I need a new Carburetor ( Robin Subaru 6.5hp)

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Doc Sprocket

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That reminds me- my coffee cup is disturbingly empty...

A heavier oil is thicker and flows less freely. In colder weather, it can make an engine harder to start. At the same time, it may have a harder time penetrating into the smaller holes and galleries, and may even be too thick to flow between tight tolerance parts. Best to stay within spec.
 

jamyers

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Best to stick to the manufacturer's specs and/or use a multi-weight oil, like 5W-30. Reason is, when the oil is 'cold' (below operating temp) it flows like a 5W, but once up to operating temp it flows like a 30W. Best of both worlds!

I'm very interested in following your progress on this carb, as I have a Subaru/Robin of unknown origins (also missing its carb) sitting on my shop floor taking up space. I may well yank it's governor and follow your lead...

My coffee cup is disturbingly low as well, must remedy that situation.
 

Najuto9tail

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Best to stick to the manufacturer's specs and/or use a multi-weight oil, like 5W-30. Reason is, when the oil is 'cold' (below operating temp) it flows like a 5W, but once up to operating temp it flows like a 30W. Best of both worlds!

I'm very interested in following your progress on this carb, as I have a Subaru/Robin of unknown origins (also missing its carb) sitting on my shop floor taking up space. I may well yank it's governor and follow your lead...

My coffee cup is disturbingly low as well, must remedy that situation.

Yeah I will let you know when I get it. :cornut:
The governor was really easy to remove, I thought it was dificult,it came out by pulling it with some pliers, the only thing that gave me problems was that the screws on the engine block cover were so tight that I broke 2 wrenchs and ended up using an adjustable wrench big and strong enough and force the wrench to move with a pipe LOL.
If the carb works, I will move on into adapting a better exhaust to the motor.
Other thing I will need is some good brakes for the power the engine will gain with the mods... the current brakes are piece of junk may need to change them.
 

Najuto9tail

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this is the Carb Spacer I am useing with my mikuni 22mm on my ex21 http://store.kartoramainc.com/catalog/product/0066aaaf2f1147cd8884d02ad8b8331f
something like that I think I will need but 19mm. :thumbsup:

Hey guys could someone help me out to find a 19mm-20mm; bolt space 42mm= 1 5/8 manifold.
Like this one:
 

Najuto9tail

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I went today to a lot of places where they sell lawnmowers and small engine parts and none seems to have what I need. Could someone help me? Thanks
 

mckutzy

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I'm still thinking why bother with this motor, if it is giving you all these problems.
You said that a replacement carb is about $100. That will buy a new motor. Keep the old one, but use the new one till you decide what next to do with it.
 

Najuto9tail

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I already bought a carb for $22 that fits the engine but it may need a manifold so it could fit properly. Also the engine is like new... why get an other when I already have a great engine. I removed the governor, I will get the carb tomorrow on the mail. I will see if the manifold is necessary or not.
 

jamyers

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Take a look at this thread from over at 4-cycle karting, apparently the Briggs Animal manifold/spacer (sams as slipknot linked to above) works fine on a Robin.

3mm isn't that critical, imho. If you're worried about it, take a file and do a "gasket-match" job on the head to match the manifold. At the carb end, having a slight lip where the smaller carb hooks to the larger manifold can actually work to your advantage in terms of anti-reversion.
 

Najuto9tail

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Take a look at this thread from over at 4-cycle karting, apparently the Briggs Animal manifold/spacer (sams as slipknot linked to above) works fine on a Robin.

3mm isn't that critical, imho. If you're worried about it, take a file and do a "gasket-match" job on the head to match the manifold. At the carb end, having a slight lip where the smaller carb hooks to the larger manifold can actually work to your advantage in terms of anti-reversion.
Just like you said the original carb is 20mm inside and on bolts 42mm. Thanks
:cheers2:

And that thread you showed me I have seen it before, but I looked for the manifold which bolt holes measure 42mm and not 48mm :/
 

Najuto9tail

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Any reason not to enlarge the bolt holes 3mm each?

I got the carb today, will not work on it because have a Migraine that have me crazy... It is almost as big as the original... the shut off valve can be rotated to the other side so I will not have to use a manifold. I bought 2 feet of fuel line, screws for the carb and two spark plugs. Tomorrow I will mount it. I think I may need to fold a little the flywheel cover at the side where the carb will be mounted or cut with the dremel a little piece of it... But will not have to use a manifold. I will use the original robin subaru which is a piece of plastic. I will post pictures tomorrow.

