Identy crisis

NO1PITA

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Just got into go karts 2 years ago as a part time hobby when I retired to Missouri.
Bought several that needed work.
The one I'm having a problem with is a Manco .
It came with 5" wheels & slicks, don't know if they were original on this cart or not.
It has a 5/8" live axle but the drive hub ID was 1 1/4 and had a, what I would call, a reducer to take the ID down to from 1 1/4 to 5/8 to fit the 5/8 axle.
I've searched the web and can't find anything on it or about it.
BMI , Gopowersports and others were contacted & said they don't have anything like that.
Any help identifying this thing would definitely be helpful
 

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Denny

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If it had a 5/8” axle in it it most certainly did not come from the factory that way! Those tires and rims are not factory either.
 

madprofessor

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I recognize that kind of shaft adapter from the HVACR industry, and I assure you I never used one to make the wrong motor fit an application. Don't like 'em, nope, nah sir, ain't havin' it! I would reengineer the whole setup before doing that, change fan pitch and wing number, replace sheaves, increase horsepower, whatever, but it would work as well or likely better than factory. And it would not have any shaft adapters hiding under hubs.
Guess I'm saying you inherited a project that was changed up by a previous owner with whatever they could find to make it go. Hoping you're the retired type who's seen too many abortions on wheels and want to do it right.
1-1/4" Solid Aluminum Axle| 601836 | BMI Karts And Parts
1 1/4" Tubular Steel Axle (3/16" Wall) | 6024** | WMS Products AS.190-100 | BMI Karts And Parts
 

NO1PITA

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You're right, I've seen a lot of abortions on a lot of things, makes things even harder to fix right
Mama says I'm sort of a perfectionist when it comes to making or fixing things
 

NO1PITA

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Thought I'd take some pics of what I've got.
First 2 pics are what I took off cart.
The insert is 1 1/4 OD x 5/8" ID and made of steel
I noticed when I took these pics a short while ago that the insert for the other wheel was aluminum looked to be 3/4" id & appeared to be a little wallowed out.
As was noted by Madprofessor evidently someone did a messed up job of fixing this thing.

Did some more searching the 5/8 axle did come from the factory that way.

5/8" Diameter Manco Axle 37"​

1646596372133.png
 

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NO1PITA

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Those are 1" bore rear hubs I need 5/8"
But I do thank you for your response.

I think I'm going to save myself a headache and cut the existing axle housing off the cart & install a 1 1/4" axle & pillow blocks.
That way I can use the existing wheels, hubs, & tires
I had put new 5/8" bore brake, sprocket, & axle on the cart so I hate to just set it aside, but maybe I can use it on something else.

I want to thank all of you for the input, I really appreciate it
THANK YOU
 

madprofessor

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Hey MWKarter, I've just starred that ebay page to my Favorites menu for future reference. I've never made the effort to learn much about metric chassis parts, but need to know the stuff, love learning stuff. Reading the seller's description at the bottom was very enlightening info-wise, and made the seller sound both knowledgeable and honest.
NO1PITA, kudos on the bearing choice, I'm a strong believer in the use of cast iron pillow blocks on karts over any other type, won't use anything else. My current kart has (4) 1" PB's, and (8) 3/4" PB's.
One note on axle bearings..............Just because the Manco may have come with only 2 of them, and the PB's on ebay can be found often in pairs, doesn't mean you have to use only 2. I bought my 1" in groups of 4, and my 3/4" in groups of 4 twice. They're really inexpensive, and having an extra bearing beside a drive sprocket or a brake disc eliminates the flex that you can get there under load with only a pair of bearings. No flex also means the wheels will track flat. When it comes to keeping the wheels, bearings, sprockets, etc. in one place on the axle, I'm also a strong believer in the double-split locking collars. Double-split, not just "split". 2 pieces that slap together with bolts into themselves, no setscrews scarring or slipping an axle. Slaps on in 30 seconds without sliding anything on/off ends of axle, slap on anywhere, on both sides of components if possible.
1-1/4" Bore ZINC PLATED double Split (10 PCS) CLAMPING SHAFT COLLARS | eBay
(10) 1-1/4" DOUBLE SPLIT STEEL NEW CLAMPING SHAFT COLLAR BLACK OXIDE SC125D | eBay
 

NO1PITA

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BTW Madproffessor
In case you were wondering why I decided on a 3/4" axle instead of a 1" one.
With a 6hp engine I believe a 1" axle would be over kill, I could be wrong though.
And I'm trying to keep cost down so when I sell this one & hopefully recoup some money to put into my other kart projects
Another reason for 3/4" is I have some riding mower wheels & tires in great condition and most of them have a 3/4" dia bore & should fit the kart nicely, I HOPE
At 74 years old in good health & shape, I think I might have kind of over done the acquisition of go karts, at least wifey thinks I have
I have lots of ideas
 

NO1PITA

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Ones I put on back burner for warmer weather
Others include a yerf dog & 2 single seat karts.
As I said I think I MIGHT have over done my collection
OH WELL, I'll get to them one of these days
 

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madprofessor

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NO1P, I'd rather have extra karts around than my current status of only having room for one at a time. There's opportunity there to borrow from Peter to bribe Paul across the karts. So what if they don't all get individual focus, there's at least the chance of them all contributing something toward a conglomerate finished product.
 

Denny

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You can get a 1” axle with 3/4” step down ends for just the purpose you state. Just make sure to use lots of anti-seize. It’s never a foolish idea to use a 1” axle.
 

madprofessor

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It’s never a foolish idea to use a 1” axle.
I must agree with Denny on 1" axles. The 3/4" stepdown ends is something I wasn't remembering about where your 3/4" wheels are concerned, a solid thought, it's not like a 3/4" axle's going to have any more threads on it than the 3/4" stepdown section.
Checking BMI site, the 1" axle was only $7 more than the 3/4" axle, and their cheaper sprocket hubs actually were $2 more expensive for both 3/4" and 5/8" than for their 1" hubs.
Jeremywell's pricing on ebay for pillow block bearings was only $1.35 more each for 1" than for 3/4" (sold as pairs of 2).
Really not much money to be saved right off the bat by going smaller, and I've seen enough bowlegged karts due to warped (bent) axles to know the final cost could be much higher after fixing a problem than to have prevented it in the first place.
Yes, Virginia, there is a tightwad/cheapskate/penny-pincher/old miser living in Jacksonville, FL...............bah, humbug.
 

NO1PITA

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Madprofessor & Denny, I thank you gentlemen for the input.
You have me thinking of the 1" axle, a little more $, and not having to worry about a warped or broken axle.
And perusing the web, I've noticed there are a whole lot more 1" axles & kits than anything else.
I think I'll go axle shopping today on line, summer will be here before long ( I HOPE ) so I better get motivating
 

Budget GoKart

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that 3/4 axle is perfect for that kart tons better then factory mower wheels work perfect my buddy had one and he scabbed together a one wheel peel with booger welds and metal he found at the dump on the back of one of them manco interceptors
 

NO1PITA

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that 3/4 axle is perfect for that kart tons better then factory mower wheels work perfect my buddy had one and he scabbed together a one wheel peel with booger welds and metal he found at the dump on the back of one of them manco interceptors
Thank you for the reply, I went for the 3/4 axle because I already had some 3/4" parts to work with & mainly for the Riding mower wheels I have. Since I moved to MO I started playing with riding mowers, bought, fixed, sold, &salvaged parts of ones not worth fixing.
Not all that interested in mowers, but able to put back some money for go karts
Now I have an assortment of engines, wheels & tires, and other stuff I can use on go karts.
Now all I need is the energy to do what I want to do
 
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