Inheirited an ole Manco 2-seater... any do/don'ts?

[Half-breeder]

Last week I was given a go-kart frame from a friend of mine. It's a mid 80's(I think), single drive, scrub brake, 2-seater, no roll bars. It was given to me w/ no motor and no front wheels. The frame is good(no major rust/not bent) and will probably swap out the bench for buckets.

I'm wondering the engine size/necessities I 'should' get to get this thing to do 30-40mph and "able" to climb a 8-12% grade (or 30-45 degree)hill w/out worrying bout it LOL @ me. I found a 7hp (212cc) at Harbor Freight for 120$...just wondering if I should look for something else or if this is a 'good' choice to attain my "wants" from this kart? (link to ad- http://www.harborfreight.com/212-cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epa-69730.html )

Also I was wanting to replace the "scrub" brakes w/ a disk form (if "easily" possible w/ a single drive). I'm not sure the tooth, but the drive sprocket is whatever is stock on this thing.

 

[landuse]

Welcome to the forum.

I think your expectations for that kart are totally unrealistic. The type of hills you are talking......

If you do want offroading capabilities, a TC would be the best for you, but I am not too sure if it will work well with a dead axle. Changing brakes to use disc is also not doable with a dead axle. The only brake solutions you really have are band brakes, drum brakes and scrub brakes. You generally do not have room for anything else.

The 212cc Predator is a good engine, and you won't have any problems with it

Using a centrifugal clutch when offroading is not ideal but can be done. You will have to gear real low though, which means that you might have to use a jackshaft

 

[Half-breeder]

I live in city limits and anyplace I'd drive it would be strictly pavement. The closest this thing'll see as far as "offroad" is the sand/dirt that forms at the bottom of the street.
I wasn't looking to 'go' 30-40mph uphill...just "able" to(w/out having to get off and drag it uphill) just wanting those speeds on 'level' ground (if 'possible'). I live on a hill and my driveway sits at a 40 degree angle. I weigh 140lbs so I'm 'thinking' weight won't be the deciding factor. Friend of mine said to look into a 'moped' engine(for higher rpm's), but like "most" hobby funds... mine is limited(family/bills/Obama tends to limit contributions made to 'that' fund).

As far as my 'brakes' I understand the 'issues' w/ a dead axle, but I had read that someone/somewhere had improvised using the sprocket as the disk plate in their application... was just wondering if it was a 'well-tested' method of disk on dead?

I'm not looking to do anything extravagant to this kart... just reliving childhood days w/ my daughter and maybe achieve a 'goal' or 2 in the "upgrades" dept. in the meantime.

 

[landuse]

As far as my 'brakes' I understand the 'issues' w/ a dead axle, but I had read that someone/somewhere had improvised using the sprocket as the disk plate in their application... was just wondering if it was a 'well-tested' method of disk on dead?

Using the sprocket as your brake caliper can be done, as has been done several times. You will just have to fabricate the bracket that will hold brake, and make sure that the brake is capable of using a caliper that is the same thickness as the sprocket

 

[Half-breeder]

Also was wondering the 'effectiveness' of a "muffler" for said motor(thinking I saw an application to mount one). Old folks gripe when I start up my car ('ricer' exhaust)...just wondering if I'll be "sneaking" drives round the neighborhood...or if Ill be 'free' to roll w/out the glares of old faces cutting me looks as I drive past their house...?(These are the same neighbors that 'like' the fact that I plink turtles out of the pond, w/ my pellet gun...but ask that I use my suppressor/silencer, in doing so...just can't win! Good neighbors though!)

 

[souperman000]

You have two choices realistic choices with your kart. You can either go for the speed and push it up a hill, or go for hill climbing power and cruise slow on the flats.

A third option is the middle ground where you can go relatively fast on the flats and make it halfway up the hill. It all depends on gearing.

The predator may work but I wont be surprised if there are alignment issues. However, you should be able to overcome those relatively easy. Not to discourage you!

