I need a new Carburetor ( Robin Subaru 6.5hp)

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Najuto9tail

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Robin Subaru 6.5hp Got a New Carb and it works.

Hey guys could someone let me know of a cheap replacement carburetor that could fit a robin subaru 6.5hp engine?
The engine turns on but it would not stay on... the carburetor is broke because I tried to remove a screw and forced it and broke the screew with everything... Carb was giving me problems anyway...

I had a old thread about this engine: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=20136

I had measured the carb incorectly, the sizes are: 20mm for the inside intake, 42mm center of bolt to bolt spacing.
 

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Doc Sprocket

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Honestly, there's a good chance that nobody answered because nobody has a black-and-white answer. While the carb you are looking at could maybe be adapted to fit, and re-jetted to work, there's a lot of trial and error involved. I'm guessing you don't want to put multiple hours into seeing if you can make it work for you.

You want black-and-white? Hit up your local OPE shop, or EvilBay, and get a OEM replacement carb. Bolt and Go.
 

Najuto9tail

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OK, Sorry

Sorry, well I did not sold my kart. I still have it on my house. Have not manage to find a replacement carburetor. I measured the bolt to bolt spacing with a ruler and it gave me 41-42mm center to center of each bolt hole and 48mm in total of the side of bolt hole to the other side. the intake size is 20mm. the carb is a mikuni 27X-623XX-XX. I know but I want to use a carb like the pitbike use which the cable is conected directly to it. I removed the governor and the leveler and replaced it with a screw and a nut.

I need help, I want a cheap carburetor not a 90$ carb. because for $100 I could buy a honda clone engine. Mikuni are to expensive.
 

Najuto9tail

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Why not get a new engine and forget about the current one?
I might end up doing this because it is so hard to find a replacement carb for this engine... All carburetors I find are 48mm bolt to bolt...

What type of engine do you recomend? Are the predator engines good?
 

mckutzy

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I have no experience with the predator motors(someone will chime in soon),(I have a champion) but I would say something that is easily accepting of the major accessories for modification(AFAIK) there are some motors that wont accept some parts due to slightly different specs of the clones.

But something cheap and brand new would be about the best deal off hand, the US has got some good deals at the harbor freight, like you said for about $100 new for a clone.
 

r97

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The Robin Subaru engines are very high quality pieces of equipment. If you're interested, read up on them here. I'll admit I'm a bit of a Robin Subaru nut, but if it were me I wouldn't even have to think about this decision. Unless you're planning to highly modify this engine (parts like high performance cams are not yet available), you should just get a new OEM carburetor. I'm sure that a direct throttle linkage could be made if that is what you want to do.

Parts manual,
http://www.robinamerica.com/media/manuals/128980991381971250.pdf

You will need one of the following:

277-62301-30 for foam air filter models
277-62302-30 for dual element air filter models
277-62304-40 for low profile air filter models
277-62303-20 for cyclone pre-cleaner models

You should be able to get any of those from m-and-dmower.com, jackssmallengines.com, or ebay.com.
 

r97

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I stand corrected. That is great that something like that is available! I agree, the ex21 is better suited to be modified. Of course you could also just get a kx21 right off the bat.
 

Najuto9tail

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Thank you all for the replies, yes many people have told me to not give up on the robin subaru because it is one of the best motors out there. And I must say that it does gives awesome power. I will try to fix it instead of buying a cheap china made motor. Thank you for the reference for parts, mine is a foam air filter model but I removed the filter because it got descomposed and it got the carb dirty inside, I mess with the carb, broke a screw with the hole and stuff... and now I am looking for a carb that will work with it. I want to confirm is someone knows... why does pitbike carbs measure 48mm and this motor measures 42mm?

It seems the carb is now being replace for 277-62301-50. It cost around $100. :/
 

jamyers

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Interesting! No telling if the jets are interchangeable without having them in hand, afaik.

Note that that's a "slide carb" where the throttle cable hooks directly to the carb - which means that without some fancy mods it won't work with the governor, it'll bypass it (meaning you should open up the Robin and remove the governor parts). Which is all doable, and I wouldn't worry about over-revving and damaging a Robin unless you do it EVERY time you ride, and even then the valve springs will limit the rpm (not that valve float is ok, but...)