The carb is japan made, looks like a high quality carb.

Edit- I took my pills and feel much better. I wonder what about spark plugs ? Do they really make a change on engine performance? I have always used NGK B9HS what about using NGK BR6HIX Iridium? Will it help improve something? This cost more than the b9hs...
 

Najuto9tail

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I managed to install the carb without problems... The only problem I had is that the carb came taped on the screw holes so I used a drill to remove it... had to made a little cut on the carb on the side... remove the choke hand (not needed) rotate the fuel shutoff valve to the other side. Had to cut the screws with a dremel where it ataches to the motor, used original spacer from robin subaru. I still have not tried to turn it on, or anything as it started to rain and had to leave my work for later.

Edit- forgot to mention that I used gray silicon instead of gasket as the carb will need to be sealed with the robin spacer.

I have some problems with the throtle cable of my kart... which does not have a ball end... I have some bike parts and found a piece of metal in which you apply preasure with pliers and it will atach to the cable end. will that work ?


Edit- I got it all setup, but do not have gasoline to turn it up today. Could comeone tell me by the pictures if the carb line that comes from the bowl can be conected to the one from the motor?
 

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jamyers

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Looking good! Prolly don't need the silicone with an oring on the carb as long as the oring contacts all the way around. (Plus gas eats silicone over time.)

That hose coming from the bottom of the carb on the right is the bowl drain, no need to connect it to anything.

Can't wait to hear how it runs!
 

Najuto9tail

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Looking good! Prolly don't need the silicone with an oring on the carb as long as the oring contacts all the way around. (Plus gas eats silicone over time.)

That hose coming from the bottom of the carb on the right is the bowl drain, no need to connect it to anything.

Can't wait to hear how it runs!
Ok, so I should leave those two lines alone and not have them connected together. Lol is that it looked nice together do not know why... I will get the carb filter on monday at the mail. Can not wait to get it and install it. And try out my kart with the new carb and no governor on it.

If I have problems with the carb what I will need to do is adjust the air screw on the side? it has two... which are nedles.
 

jamyers

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I *believe* that the screw closest to the engine is the idle mixture screw. The one right beside the slide is usually the idle speed, you can confirm this by seeing if it moves the slide up and down as it moves in and out.
 

Najuto9tail

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I *believe* that the screw closest to the engine is the idle mixture screw. The one right beside the slide is usually the idle speed, you can confirm this by seeing if it moves the slide up and down as it moves in and out.
So thats why it stays up a little and the throtle cable end which touches the bottom of the intake of carb does not let it sit completely will this be a problem? if so I may need to fix it or something.
 

jamyers

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Ive never had one of those exact carbs to look at, But im pretty sure the throttle cable end shouldn't be touching the carb bore - isn't there a recess in the slide for the cable end to fit into?

I do know that the slide sits on the tapered end of the idle speed screw.

You might google that carb and look for a tuning manual, exploded view, etc
 

Najuto9tail

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Ive never had one of those exact carbs to look at, But im pretty sure the throttle cable end shouldn't be touching the carb bore - isn't there a recess in the slide for the cable end to fit into?

I do know that the slide sits on the tapered end of the idle speed screw.

You might google that carb and look for a tuning manual, exploded view, etc

I cutted the cable end a little with a dremel disk... because I used the original throtle cable and added a piece of metal which brake kits for bikes comes with for the cables. Which worked to grab the slide from the carb. I have seen the throtle cables which have a ball end which seems bigger than what I used so it should not be a problem.

What I do not know if the carb will need to be rejetted. I compared the jets hole size with robins carb and they look identical... or the difference can not be seen by human eye?

A CT70 will have a No. 58 main jet is this ok? having a bigger jet is bad?

How to Adjust the Carburetor on a 1970 Honda Trail | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_12225123_adjust-carburetor-1970-honda-trail.html#ixzz2NCEgHal7

Well I will get the carb filter tomorrow and I will get some gasoline to try to start the engine... The engine has new oil 10w-30, no governor, new spark plug, new carb. I have not tried to start it. Will take a video of it tomorrow if it turns on.
 
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