Identify this TC

[Gokarter929]

Hello,

Wondering if anyone can tell me what I have here. The TC seems pretty old. Is it a 20 or 30 series? Who is best to buy a new one or parts from? Thanks.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Looks like a 30 series but I may be wrong.
But I do know that with a little love it can be brought back to life. No need to buy a new one. They are pretty darn durable.
Looks like you need some time to disassemble every thing and take the rust off. A little lube when putting it back together.
Your carb will be the the biggest pain after sitting like that. But the rest should spit shine right up.

 

[Gokarter929]

Looks like a 30 series but I may be wrong.
But I do know that with a little love it can be brought back to life. No need to buy a new one. They are pretty darn durable.
Looks like you need some time to disassemble every thing and take the rust off. A little lube when putting it back together.
Your carb will be the the biggest pain after sitting like that. But the rest should spit shine right up.

Thanks, I put a new factory carb on with the choke. I need a new outer cover on the clutch, the hole is supposed to be oval and line up with the notch but it's severely rounded out now.

 

[panchothedog]

Looks like the belt is cut on a angle towards the outside. That would make it a
30 series.

 

[Denny]

If the belt is symmetrical it is a 20 series. If it is asymmetrical then it is a 30 series.

 

[FlyFrog]

thats a early 2000s Tecumseh, they are durable as all get out, i have 2 that have been just absolutley abused, one ran without a filter before we got it and the whole time we have had it (at least 8 years) it was ran on dusty stone roads, mud pits, dusty feilds and al that, and the other one ran low on oil for a year or more for many hours and ran fine up until a mouse nested by the coil chewing wires and corroding everything, ever need help with that engine lmk ive done plenty of work to them

 

[Gokarter929]

thats a early 2000s Tecumseh, they are durable as all get out, i have 2 that have been just absolutley abused, one ran without a filter before we got it and the whole time we have had it (at least 8 years) it was ran on dusty stone roads, mud pits, dusty feilds and al that, and the other one ran low on oil for a year or more for many hours and ran fine up until a mouse nested by the coil chewing wires and corroding everything, ever need help with that engine lmk ive done plenty of work to them

Youre right The engine is an OHH65 6.5hp Tecumseh. It actually runs great! I put an oem carb on it with the choke for the winter here in NY.

 

[madprofessor]

Look at the belts cross-sections at the top of the attached page to be absolutely certain of what you have. You'll see that the 20 series symmetrical belt Denny mentioned should have both sides angled at a matching 15 degrees each, and the asymmetrical should have one side at 18 degrees while the other side should be 2.5 degrees, basically vertical.
At least that's how either should have been before getting worn.
Be sure to check your driver/clutch at the same time, as folks have been known to put on wildly incorrect belts. A 20 series symmetrical driver would have matched 15 degree halves, while a 30 series asymmetrical would have an 18 degree outer half, and a 2.5 degree (basically vertical) inner half. Read all the text at the top of that page while you're at it, and then scroll down to the bottom and read all of that text. You'll come away smarter by far and glad that you took the time.

 

[JimD]

It is a Max-Torque , symmetric system and is correctly mounted "OUTBOARD but it should have some float on the jackshaft to stay aligned with the driver unit on the engine. The jackshaft should only be coated with a dry molylube , never oil or grease because they will stick to the shaft and prevent the 3/8 to 1/2" float needed.

 

[Snaker]

It is a Max-Torque , symmetric system and is correctly mounted "OUTBOARD but it should have some float on the jackshaft to stay aligned with the driver unit on the engine. The jackshaft should only be coated with a dry molylube , never oil or grease because they will stick to the shaft and prevent the 3/8 to 1/2" float needed.

"Correctly mounted" is debatable in the cart world, because folks are rigging things up in all kinds of crazy ways.
As is, its counter to the designers intentions, if it is indeed a symmetrical system.
That is obviously why they designed the asymmetrical style, a compromise to allow for the backwards setups.
I notice the outboard mount label on the driven pulley, but that was likely placed by some reseller, probably referencing the wind of the spring they installed.
And the label doesn't make mention of which way the drive pulley is installed.
One of the confusing parts of this is that many of the resellers are essentially legitimizing these backward setups.
But seems like a lot of people go with it and have good results, or convince themselves that they are having good results.

 

[Denny]

Nope, he’s right it is a 20 series and it is mounted correctly. Max-Torque only makes a 20 series CVT and it requires a jack shaft.

 

[JimD]

Snaker -- since I am the owner of Max-Torque and WE put the label on the driven unit which tells the direction it has to be mounted the majority of the time I can identify when it is done correctly. A series 20 normally should be mounted in the opposite direction so the driver and the driven go in unison but several of the kart manufacturers wanted to mount it the same way they had mounted the series 30. We in turn only made one size driven unit and that was the 7" because we made it for go karts, not mini-bikes.