the bolts and the clutch. I then attached the guard to the plate with a couple of hex bolts. That way I can remove the guard easily without having to remove the clutch. Assuming there is now downside to the putting the two 1/8 inch spacers behind the clutch, I think this should work. If I can figure out how to upload a photo directly I will.
 

Karttekk

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Simple install. Leave the clutch intact. Just take out two engine cover bolts, slide the guard behind the clutch, reinstall the bolts & torque.
 
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