 

[Half-breeder]

***UPDATE*** I installed the motor w/ clutch... bypassed the 'saftey feature'(more like annoying feature) of it cutting off during drifts/slides. Found 2 all metal rims/tube/tire/bearings set, for lil less than 75$(35% sale 'this' week on turf wheels) from Northern tool. Aligned the front end. I only opened the throttle halfway(sofar...still breaking it in 'slowly') n she'll do close to 30mph on the flats, as is and lil to no drag goin up hills(pavement). First test run vid after motor install ~~> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=4646607056803&l=484392807417664662

 

[landuse]

Just remember that in the wet, scrub brakes do not work too well

 

[Half-breeder]

***UPDATE*** on my Manco... http://youtu.be/ys_-qd89Ip8

 

[OzFab]

Cool kart, great vid but, we always suggest & recommend wearing a helmet while driving at speed; My daughter wears a helmet while driving her kart at 10mph

 

[Half-breeder]

I removed the ole 'bench' seat n replaced it with one that I put together. Mounting/installing next week after I paint it...

 

[OzFab]

Nice work

 

[landuse]

That is really nice looking

 

[Oxymoron]

The pimp seat sets it off. That's tight, man!

 

[Half-breeder]

"Finally" put a 4" band brake on Lo-T!! I 'fashioned' a 357 magnum, bullet casing into the cable catch for the 'pull' side. The setup seems kinda 'floppy' over all... but it stops really well(going forward)...and it 'does' make the rear-end 'look' more 'beefy'. ONLY issue I have is when Im rolling 'backwards', they wont even slow me down(like I had NO brakes at all). I kept the scrub brakes(cant stand to toss something that works). I adjusted it so the band brakes catch for 'main' stopping, and the scrubs are adjusted further past(foot to floor) incase of 'main' brake failure. My foot doesnt goto the floor...so the band 'IS' tightening around the band, even rolling backwards, enough that it cant go any further, I say this cause the scrub brakes dont make contact w/ the tires still...Im guessing it's the 'design' of the band-brake to not stop in reverse?... kinda the same science as an oil-filter band wrench... none the less I stop going forward w/ brakes, n I guess Ill have to 'Flinstone' brake, going backwards...lol

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Right you are- Band brakes are directional, nothing you've done wrong. The application of scrub brakes as a "backup plan" (pun intended) is indeed a good one.

Getting back to a previous comment about using a sprocket as a brake rotor, I am one such cheapskate. Stops the Green Machine dead on a dime. Let's face it- it's a flat, round plate. Nothing more needed.

 

[Half-breeder]

From the mechanics of the band brake it just seemed logical... but wasnt sure...ty.

I may be thinking of doin that disk idea to the other cart ill be creating for my daughter itll be slower, but itll probably be goin through wetter areas than i take Lo-T and she WILL use the hell outta the brakes then...lol

...and it's NOT "cheapskate"... it's call thrifty or even a degree of "Common sense"... it's there... might as well use it to the fullest potential... hehe

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Thanks- But I am cheap... In my case, it added a degree of simplicity to something that could have proved more difficult. The ride in question features a differential. The factory original sprocket was a bit larger than I wanted, to accomplish the desired gearing. I modified a new, weld-on sprocket to fit the housing, and was left with the old sprocket and no brake rotor. It just made sense to move the original sprocket to the other side of the diff housing and hang a caliper over it.

 

[souperman000]

Thanks- But I am cheap... In my case, it added a degree of simplicity to something that could have proved more difficult. The ride in question features a differential. The factory original sprocket was a bit larger than I wanted, to accomplish the desired gearing. I modified a new, weld-on sprocket to fit the housing, and was left with the old sprocket and no brake rotor. It just made sense to move the original sprocket to the other side of the diff housing and hang a caliper over it.

I can see some possible confusion here.

You used the old sprocket as a standalone rotor. No Chain

I have noticed that when many people ask this question they mean to use the brake caliper on the sprocket along with the chain. Essentially drive and brake are on the same hub. I feel this wouldn't work well because the caliper needs to fit around the chain and there will be grease and other gunk. Would you agree?

 

[mckutzy]

You can use the two together. Typically on the motorcycles that uses these systems. The caliper is mounted in the space not occupied by the chain. They also used sealed chains, to have less or no grease on the rotor; or brake dust in the chain.
Also if this is the primary brakes, a regiment of bolt checking on a regular basis is needed, as there is more than one force acting on this part in several directions.