For $25 I'd give it a shot as is, then gut the gov. And rejet if needed if you like it.
 

slipknot23

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Solo,
Easy to remove the governor - disconnect the governor arm from the top of the engine - OR

1. Remove the side cover no gasket required except for "gray silicone" to re-assemble.

2. Notice on the side cover you'll see a hole where the governor shaft is visible, take a drift punch and remove the entire governor unit this way you don't destroy it.

3. to close that hole take a 1/4X20 tap and run it down into the hole "DO NOT" tap completely threw - use a small set 1/4X20 set screw coat it with some grey silicone tighten the set screw but DO NOT go all the way threw - buy not tapping the hole completely threw the set screw acts as plug that’s all.

4. Now you can either leave the governor arm in place or do the same as mentioned above - remove - and plug

5. WARRNING!!!!!!!!!!!!! the stock flywheel magnet on EX13-21 should not exceed 6000 rpm - remember these engines are built for heavy industrial usage rated at 4500rpm. Over revving past the mentioned zone in time will peel the magnet off the flywheel and do damage to the coil -
 

Najuto9tail

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Thanks guys, I already removed the governor completely and the arm replaced it with a screw and a nut. Used gray silicone to seal the engine back together. That is why I want the slide carb as jamyers mentioned. I will let you know when I get it and what type of modifications is needed to use that carb. What I see is that I will have to make some space for the carb to fit into place as the screws for original carb are really close to a side of the engine where the flywheel cover will have to see if i need to cut somepart of. Also the screws for adapting the carb are larger does this come out? Or could I cut them with a dremel tool?
I have read that when doing modifications it is recomended to change the factory exhaust... Is it necesary? I noticed that mine is a tube inside a box with no spark arrestor... My brother said to me that I should use a pipe that could be screwed on the hole.
 

Doc Sprocket

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Any time an engine can breathe better, it will perform better. So, go ahead and put on another exhaust system.

Regarding the carb screws being too long- I have not worked on a Subaru, but I think I know what you are talking about. If there are no heads on them for a wrench, then they are studs. To remove a stud, thread TWO nuts on, and then tighten the two nuts very tight to each other so they jam together. Then, put a wrench on the nut that is closer to the engine and attempt to loosen it. The whole stud will unscrew.
 

Najuto9tail

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Any time an engine can breathe better, it will perform better. So, go ahead and put on another exhaust system.

Regarding the carb screws being too long- I have not worked on a Subaru, but I think I know what you are talking about. If there are no heads on them for a wrench, then they are studs. To remove a stud, thread TWO nuts on, and then tighten the two nuts very tight to each other so they jam together. Then, put a wrench on the nut that is closer to the engine and attempt to loosen it. The whole stud will unscrew.
They are studs and one of them got even more deep as it got more screwed in. I will have to force them out. But as it got more screwed in it will move way out. I get it since the nut closer to the engine gets stuck with the other one it will force it out. :)
The carb: Brand New JAPAN CARB WITH 1 5/8" OR 42MM on center mounting holes. Manual choke and built-in fuel shut off valves. THIS CARB IS A RIGHT HAND CHOKE WITH THE 2 INLETS. ON-OFF-RESERVE.Jets are replaceable. Fits: Honda CT-70, HONDA PASSPORT, HONDA CUB, HONDA SL, DAX AND All*72CC to 110cc China made AND Honda Engines.
 

Najuto9tail

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Hey guys, I got the studs out using a locking plier and twisting the screws until they bend and made them rotate and come out. I used a wire brush to clean all the grease and dirt of motor and gave the motor a fresh coat of engine enamel and chrome paint it has its details but it looks nice... I am now waiting to get my carb and try it out. Also an other thing I was using sae 40w oil and it seems this motors are made for 10w-30... is this correct? I know that the smaller the w number the more liquid the oil. What efects does this have?
Other question I have if someone could help me. Where can I find a 19mm hole 42mm bolt to bolt seal or spacer.
 

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