I thought I was done.... Yerf Dog

[Sir Cartzalot]

I thought I was almost done on this restoration, but I noticed the hanger bolt looked bent.. Sure enough the metal for the axle hanger is bent and possibly that grade 8 bolt. This was only after maybe an hour of riding and nothing hard mostly on the street in the neighborhood. I believe the band slid down the bolt and was touching the drum and heat transferred from the bolt to the hanger and got soft and warped etc. It's frustrating I tried to replicate the way it came from the factory as well as I spent countless hours researching how others done their brake band. Does anyone have any recommendations on hydraulic or mechanical brakes? I'll have to weld a hanger I assume.

 

[Denny]

The drum and band should be closer to the bearing mount.

 

[Sir Cartzalot]

The drum and band should be closer to the bearing mount.

I tried finding the right size flange bolt to mount it closer, but now I can't remember why I was having problems with that. I guess I could order a new band and try mounting it closer.

 

[Hellion]

I agree with Denny. Also it is customary that the band mounting pegs are welded on and not bolted on, at least in my meagre experience. Just an observation, but I wouldn’t want the peg to unscrew itself and start to wobble. Things have a tendency to rattle loose on these karts, they shake, rattle and roll quite a bit.

 

[Hellion]

I believe the band slid down the bolt and was touching the drum and heat transferred from the bolt to the hanger and got soft and warped etc

Doubtful. For that kind of heat you’d have to ride the brake for 100 miles straight. Then you’d see tell-tale heat discoloration on the components.

You need to ensure the brake rod is pulling the band in a straight line from the pedal’s axis of operation, or it will walk itself off the drum. FYI.

 

[Sir Cartzalot]

I agree with Denny. Also it is customary that the band mounting pegs are welded on and not bolted on, at least in my meagre experience. Just an observation, but I wouldn’t want the peg to unscrew itself and start to wobble. Things have a tendency to rattle loose on these karts, they shake, rattle and roll quite a bit.

I was afraid of that as well I had that standard nut on the inside and on the other side I had a waser, lock washer, and a locking nut all done with Red locktite lol it was fun getting it off. Do most people just weld a bolt on there?

 

[Sir Cartzalot]

Doubtful. For that kind of heat you’d have to ride the brake for 100 miles straight. Then you’d see tell-tale heat discoloration on the components.

You need to ensure the brake rod is pulling the band in a straight line from the pedal’s axis of operation, or it will walk itself off the drum. FYI.

Yeah I was just messing with it and that rod is bent, but its so long it's hard to tell where the bend is. I think I'm gonna cut like a foot off and bend it at the end and drill a hole like it is not and then have like 10" of brake line going to the band etc.

 

[Denny]

Don’t cut the rod!!! It’s the strongest and best way to actuate the band.

 

[Sir Cartzalot]

I was looking at it and that's why I didn't mount the drum/hub closer to the bearing. The rod is bent and wants to pull the band towards the tire etc. I guess I'll try to bend it so it doesn't pull the band.

 

[Denny]

I was looking at it and that's why I didn't mount the drum/hub closer to the bearing. The rod is bent and wants to pull the band towards the tire etc. I guess I'll try to bend it so it doesn't pull the band.

That’s the smart move.

 

[Master Hack]

Our engineering staff is correct on the bolt.
Commonly referred to a bolt stickey outie or cantalever. The band is exerting too much leverage on the bolt. Shorten that stickie outie and beef up the material the bolt goes through and use a SHCS. OR support the bolt on both ends for zero sticky outie.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

You can reverse the bolts holding the bearing too, to get more clearance, Clarence.

 

[Sir Cartzalot]

Our engineering staff is correct on the bolt.
Commonly referred to a bolt stickey outie or cantalever. The band is exerting too much leverage on the bolt. Shorten that stickeh outie and beef up the material the bolt goes through and use a SHCS. OR support the bolt on both ends for zero sticky outie.

SHCS?

 

[Sir Cartzalot]

You can reverse the bolts holding the bearing too, to get more clearance, Clarence.

Good idea, but the drum can go all the way to the hanger.

 

[Master Hack]

SHCS?

Socket head cap screw. Mo bedder than gr8 bolt. Basically a grade 10.5 bolt.

 

[Master Hack]

tried finding the right size flange bolt t

Flange bolt? Or a partial threaded bolt.
Flanbe bolt looks like it has a washer under the head.
I think you mean partial threaded bolt? Has a smooth unthreaded part of the shank.
If thats what ya mean (gooder choice) that smooth section is a % of the shank. Get a longer bolt and cut it off.

Fully Thread and Partially Thread Bolts and Screws: What's the Difference?

Fully threaded bolts and screws have threads running along the entire length of the shank, while partially threaded bolts have a smooth, called the shank, unthreaded section under the head and threads only on the rest of the shank.

hrfastener.com

Do most people just weld a bolt on there

We all have done it, but welding bolts is not the best aproach. Bolts generally have plating on'em and welding releases toxic fumes. Welding weakens the bolt. Anytime you rely on a single point attachment for a high stress part, like yours the results will be like yours.

 

[Hellion]

I thought I was almost done...

Well, you were done but you broke it. You should have put it up for sale immediately and made big bucks! Let whatever issues it has become someone else's problem [no refunds!]. Then drag home another derelict kart and refurbish it.

 

[Master Hack]

ou should have put it up for sale immediately and made big bucks

Then some azzhole comes along and overly complcates the project with a bunch of technical shyt. Its just bolts who cares?....
Sorry ya asked yet? I gots more....