Ideas for DIY makeshift 1 1/4" axle

MTScott

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I know, you should just buy one, and I am... going to a chromoly heavy wall tube axle....

...but for now, I've got a broken 1.25" solid aluminum axle. Snapped off completely right a the bearing. Never again... chromoly every time going forward. To be fair, the design should have had the bearings closer to the wheel, but still.... quads tend to run much more length out to the wheels.

It happened last night. The trouble is, my boy has a couple friends coming over this weekend, and the whole weekend was planned around them ripping around on go karts, so he is really disappointed about it.... and well, that's life, so it is okay for him to learn that. Also, it is okay for him to learn to pull your boot straps up and figure **** out if you want it bad enough.... So I'm sitting at my office brainstorming on ways to come up with a temporary axle with the limited supplies around here. I can get the chromoly axle here in a couple weeks, but that doesn't help me right now.

I thought about trying to weld it, but I don't have the rig. A buddy of mine might have the right welder, but I've never welded aluminum, neither has he, and what are the chances we'd get it reasonably straight and strong enough.

So, my next idea - buy the thickest wall length of 1.25" welded steel tube at the local pacific steel.... it is all they really have on hand. They don't keep DOM or aluminum in stock. Maybe I could try to telescope 1" tube inside, or go with a solid piece of 1.25" round bar (HEAVY). Then grind out the key slot and tack some key stock in place for the accessories

Ideas? We're saving a boys dream fun weekend here... this isn't a permanent solution, just one good enough for a weekend.
 

Bansil

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Drill and tap both pcs say 3/4-10 or 16, put a heavy chamfer on them, screw together with a steel stud (cut off bolt say 3 inches long), tighten and then weld around that...should work for a weekend.

No welder? then do the above and then drill through 4 places (2 on each side 90* to each other) through the aluminum and the steel all thread. Use grade 8 nuts and bolts to hold it together so it cant loosen up.

Make sense?
 

MTScott

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Drill and tap both pcs say 3/4-10 or 16, put a heavy chamfer on them, screw together with a steel stud (cut off bolt say 3 inches long), tighten and then weld around that...should work for a weekend.

No welder? then do the above and then drill through 4 places (2 on each side 90* to each other) through the aluminum and the steel all thread. Use grade 8 nuts and bolts to hold it together so it cant loosen up.

Make sense?

That could work... id have to figure out how to drill it perfectly center, and straight, but maybe
 

Bansil

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That could work... id have to figure out how to drill it perfectly center, and straight, but maybe
Doesn't have to be straight!
Loktite the all thread both sides, screw together with pipe wrenches, only thing nuts and bolts are doing is keeping it from unscrewing, as long as you captcher both the aluminum and steel bolt, it can't unscrew, 2 per side spreads the load if you aren't on center.
Say 3/8-16, normal drill clearance would be .406...that's sloppy for this, 3/8 bolt is .375 diameter so grab a drill bit a little bigger say a W or 25/64. W would be better because bolt can only move about .008, less shear force at .386

So it can only rotate about 2 pcs of paper thick...that is not by hand of course, 3/8 drill would be my choice...your not drilling a .375 hole by hand but it should be tighter than a W


Eta...does the @ command work?
@MTScott
 
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