I'm new to this... but having a blast! (backyard "kart")

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fmjnax

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My brother-in-law gave us an old "go kart" yesterday and I need to get it in tip-top shape. I don't see any branding anywhere, but it doesn't quite look home-made. The kart (and I use the term loosely, since I know karting is much larger than just backyard bashing) looks fairly old and well-used. There's a good bit of rust over it, but nothing my grinder, welder, and some paint can't fix. It has a B&S 5.5 OHV on it.

Anyway, it runs fairly well, but it needs some tweaking. For starters, it needs new tires; especially on the drive wheel. It had obviously been overinflated and is worn bald down the middle. All 4 tires are "knobby" tires. Since our yard has a lot of elevation/hills, we need something more along the lines of off-road tires. Are the knobby tires the ones to go with or is there something different/better?

Also, the cent. clutch and brake looks like they need to be replaced in the near future, but for now they are good. The accelerator wire and the spring on the motor also needs to be replaced (I actually broke it tonight in the garage while trying to adjust it, so I'll have to pick one up tomorrow).

My main concern is getting the most of the motor. Like I said, it's an old 5.5hp. I didn't notice any misfiring or sputtering. I haven't pulled the plug yet, but I will do that and tune the carb (plenty of experience in that... I have a boat with an old 70HP that constantly needs carb attentions). I also haven't checked the air filter, but I'm sure that will need a cleaning/replacement. The oil looks good. Oh, the fuel line also has a small leak, but no big deal. I rigged up my phone to it and turned on the GPS and let me son take off. By no means was he running it all-out, but he managed to hit 12MPH. Is this ballpark for the motor or what would be a realistic number that could be seen? Anyway, to the main question: what can I do to bring the engine up to tip-top shape? Would it be beneficial to maybe run some seafoam through it (I do it on our vehicles, the boat, lawnmower, and other equipment)?

Sorry for the semi-long post here. We're excited and love the new play toy! :thumbsup:
 

gvfc2

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yea welcome to the forum. also pics would help for the people that can give advice
 

landuse

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Welcome to the forum. Knobby tires will be fine for your kart. It is only if you are using it exclusivly onroad/tar that it is advisable to get smoother tyres.

Regarding the speed, what we will need from you is the tooth count on the clutch as well as the tooth count on the main axle. We will also need the diameter of your tyres from the ground to the top of the tyre. Do you have a jackshaft?? If yu do, then things are a little different. Have a look at thse links:

Speed calculator
http://www.diygokarts.com/speed-calculator.html
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/gearspeed.html
http://www.csgnetwork.com/kartpotentialspeedcalc.html

Tire, gear ratio, RPM and Speed Formulas
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=9591
http://www.csgnetwork.com/gearratcalc.html
http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearratio.htm

Jackshaft ratio calculator
http://www.fasttrackraceway.com/calc/index.php
http://www.compgoparts.com/TechnicalResources/JackshaftRatioCalculator.asp

Post some pics of your kart and engine thoug. Post some of the brake and clutch as well
 

fmjnax

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Thanks all!

I know it doesn't help much but here is a picture. It's quite late and I am posting from my phone so I will take detailed pictures/measurements tomorrow.

I pulled the air filter and it looks good. The carb looks like it could use a good cleaning. I fixed the accelerator cable by cannabalizing a lawnmower... and it actually was an improvement. The old cable/spring wasnt returning back to idle fully after letting off. Now it snaps right back!

I will go through the links, but what is a jackshaft?
 

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landuse

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I will go through the links, but what is a jackshaft?

Nice kart

A jackshaft is used for compound gearing. They are usually used when space is at a premium. Sprockets can be smaller than if you just have a straight clutch to axel setup. I have included a pic of the one I use on my bike, but doing a search on the site you will find heaps of info about them.
 

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fmjnax

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Ok, I took the time today to do a partial tear-down to see what I've got.

The drive wheel was already off, so first thing was to pull the chain and inspect it (no picture, sorry). The kart had to have been sitting for a while because there were some links seized up and it wasn't looking too pretty. I gave it a soak in some liquid wrench during the teardown/rebuild and afterwards I put it in a container of 40W oil to soak until tomorrow night. By no means am I expecting it to be magically "fixed", but it's gotta be better than it was. A new chain will likely be purchased in the near future.

With the chain off, I counted teeth. 10 on the clutch and 60 on the wheel. Oh, and the tires are 145/70-6, so 6" + 3.99" (70% of 145mm converted to inches plus 6" rim, right?). The motor is an Intek 206 and the best I can find is that it turns 3600 RPM, but I saw some information saying 3800 and 4000. Going with the safe 3600, it would put my speed potential at about 18mph. I guess my son hitting 12mph was probably ballpark.

Anyway, moving on... I pulled the drive gear and took a look at the brake band. The hub on the drive gear looked pretty good. The band itself had a lot of buildup on it. I wiped it down and then shot it with some liquid wrench/wiped it down a few times. There's still some buildup on the band, but it's much better.



I now moved on to the clutch. This thing is rusted up something horrible. I didn't dare try to pull it (I don't own a gear puller) so I'll leave it as-is for now and just put a new one on the top of my shopping list.


Next up was the spark plug. (Actually, first was the air filter. Nothing to report here. It looks normal and fairly clean). The first thing I noticed was the split boot. That will obviously have to be replaced. I pulled the plug and was quite surprised with what I saw. The plug (a Champion) looks like the engine has been running at normal conditions. No carbon deposits, no fouling, no damage. I couldn't find my gap tool, but judging by the look of the plug, I don't need to worry about it.



