Ignition Switch Puzzle

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XD-9Guy

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I have Red, Black and Yellow with a Red Stripe that come to the ignition, I've stared at the wiring diagram and I am not comprehending. The new ignition posts are numbered 1, 2 & 3 and I don't know which wire aligns with which post. Does anyone here happen to know?
 

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XD-9Guy

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Whitetrashrocker

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Do you have a multi meter? Put it on ohms/continuity.
Check which terminals connect in which position.

I bet if you look hard there might be terminal indicator marks.
 

XD-9Guy

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I do have a multimeter, but that DIY kindergarten that you mentioned... talk to me like I am in DIY Pre-K and when it comes to wiring I'm probably not even a good Pre-K student, I am more like the kid that eats crayons.

I have inspected it very closely and aside from the posts numbered 1-3, the only other mark is a "423" stamped into the plastic - it looks to be a part number.

---------- Post added at 03:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:35 PM ----------

Oh wait, I get what you are saying. I will go grab the multimeter and check that out - that will tell what 1, 2 & 3 do.

Of course that's half the issue right? Then I need to know what each wire does so I know which one to connected to each post.

---------- Post added at 04:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:38 PM ----------

In key position 1 (Key inserted, no turn) there is no continuity amongst the 3 terminals. Position 2 (one click to the right) creates continuity between terminals 1 & 2. Position 3 (The spring loaded or starting position) creates continuity between all 3 terminals.
 

Whitetrashrocker

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Great.
On the diagram in the lower right there is a box labeled key switch. It represents the key positions. Linked dots mean continuity. Match the color to the terminal.
In this case (only because of how the switch works)black and red can be interchanged. And the odd color runs to the starter solonoid.
The momentary part of the switch sends power to the starter, then opens the cuircit when you let off.

Put your meter on DC volts and the red wire should have 12v. Red probe on wire and black probe to the frame(where there's no paint) or to the negative side of the battery.

Make sense?
 

XD-9Guy

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Indeed it does, thanks for your help. I don't know if I will get an opportunity to do it tonight, so hopefully I can get it squared away tomorrow.

I appreciate you breaking it down for me.
 

itsid

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even simpler...

test ONLY the switch, no battery (no chance to short circuit anything) no nothing..

attach either one of the probes to either of the terminals (just take notes)
and the other one to one of the two remaining..
go to continuity test mode.
no turn the switch (and take your notes)

1 & 2 [key pos 0,1,2]
1 & 3 [key pos 0,1,2]
2 & 3 [key pos 0,1,2]

Now in keypos 0 NONE should be connected internally [no beep whatsoever]
in keypos 1 you should hear a beeping sound of the multimeter (in continuity mode)
with exactly one pair (two) terminals (likely 1 & 2) but not in 1&3 or 2&3 (or whatever pair it happens to be)
and in the third key position you should find that all three terminals are in fact connected (beeps no matter what pair you pick to test)

Got that?
Nice.. now look at your diagram again.. see the connecting lines in the box (according to key position 0,1 and two starting from the bottom) ?

the horizontal lines marks the connected terminals.

all you have to do is follow your notes to find which one is which now :D
1&2 beep in key pos 1; but 2&3 do not, then 1 is red, 2 is black and 3 yellow/red
2&3 beep in key pos 1; but 1&3 do not, then 2 is red, 3 is black and 1 will be yellow/red
1&3 beep in key pos 1; but 1&2 do not, well 3 is red, 1 is black and 2 will be yellow/red

and the best part of it: if you swap red and black by accident nothing happens;
only check if any of the terminals are actually continuing to the switch case;
and if so (can only be one terminal) that MUST BE BLACK.

easy huh?

'sid
 
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