In need of some clutch help

ShermDog

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Hi all- I’m reaching out because I’m stumped about a clutch replacement. One of our neighbors recently gave my kids a couple of karts that have been sitting in his woods for a few years. They have a lot of rust but we’ve begun the rebuild. On one of the karts I can’t seem to get the clutch off and feel like I’m missing something obvious. I’ve attached a couple of pic. There’s no bolt that is holding it on. The set screw was rusted so I had to drill it out. At this point I feel like the set screw is drilled and the clutch has zero play in it still. Any advice would be appreciated. Pic attached
 

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Hellion

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To second Ezcome Ezgo, he gave you super advice.

Sad about the karts sitting outside, that’s the worst abuse for a kart because they really aren’t waterproof or weather resistant. I suspect the clutch is rust-welded onto the engine shaft. It’s not really welded on in the traditional sense of the word but it can be more or less permanently affixed just like welding (really strong) as that is what rust does.

When something rusts heavily, it creates a layer of iron oxide on the surface of the metal that actually increases the outside diameter of the shaft (and the inside diameter of the clutch bore too). Any gaps that existed between the clutch bore and the shaft are now closed up super super tight.

I advise the puller, a decent ball peen hammer (to try to beat it off the engine although you won’t likely have the right hammer angles), penetrating fluid (rarely works) and your friend “differential heating”. You need to buy a little propane or MAPP gas torch and use it to differentially heat the outside of the clutch bell independently of the engine shaft. The heat will expand the clutch away from the shaft.

Then prepare to repeat the process of dousing the area with penetrating fluid, hammer blows, using the puller, use of colorful metaphors (swearing), flame heat, et cetera, until you can break it free. The clutch will likely be destroyed in the process ….

Tons of YT videos on the subject abound in cyberspace.
 
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ShermDog

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To second Ezcome Ezgo, he gave you super advice.

Sad about the karts sitting outside, that’s the worst abuse for a kart because they really aren’t waterproof or weather resistant. I suspect the clutch is rust-welded onto the engine shaft. It’s not really welded on in the traditional sense of the word but it can be more or less permanently affixed just like welding (really strong) as that is what rust does.

When something rusts heavily, it creates a layer of iron oxide on the surface of the metal that actually increases the outside diameter of the shaft (and the inside diameter of the clutch bore too). Any gaps that existed between the clutch bore and the shaft are now closed up super super tight.

I advise the puller, a decent ball peen hammer (to try to beat it off the engine although you won’t likely have the right hammer angles), penetrating fluid (rarely works) and your friend “differential heating”. You need to buy a little propane or MAPP gas torch and use it to differentially heat the outside of the clutch bell independently of the engine shaft. The heat will expand the clutch away from the shaft.

Then prepare to repeat the process of dousing the area with penetrating fluid, hammer blows, using the puller, use of colorful metaphors (swearing), flame heat, et cetera, until you can break it free. The clutch will likely be destroyed in the process ….

Tons of YT videos on the subject abound in cyberspace.
Thanks for the advice. The blow torch and puller combo worked and I was able to get the clutch off. Thanks for making the time to reply.
 

Hellion

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Excellent. It must not have been that bad. Is the clutch toast? They can be infinitely service and replaced; new clutch "shoes", new springs and so forth.

Suggest putting a light coating of anti-seize on the engine shaft to help prevent this sort of thing in the future.
 

ShermDog

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Or you could just step up to a CVT and be done with the clutches.
Something I’d love to do down the road but right now, the kids just want to ride. Thanks for the advice. We’re just getting started with the rebuild so I’m sure I’ll be needing some more help as go.
 

Hellion

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Or you could just step up to a CVT and be done with the clutches.

Even the exalted CVT is a centrifugal clutch, or part of it is, and the rest a complicated arrangement of belts and gizmos. Oh noes, I gave away the secret! 🤯

It'll all be working fine until the CVT eats a belt and then you're toast or stranded in the boondocks. Best to carry a spare belt (but you forgot to) but a chain could be repaired with a few links (and you can always carry a spare) but chains just have a bad habit of lasting longer...... (maybe).
 

panchothedog

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Hey! You're trying to give torque converters a bad name. 4 karts and1 mini bike. All of them run torque converters. 5 plus years of dragging that stuff and a bunch of Grandkids out to the desert. Two hours from home. The back of my truck has an extra EVERYTHING in it. We've only broken two belts in all that time, and one of them was right here in front of my house. Testing something. My neighbors like to call the police whenever a kart takes a lap or two around the block.
FWIW, it does help if you take the belt guard every once in a while and put an eyeball on it.
 

Hellion

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Do you use genuine Comet belts, good sir?

Do you proofread before you post?

Do you ....
 

panchothedog

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Putting eyeballs on the belt will make them slip. Please don’t do it. Just look at them instead. :roflol:
O K, O K ! Take a peek under the belt guard every once in a while and look at the belt. Something that doesn't get done often enough. You just might prevent yourself from getting stranded.
 
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