With the plug out, I pulled the exhaust (again, rusted to high heaven) and then the valve cover. Nothing to report here. It looked great! Oh yeah, the vac line was also flawless. On the first picture below, you can see the barb fitting on the carb. This is where my fuel leak is at. I'm not sure if it's from the hose (the hose and clamp look good) or from this fitting itself. I don't know if this is a serviceable part or how I can stop the leak, but I'll have to tackle that later.



Finally, I pulled the carb. It actually was cleaner than I thought. I did buy some gaskets knowing that they would probably need to be replaced (experience with my boat has taught me well, and it ended up being a good call!).



With everything off, I got out the led light and took a peek inside the motor. Not much carbon buildup and I would actually call it quite normal, if not better than normal. I couldn't get a good shot with the camera, though.

So that is my high-level tear-down and investigation. Yes, there is a bit more rust than I would like to see, but it looks like routine engine maintenance was kept up with (or maybe the engine isn't as old as it looks). Overall, it doesn't look like I'll have too much work bringing the engine up to snuff. A chain and clutch appear to be the only things that will be needed in the near future (along with the tires, of course). I'll gradually tear down the chassis and grind/weld/fix/paint it, but that's mainly just cosmetic.

So what do ya'll think? Oh, and I'm open to any performance increase ideas that won't break the bank. Just something to give a bit more Oomph in the backyard. :)
 

landuse

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First off, let me post some links to some Briggs modifications you can do:
Briggs modifications
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2776
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1450
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1454
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1583

and governor removal....
Briggs Governor removal
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7036
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1130&highlight=ironman

Its good news that your engine is not in too bad of a condition. Sometimes they can get pretty nasty standing outside.

Regarding the brake band, don't lubricate the bad at all, cos then it won't work as well as it should. As long as you wiped it down really well though it should be good.

You have a 6:1 ratio on your kart. That is about standard for those size wheels. You could probably go a little bit bigger to 12" and still be OK, but the best is probably just to use the same size. Anything bigget than 12" and you are going to start frying your clutch.

Regarding your clutch, you should see if you can get it off without a puller. Sometimes they look worse than what they are. If you get it off it has saved you the expense of a puller. I would probably get a new clutch like you have said.

I am not too sure about the leak on your carb, but someone else should give you advice there. Russ is brilliant with small engines.
 

fmjnax

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Well, today was the day we gave the gokart another shot! The chain had been soaking in the 40w oil for over 48 hours (I would go out and move the links and rotate it every 12 hours or so) and it rejuvenated the chain nicely! No more seized links and no more sprocket jumping!

I know I didn't do anything other than clean up the carb and install a new throttle cable, but man what a difference! The throttle now springs back when you let off the gas (as opposed to it being stuck half open when you let off the pedal) and it have a full range of throttle settings instead of "go" and "don't go".

My fat 260lb butt was able to push the kart up to 15mph (and with the calculator saying we should hit 18mph, that's pretty darn close!) and now we can't keep traction to the drive wheel (and I'm not entirely saying that in a bad tone!). I deflated the rear wheels a bit to help, but the thing still wants to slip when you punch it; even at 10+ mph.

I may need to try and rework the wheel geometry to try and get a bit better in the steering department, but it's not bad at all. Overall, I think the engine is firing at optimum performance so it's time to start digging through the links that landuse provided and see if I can edge a bit more out of it. I think 20-25mph is PLENTY for running around the 2 acres we have here.
 

fmjnax

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I'm thinking I want to pull the governor. What sort of RPM's would the engine pull without it. Also, I see that getting the billet rod is highly recommended when pulling the governor. Realistically, what is the chance of engine damage if I pulled it without replacing the rod (keeping in mind that we are running this this hard, WOT up hills, and putting a huge load on it.
 

fowler

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the engine gets 5k then the valve springs need stiffening

u can replace parts with stronger ones
it wouldnt be a bad idea put not really nesercery if u keep it below 5000rpm

how long would u stay in the high rpm?
id say long fast runs would do the damage not the load as u are not changeing the power being produced
 

r_chez_08

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I agree with fowler. If you want to go over 5.5k I would recommend a billet rod and flywheel. Under that and you should be safe.
 

r_chez_08

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just ask wether the flywheel will explode
can unleash a **** storm of an argument every time:roflol:

Lol so true. However, let's make this clear:
Hundreds of kart racers run a stock chinese rod and flywheel at 5800rpm. There have been cases of snapped rods and fragmented flywheels. Some may have gone at 5800rpm, others at only 4000. There is no conclusive evidence, however, one thing is apparent:
An incorrecty treated rod or flywheel is much more likely to break.

However billet rods have also been known to break.

I think we need to accept thar karting has an element of danger. However, the chances of a crucial structural weld breaking are probably much higher than the engine blowing up at 5k.

Wow. Didn't mean to go on, but I thought I would make some things apparent.
 

Doc Sprocket

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the tires are 145/70-6, so 6" + 3.99" (70% of 145mm converted to inches plus 6" rim, right?).

Sorry I missed this the first time through. Overall diameter for these tires works out to 14". When converting from metric, keep in mind the 3.99" is the section height- ONE section height. To figure out overall diameter, you need to double that. So, 3.99+3.99+6=14".
 
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