Important Info for Max Torque Converters

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jerseyrick1

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Info on Max Torque Converters (Murray Kilowatt)

Hey all!

Here is a note from the owner on Max-Torque Converters. It also covers the proper way to rebuild the driven unit and set the spring pre-load tension.

We only make two styles -- inboard mount and outboard mount on the drivens. All of our units are symmetrical because that makes it fool proof when putting on the belt. BUT as with any company Murray did some part mixing between Max-Torque and Comet and they were wrong when they did it. They mixed a series 30 (asymmetrical) with a series 20. Our unit would be considered a series 20.

The people that handle our parts only want to buy complete units because it is easier and they don't have to go into explanation on how to assemble which isn't their job and most have never tried to assemble a unit be it a Max-Torque or a Comet.

The only unit bought by Murray was an outboard mount driven which means the driven unit must float on the jackshaft to stay aligned with the driver unit fixed on the engine. The driver unit is fixed on the crankshaft which is used for either the inboard or outboard driven unit.

The only difference between and inboard mount (spring is wrapped clockwise ) unit and an outboard mount unit (spring is wrapped counter clockwise)is the direction of the spring. The ends of the spring are directly on top of each other on a outboard mount spring while they are 180 degrees from each other on a inboard mount.

We put a 3/4" shaft through the bore with a key in the shaft so the bottom sheave is fixed in place. We put the spring in hole #2 unless you are in a hilly area then I would put it in 3 or 4 so you are in lower gear longer. Once the leg of the spring is between the two ramps you want to place the ramp onto the shaft with the two flats but don't bush it down just yet to lock it in place. Turn the movable sheave CLOCKWISE UNTIL YOU GET INITIAL TENSION ON THE SPRING. THEN MOVE THE SHEAVE ONE MORE RAMP and now you push the zinc ramp down and replace the flat washer and then put on the snap ring. You will need the extra strong snap ring pliers since the snap ring is double thickness.
Hope that helps.

This was also sent:

The Murray part numbers were used by them on both our parts and on Comets parts. They just gave us P/O's for Drivers and Drivens so we don't have any idea what number they assigned to our part.

Murray was pig headed in the way they put that kart together and didn't take outside advice. The distance between the driver and the driven is bigger then any other kart manufacturer. Comet doesn't make a belt large enough and it was a special that Gates made just for Murray. The belts are as rare as chicken teeth.

The cover guard being so large a t/c unit no one had anything like it to match up. I think your best bet would be to go to a sheet metal fabricator and have him build you something. Our plastic guard will not fit because ours is based on a 6 7/8" center to center and I think Murrays was over 11".


James F. Donovan
Max-Torque, LTD.
2180 Corporate Lane
Naperville, IL 60563
Phone: (630) 369-9600
Fax: (630) 369-9686
Website: www.maxtorque.com
Email: jim@maxtorque.com

That's all I have. :sifone:
 
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